On Friday, rather than having a bit of a lie in and catching
up on sleep, we instead awoke an extra hour early to be collected by 5:10 am as
part Hazem’s very tightly coordinated schedule of collecting everyone at designated
times on both the east and west banks. Amazingly, all were at their points
close enough to time so that we met Hazem’s demanding schedule and were leaving
Luxor for the desert road around 6 am! Thanks to the fact that we were travelling
with our Egyptian students we were able to take the shorter desert route, which
is ordinarily forbidden to foreigners, and reduces the journey to Abydos by at least
an hour. A third of the way into the journey, Sayed opened up the snack box,
and juices and chocolate biscuits were disseminated through the bus. Those who
had been able to get a few winks of sleep prior to this, were the lucky ones,
because now everyone was wide awake! Thanks to the desert route we arrived via
the back way to Abydos, meandering through the cemeteries on the edge of the
settlement, and though the driver had no idea where we were going, thanks to
Yaser’s local knowledge we did not get lost! Amazingly, we could soon see the
back of the temple and rounded the great court to reach the small Egyptian café
where we had eaten breakfast a year ago. It was a kind of time warp, as all
seemed unchanged, with our table waiting, and within minutes we had spread out
and fully occupied the café’s streetside terrace. Orders were quickly placed
and the food began to appear as if by magic, though seeing as we were so many
the food tended to appear in fits and starts, with the head of the table doing
far better out of the arrangement. But all eventually had fuul mixed with zibda
(butter), salat, the local specialty of omelets fried in metal bowls and still sizzling
when they came to the table, bread, and of course the infamous mish made its
appearance. As previously, there was not enough bread, and cries of “aish tani”
(more bread) rang repeatedly, particularly from the end of the table, who continually
seemed to have not enough food. Bread had to be sent for from a nearby bakery,
and needless to say by the time it arrived we had already drunk our post-meal
tea and coffee and were heading out, piling back into the bus and making our
way to the temple of Ramesses II. It was decided that since the temple is
mostly open to the air, to visit it first in the cool of the day, and to save
the larger Seti I temple, for the most part roofed, for last.
The view of the Seti I Temple from breakfast
After a drive of a matter of minutes, we were dropped in
front of the temple, and the floor so to speak was handed to Yaser to give an introduction
to the temple in Arabic to the students. We are truly fortunate to have Yaser,
as he is able to speak knowledgably about the site of Abydos as he has known
and loved it for his entire professional life, and he clearly communicates his
passion and enthusiasm whenever he talks about any aspect of Abydos and its
history. He moved the students through the temple, recounting its architectural
history, and seamlessly passing them to Hassan Ramadan, who then gave an
explanation of the digital epigraphy that he had employed while recording the
temple. Hassan made excellent use of one of the carved and painted rear rooms
to not only demonstrate but describe the different digital approaches one might
take to record what was a very complicated wall. Our students did us proud by
not only listening intently and taking notes, but also peppering Hassan with
questions which led to even further dialogue and discussions. Although not
fully understanding the Arabic, we felt that it had turned into a truly
excellent teaching experience. And unbelievably it took nearly an hour before our
students had run out of questions! At that point, the local inspector Hazem
Salah, an old friend and former student of Will’s, joined us for the remainder
of the tour, which facilitated access to parts of the site normally closed to
the public. We were now able to take a short cut across the desert to reach the
back of the Seti temple, and particularly the Osirieon. As with the Ramesses II
temple, Yaser and also Hazem Salah introduced the students to the importance of
the Osirieon and its relationship to the temple itself. Following their excellent
presentation, the men needed to go to the mosque for Friday prayer, leaving the
rest, including Will and JJ, to then spend some extra time in the Seti temple
to explore and enjoy the deep cool shade created by the vaulted chapels at the rear
of the temple.
After prayers, the group reformed in the Seti temple, with
Hazem Saleh giving an impromptu tour of the temple for our students. And by
1pm, on schedule, we were able to again leave by the back of the temple to take
the short cut across the desert to he small home and restaurant near the
Ramesses II temple where we would have lunch. Those of you who remember our
blog about Abydos from last year, will not be surprised that we returned to the
same venue where we had had such a wonderful meal before and had proved such a
pleasant place for our students to relax after their epigraphic exertions! The
food was forthcoming almost immediately, though it took us some time to figure
out our seating arrangements, which somehow reverted to a boys table, and a
girls table (we just cant win!). Lentil soup was followed by mounds of rice,
chicken, homemade kofta, and vegetable tagines, and as before the meal was
rounded off by the legendary Abydene bananas, which though small truly are the
most delicious bananas in Egypt!
Yaser and Abydos Inspector Hazem Saleh
Group photo on the steps at the rear of the Seti I Temple
Hazem Saleh talking to the students about the temple
Abydene Banana!
Will and Hassan Ramadan
This occasion was somewhat different than in the past because
it was to be our last meal with two of our students, Rasha and Alaa Talaat who
we were leaving in Abydos to join the American mission directed by Dr. Janet
Richards. Seeing as they would not be able to join us for graduation, we
brought graduation to them, presenting them with the personal drawing boards and
gift mugs, as you will remember we did earlier in the season for Ahmed ElNasseh
when he likewise had to leave us for pastures anew. As with Ahmed joining a
French excavation in Saudi Arabia, working with Janet would be an excellent
opportunity for Alaa Talaat and Rasha to gain additional epigraphic experience,
and it was also a reunion of sorts for JJ, who had cut her teeth some 20 years
ago working with Janet at Abydos. When the car carrying Janet arrived at the restaurant,
it was a wonderful reunion, as not only did Janet come, but also the Abydos
house manager Ahmed Ragab and one of the house staff, Sinjab, whom JJ had not
seen in many years. Much time was spent chatting and catching up, and of course
introducing Janet to our team and our students, some of whom, like Yaser, she
knew very well. But eventually it was time to leave, and after the usual
lengthy and emotional Egyptian farewells, our students piled into the bus
bidding Alaa Talaat and Rasha goodbye, and wishing them luck in their work at
Abydos. As we drove off in one direction, they drive off in the opposite heading
up the wadi to the American dig house.
Unfortunately, now that our presence was well known at the
temple, we were provided with a military escort back through the city of Baliana,
and it was some time before we could return to the desert road to make our
journey home to Luxor. Despite the long day, or perhaps because of it, our students
found unexpected reserves of energy for an unbelievably boisterous journey
back, with much hilarity originating in the back of the bus (no surprise
there). By the time we reached Luxor, dusk and then night had settled over the
west as we recognized familiar landmarks, and one-by-one our students were deposited
by the side of the road to make their way to their various homes. It was nearly
6pm by the time Hassan Ramadan departed and Will and JJ were returned to their
flat, with Hazem handling the cleaning and returning of the bus. A long but
successful day with the realization that we all had to be up early again the next
morning to return to work. Unbelievably the long anticipated field trip was now
a pleasant memory.
