tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-48845324318543483872024-03-04T21:39:26.584-08:00Theban Tomb 110 Epigraphy & Research Field SchoolUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-19845640915187416102018-11-23T10:29:00.000-08:002018-12-03T10:50:47.063-08:00Graduation Ceremony, take 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As in previous years, the graduation ceremony was scheduled
to take place in the garden of Sheikh Ali, and once again we were given the privilege
of taking over practically the entire restaurant to stage our ceremony. We were
particularly pleased to learn that both Alaa Talaat and Rasha would be able to
take some time away from Abydos so that they could join us and receive their
certificates, and it was wonderful to have a chance for the whole group to be together
again. We were also happy to see not only our West and East Bank Inspectors Atito, with his young
daughter, and Khadija, but also the full complement from the west bank teftish,
including Fathy Yassin, Ramadan Ahmed, and Ezzeldeen El-Noby. Although we have had
members of the teftish join us in the past, it was marvelous this year that they
all came together to acknowledge the school as well as the success of the individual
students, who of course are inspectors themselves.<br />
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<b>Atito and his daughter</b></div>
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Having learnt in previous years not to linger, because dusk
was falling, we began the ceremony straight away with Sayed announcing the
names, Fathy giving the certificates to the students, Ramadan and Ezz shaking hands,
Yaser and Hassan handing out drawing boards, JJ and Will presenting mugs, and
Hazem handing out t-shirts – a real group <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">endeavor! Even JJ's youngest son Declan, our budding archaeologist, joined the receiving line, seated at Ezz</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">’s</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 107%;"> feet. Despite </span>our best efforts,
and perhaps because there were so many of us, the ceremony was completed in the
dark, with the final graduation photo being taken in the pitch black. Even so,
Marco was able to get an amazing image of all of us by lamplight.<br />
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<b>Final Graduation Photo</b></div>
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Once the group photo was finished, everyone returned to
their tables, spreading out over the restaurant, to enjoy the mixed grill, salat,
and aish being provided by the restaurant, along with various beverages. The
highlight of the meal was the famous Sheikh Ali kofta, which seemed to
disappear by the platterful as soon as it appeared! The groups mixed and changed
their configurations over the course of the evening, as has happened in the past,
with the children all running about. This year, a particular feature was having
JJ’s family and children join in to share in the event, meeting not only the members
of the teftish, but also the students and their families. Mr. Will was
particularly pleased to see the evening meal concluding with basbousa, and the
students knowing his partiality managed to gather an entire plate to present to
him at the end of the dinner!<br />
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<b>Mr. Will receiving his honorary basbousa</b></div>
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At the end of a long and wonderful evening, after the inevitable
goodbyes, as in the past, we all piled into a variety of minibuses which took, it
seemed, more than 30 min to depart. Everyone kept running off to say more goodbye,
and as the doors finally closed there were still shouts and laughter between
the minibuses before they separated to take the west bank families home, and
the rest to the ferry landing so they could head back east. And once again emotional
goodbyes as we all were reminded of the reality that we were saying good bye
for the last time, and come the morning there would be no early boat trips
west, second breakfasts, or group photos (alhamdulillah).<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Xavier reading on the wall at Sheikh Ali </b><b>while the sun sets</b></div>
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Unbelievably, like the Bedouins in the desert, all the tents
were taken down and by Friday morning all were embarking on their various
journeys home. Hassan to Berlin, Marco to Florence, Will to London, and JJ and
her family first to Cairo for a few days and then Philadelphia. Leaving an
extraordinary memory of an amazing school and a wonderful group of students to
take home with us.</div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-90330514211706823202018-11-23T09:11:00.000-08:002018-12-03T10:50:56.760-08:00Field School Week 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Those of you who have been following the blog may have
noticed that there has been a slight interruption in publishing the events of
the 5th, and last, week of the field school. We apologize! But as you can image
with JJ’s family arriving events overwhelmed us, and Friday was the last
opportunity to keep up-to-date, so that reporting on the subsequent week and
graduation has been delayed until now.</div>
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JJ spent the remainder of Friday with her family at Hazem’s,
and Will spent the morning working at Chicago House and then partook of the
lunch, having to eat JJ’s share of the koshari, as well as his own! Will spent
the afternoon with Marco going over the RTI photographs that Marco had taken
and discussing the remaining plan for the photographic work. In the early
evening we re-joined and JJ and Will played tour guides for the family and
Marco at the Luxor Museum. After the museum, all that culture demanded that we
de-camp to an ice cream place with a magnificent view of Luxor Temple so that
everyone could indulge in shakes, coffees, and colas. The hit of the evening
was the strawberry frappe, which the adults were amazed was actually made of
strawberries, and not syrup! After drinks were had, we headed over to visit the
illuminated Luxor Temple after dark, where, for whatever reason, Hazem, Sayed
and Marco obsessed about who was the tallest, and demanded a photo be taken in
order to document the event. Though in fact Marco cheated a bit by standing on
his tip-toes, so the result was invalidated! This gives you some idea of the
silliness that had begun to overtake the project. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>View of Luxor Temple from Aboudy Cafe</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKyJ0KF7Z94ml8RjowUKznxw1PQlcF6ihBzCALoqqn00_AFqqs53HVC6lNHxqdaFIEymSgSIyO624yJ57mE5cNxPubL-BvR4xmQWZVPrIyPEvpQPadhCosbETqvYc3dnao_SuRtkXyNN9C/s1600/IMG_0230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKyJ0KF7Z94ml8RjowUKznxw1PQlcF6ihBzCALoqqn00_AFqqs53HVC6lNHxqdaFIEymSgSIyO624yJ57mE5cNxPubL-BvR4xmQWZVPrIyPEvpQPadhCosbETqvYc3dnao_SuRtkXyNN9C/s640/IMG_0230.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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On Saturday, while Hassan resumed teaching at the lab, Will
went with Marco and Hazem to TT110 to continue photographing in the tomb, and
JJ took her family on a trip to Aswan for 3 days. With that day’s completed
work, Will and Marco were free to join JJ and her family in Aswan a day later, for
an end-of-season trip to Abu Simbel. The afternoon was spent at Hazem’s with a
meal provided by his mother for all the boys: Will, Marco, Hassan, Sayed, and
Hazem. It was a lovely opportunity for them all to get together over a working
meal before Marco and Will left the next morning on the train to Aswan. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf4GIQnGgPyNnosmosP5gw81SEDDSMNKVghF-r4uCEB0Kueef58OsNRjlin91Mz5jqQeZTb6sUIbRnTnN1WK5_VzZPfrLUI1X07l2cdxxvoKAZtx1qNwC9DfbvjtYzwT-pXHzmHXm4xufe/s1600/47177820_491087737963768_7501342407472971776_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1193" data-original-width="1600" height="297" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf4GIQnGgPyNnosmosP5gw81SEDDSMNKVghF-r4uCEB0Kueef58OsNRjlin91Mz5jqQeZTb6sUIbRnTnN1WK5_VzZPfrLUI1X07l2cdxxvoKAZtx1qNwC9DfbvjtYzwT-pXHzmHXm4xufe/s400/47177820_491087737963768_7501342407472971776_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>The TT110 Team heading west, minus Mudira</b></div>
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On Sunday, Will and Marco broke their journey in Kom Ombo on
the way to Aswan which allowed them to meet Will’s old friend Ana Tavares, but
also our former student Sayed el-Rekaby who has been working on the de-watering
project and currently is the inspector for the Austrian mission working at the
Kom Ombo tell. Sayed did us a proud by giving an excellent and insightful tour
of his work as well as the temple’s archaeological history.</div>
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Over the next several days Hassan carried on teaching the
students digital epigraphy, with Yaser joining forces on Monday to provide a
session on digitizing object and pottery drawings. Hassan was also able to
bring the students out of the lab for a really useful exercise in the
blockyard, showing them something of the epigraphic problems they would
encounter when trying to digitally draw from photographs. It allowed the
students to truly appreciate the difficulties of working directly from photos
of large-scale relief blocks. <o:p></o:p></div>
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On Monday the Aswan group spent several hours touring the
fabulous temples of Abu Simbel, leaving just enough time after our return to
Aswan for the guys to see the Old Kingdom town and Ptolemaic temple on
Elephantine, whereas Marco and Will slipped into the Nubian Museum, and JJ and
the little ones relaxed poolside, before needing to head to the train station
to catch the train back to Luxor. Various and sundry adventures were had in
order not to miss the return train, which included convoluted taxi rides,
joining the parade for the prophet Mohammed’s birthday, and commandeering a
horse carriage. Unbelievably all three parties met in the tumult which was the
Aswan railway station with 10 minutes to spare in order to find the correct
carriage on the correct train going the correct direction!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>In the midst of the parade</b></div>
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Safely back in Luxor, on Tuesday Marco, Will, and Hazem
resumed photography in the tomb, awaiting JJ and her family. Arriving just before
breakfast, in classic Egyptian fashion, JJ took the opportunity to give her
family a tour of the work in TT 110, after which we could all take a break and
introduce the family to the joys of tamayya, fuul, eggs, potatoes, aubergine,
and karkaday tea. A delicious meal, and our last on the west, was had by all!
While Marco and Will went back to work, Hazem, JJ, and her family were last
seen making their way over the ridge heading down into the valley of Deir
el-Bahari, madly coating themselves with sunscreen, since visiting Deir el-Bahari in the afternoon is not recommended! It has to be one of the hottest
places on earth, or at least it feels like it. Marco magically finished the
last photographic detail for JJ literally with minutes to spare so that he and
Will were able to call it a wrap at exactly 1pm! Marco admitted that now that
he’s taken on American punctuality, he might not be allowed back in Italy, or
at least his friends will tease him for always being on time.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Later in the afternoon, at 4pm, everyone re-grouped at the
ferry for a planned sunset boat ride on the Nile as a kind of thank you on
behalf of JJ to the staff and their families, giving them an opportunity to
meet her family. Sayed and his family, Yaser and his family, Hassan, Hazem, JJ
and her family, as well as Will and Marco all crowded onto the boat to enjoy
pastries and beverages, and we all settled in for a lovely cruise up to the
infamous “Banana Island”, turning to make our journey back as dusk fell. The
kids all had a riot, playing games, and eventually ending up on the roof of the
boat, nearly giving all the parents heart failure. But, fortunately, the gods
were smiling and all of the children returned safely to their parents’ arms by
the end of the evening. In fact, the evening had been so pleasurable and the
children had all had so much fun, the grown-ups decided why call it a night.
So, although Sayed and his family had to return home, Yaser and his family were
able to join us for dinner at Pizza Roma. Piling into several taxis, when we reached
Pizza Roma we virtually took over the entire restaurant! But, Pizza Roma rose
to the challenge and we all were able to sit between 2 tables, though this did
not stop the children from roaming about, playing, and sharing their pizzas. As
became clear, all children everywhere love pizza! <o:p></o:p></div>
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Although Tuesday evening felt celebratory, it was not
actually the end of the field school – we still had one more day! On Wednesday
Hassan provided the individual evaluations of each of the students at Karnak
Lab, where Will and Marco joined him. Meanwhile JJ and her family toured
through Karnak for the morning, re-joining the field school for, you guessed
it, second breakfast! This time instead of the usual fare we had a special
final breakfast of fatir with sugar cane molasses, tahina, honey, and gibna
abyad spread out over the table so that all could share. Yet another Egyptian
delicacy and tradition JJ was able to introduce to her family – tearing off
pieces of the flaky bread and dipping them into the various condiments, and
finding that it was almost impossible to stop eating! Meanwhile, unbeknownst to
JJ, her youngest son Declan had begun to excavate underneath the table,
removing his shoes (but for some reason not his socks!) in order to get a
better feel of the Egyptian earth, thus showing himself to be a budding “dirt”
archaeologist. A real chip off the old block You will not be surprised to hear
that after breakfast group photos were required, so the students and teachers posed
outside the Lab for some final shots. Once this was done, JJ’s family was
invited to join in for a few more photos.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOU0aCTNQHIWys8bmfVzni6bTtAbe-2UCBr7Sf8GYBZ4UpULOtOLBE6XXncCETRc_BySbz_8J_XNemn9Lkb2bm3Psy6ZtegzWOf1Og_5nfDafQWezqglkBfq7gW7SvWWZgU6-MUJ0AYT1e/s1600/IMG_7200.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="1600" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOU0aCTNQHIWys8bmfVzni6bTtAbe-2UCBr7Sf8GYBZ4UpULOtOLBE6XXncCETRc_BySbz_8J_XNemn9Lkb2bm3Psy6ZtegzWOf1Og_5nfDafQWezqglkBfq7gW7SvWWZgU6-MUJ0AYT1e/s640/IMG_7200.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hassan having, amazingly, kept strictly to schedule, after
the breakfast and photos there was plenty of time for the students to return to
their homes to get ready for the graduation celebration which was scheduled for
the same evening at Sheikh Ali / Marsam. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Seeing as the graduation ceremony involves so many photos,
we will provide an additional blog entry to document this event, so stay tuned
for the graduation ceremony celebrations!<o:p></o:p></div>
<br /></div>
Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-71142349123772362632018-11-16T00:41:00.002-08:002018-11-29T05:58:27.537-08:00Field School Week 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On Saturday morning, Will and JJ awoke to find a message
from Alaa Talaat and Rasha, along with a photo of their first morning tea at
Abydos. We were delighted to see they were using the mugs we had given them the
day before. In fact, when we checked the time of the message, we realized we had
been having our morning coffee at the same time!</div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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Marco Repole, our Italian photographer from last year,
returned to Luxor on Friday night to continue his photographic program in TT
110. So, on Saturday morning, after finishing our coffee, we picked Marco and
Hassan up from their hotel and all went together to Karnak so we could introduce
Marco to the new group of students. After teas, coffees, and introductions, we
left Hassan to get on with the digital epigraphy teaching, and took Marco by
boat across to the west and TT 110. We spent the remainder of the work day
going through TT 110 with Marco, discussing the photography he would be doing
and the plan for his work to make high resolution RTI (Resolution Transfer
Image) photographs of the blackened walls from which we would try and tease out
the images and inscriptions still covered by soot. Marco, with Hazem’s help,
began a series of test photos, and we left with plans in place for the rest of
the week. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Marco's delight at being back at TT 110</b></div>
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On the boat journey back across the Nile, we mentioned ot
Marco that we were invited for an opening of a new art gallery on the West Bank
at 5pm, as well as dinner afterwards at Pizza Roma with colleagues we had
bumped into at Karnak the previous week. He was more than welcome to join us,
though we explained that this was not a typical work day, and we did not usually
have gallery openings and dinner dates on a regular basis. In fact, the gallery
opening was an extraordinary event and would be an opportunity of seeing many friends
and colleagues, as well as a variety of artworks created by Egyptian and
foreign artists based in Luxor. So, at 5pm we, along with Marco, joined a group
crossing the Nile from Chicago House to see the exhibition, which as you can imagine
was a lovely way to arrive at an opening. There was food and traditional music,
as well as amazing paintings in variety of styles and mediums, including oil,
watercolor, prints, engravings, and also wood sculpture. We were even able to
speak to many of the artists whose work we particularly admired! Below are some
of our favorites, and if you’d like to see more, check out their website:
<a href="http://luxorartgallery.com/">luxorartgallery.com</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Wael Nour</b></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbeaxhYRoC5TY71p99sFOpxy87qnvaoUeHOg-UsKq_KEtymHXVHGSDnuXsdYUXcnjcSAvnw-jQFtQ_Oc3PQXazfqGlSPoMaQO449CIe1r4LCyBhln_9qLYFkLWrSXRX6i-_KiAVkxe8WS/s1600/reed+mat.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbeaxhYRoC5TY71p99sFOpxy87qnvaoUeHOg-UsKq_KEtymHXVHGSDnuXsdYUXcnjcSAvnw-jQFtQ_Oc3PQXazfqGlSPoMaQO449CIe1r4LCyBhln_9qLYFkLWrSXRX6i-_KiAVkxe8WS/s400/reed+mat.jpg" width="288" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Manal Shuaib</b></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Aliaa El-Tayeb</b></div>
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We left slightly later than the Chicago House group, so had
to find our own back across the river, but we were fortunate to hop onto a
leaving motorboat only to find an Egyptian friend, Mina Megally, whom JJ had
met at the Halloween party and seen momentarily at the opening, already seated
on the boat! Seeing as we didn’t have any small money, he kindly stood us the
cost of the fare. A real gent! Back on the east, Ayman collected us from the
ferry landing and off we went to Pizza Roma, unbelievably dead on time. We had
no sooner sat down than in walked the Karnak crowd: Bettina, Aurelia, and Maria,
all ceramicists working on the pottery from Karnak. Maria we had only just met,
but both Aurelia and Bettina were, guess what, old friends of Will’s, of
course! As we were finishing up our delicious pasta and pizza dishes, who
should walk in but the project director, Angus Graham, a delightful Scotsman,
even down to the twinkle in his eye! Having found one another, promises were exchanged
to try and fit in a shisha or a beer before both of our seasons ended.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sunday found our small group of Will, JJ, Marco and Hazem back
on the west at TT 110, while our students continued at Karnak with Hassan and
Sayed. The end of season dinner at Lantern with Keli and Jen was scheduled for
the evening, and while unfortunately Jen was unwell, we went anyway! Hopefully
there will be another opportunity of catching up with Jen before the end of the
season. Monday we had arranged in the morning to have both Marco and Hazem stop
by the flat first thing, in order to evaluate the sample RTI photos Marco had
taken, so that we could be sure they would prove useful for further digital
epigraphy work. The results were amazing, with Will and JJ oohing, aahing, and exclaiming,
and gave us both hope that results could be achieved via this technology. Full
of renewed optimism, we headed back to TT 110 to look once again at the
blackened walls in light of Marco’s photographic discoveries. While Marco, with
Hazem as his assistant, set to work photographing one wall, Will and JJ began
making hand-copies of another, with the idea being that these, in conjunction
with Marco’s images, would enable us to digitally record the painted scenes.
That evening all four of us celebrated the day’s work with shisha and beers at
the Sunset Cocktail floating bar on the east bank of the Nile, directly across
from the Etap Hotel.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On Tuesday, the work continued much as it had the day
before, except that Will and JJ, rather than continuing their hand copies, were
instead engaged in creating video footage for the ARCE website. Meg Martin, ARCE
Communications & Outreach Manager, and Dana Smillie,<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>ARCE Filmographer, intervidewed Will and JJ, asking us to explain the
history of epigraphic work generally, speak about the historical context of the
mid-18<sup>th</sup> Dynasty and reigns of Hatshepsut and Thutmose III, and the
placement of TT 110 and its owner Djhuty within this, and discuss our field
school work. We spent a long day at the tomb, and afterwards Will, JJ, and Marco
joined Hazem’s family for a late lunch at their home, including of course mashi,
which Omm Hazem knows we prefer over all of her other excellent offerings! It
was an opportunity also to introduce Marco to mulakhaiya, which he had not as
yet tasted, explaining that this was a traditional, homemade Egyptian delicacy.
He liked it instantaneously, covering not only his rice, but also his chicken
in it! Marco is becoming more Egyptian by the day …<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wednesday found the entire group back on the west bank at
TT110. It felt like “old home week”, with all of our students together again
with us, if only for the day. We collected Hilary McDonald and Owen Murray, who
once again agreed to teach our students methods for photographing walls and
objects using targets that would enable them to run the photos through the Photoscan
program and create rectified images usable for digital epigraphy. Marco, as
last year, assisted them with the teaching, and we split the students into
groups of 3 in order to facilitate teaching the use of targets both in the tomb
and with objects. ARCE made a re-appearance, this time focusing on interviewing
both Hazem and Sayed, who talked about their work for the field school and its importance
for the training of Egyptian inspectors. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Marco and the boys in the back of the bus</b></div>
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<b>Hilary and Owen teaching at the tent</b></div>
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<b>Measuring between the photography targets</b> </div>
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<b>Object photography for photogrammetry</b></div>
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On Thursday the students returned to Karnak, along with Hilary,
Owen, Marco, Hazem, and Sayed, in order to work in the lab teaching the
students to run their photographs through Photoscan, leaving only JJ and Will to
go to the west. We spent the day completing hand copies of the north wall of
the passage, finishing in time to meet the rest of the staff at Marsam for our
Thursday staff meeting. Since for the previous week the school had been broken
up into so many components it was a good opportunity for Hassan, Sayed, Yaser, Marco,
Hilary, and Owen, to explain what they all had been doing and give their impressions
of how well the students were understanding and progressing. This was
particularly important for JJ and Will who had been only on the west all week,
and for Yaser whose Scientific Center photographer had joined us over the last
two days to obtain some additional photographic training. What was a relaxing
as well as useful time in the Sheikh Ali garden had to be shortened somewhat when
JJ realized that her family was soon to arrive at the Luxor airport and she
needed to be there to welcome them. We all piled back into the bus and headed
east to be met by Ayman and a second taxi and, after dropping of Marco and
Hassan, make our way to the airport alatool. Thankfully everyone arrived happy,
if tired, and with all their luggage, and were shepherded through customs by
Hazem’s sister Ahlam who works there, and her colleagues. Excited and happy
reunions were had, and after a feast laid out by Omm Hazem, everyone quickly
dropped off to sleep. Declan didn’t even make it into his bed!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Working with Photoscan at Karnak Lab</b> </div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-57769182726216609252018-11-11T06:15:00.001-08:002018-11-14T11:20:41.943-08:00Abydos Field Trip, Take 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On Friday, rather than having a bit of a lie in and catching
up on sleep, we instead awoke an extra hour early to be collected by 5:10 am as
part Hazem’s very tightly coordinated schedule of collecting everyone at designated
times on both the east and west banks. Amazingly, all were at their points
close enough to time so that we met Hazem’s demanding schedule and were leaving
Luxor for the desert road around 6 am! Thanks to the fact that we were travelling
with our Egyptian students we were able to take the shorter desert route, which
is ordinarily forbidden to foreigners, and reduces the journey to Abydos by at least
an hour. A third of the way into the journey, Sayed opened up the snack box,
and juices and chocolate biscuits were disseminated through the bus. Those who
had been able to get a few winks of sleep prior to this, were the lucky ones,
because now everyone was wide awake! Thanks to the desert route we arrived via
the back way to Abydos, meandering through the cemeteries on the edge of the
settlement, and though the driver had no idea where we were going, thanks to
Yaser’s local knowledge we did not get lost! Amazingly, we could soon see the
back of the temple and rounded the great court to reach the small Egyptian café
where we had eaten breakfast a year ago. It was a kind of time warp, as all
seemed unchanged, with our table waiting, and within minutes we had spread out
and fully occupied the café’s streetside terrace. Orders were quickly placed
and the food began to appear as if by magic, though seeing as we were so many
the food tended to appear in fits and starts, with the head of the table doing
far better out of the arrangement. But all eventually had fuul mixed with zibda
(butter), salat, the local specialty of omelets fried in metal bowls and still sizzling
when they came to the table, bread, and of course the infamous mish made its
appearance. As previously, there was not enough bread, and cries of “aish tani”
(more bread) rang repeatedly, particularly from the end of the table, who continually
seemed to have not enough food. Bread had to be sent for from a nearby bakery,
and needless to say by the time it arrived we had already drunk our post-meal
tea and coffee and were heading out, piling back into the bus and making our
way to the temple of Ramesses II. It was decided that since the temple is
mostly open to the air, to visit it first in the cool of the day, and to save
the larger Seti I temple, for the most part roofed, for last.</div>
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<b>The view of the Seti I Temple from breakfast</b> </div>
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After a drive of a matter of minutes, we were dropped in
front of the temple, and the floor so to speak was handed to Yaser to give an introduction
to the temple in Arabic to the students. We are truly fortunate to have Yaser,
as he is able to speak knowledgably about the site of Abydos as he has known
and loved it for his entire professional life, and he clearly communicates his
passion and enthusiasm whenever he talks about any aspect of Abydos and its
history. He moved the students through the temple, recounting its architectural
history, and seamlessly passing them to Hassan Ramadan, who then gave an
explanation of the digital epigraphy that he had employed while recording the
temple. Hassan made excellent use of one of the carved and painted rear rooms
to not only demonstrate but describe the different digital approaches one might
take to record what was a very complicated wall. Our students did us proud by
not only listening intently and taking notes, but also peppering Hassan with
questions which led to even further dialogue and discussions. Although not
fully understanding the Arabic, we felt that it had turned into a truly
excellent teaching experience. And unbelievably it took nearly an hour before our
students had run out of questions! At that point, the local inspector Hazem
Salah, an old friend and former student of Will’s, joined us for the remainder
of the tour, which facilitated access to parts of the site normally closed to
the public. We were now able to take a short cut across the desert to reach the
back of the Seti temple, and particularly the Osirieon. As with the Ramesses II
temple, Yaser and also Hazem Salah introduced the students to the importance of
the Osirieon and its relationship to the temple itself. Following their excellent
presentation, the men needed to go to the mosque for Friday prayer, leaving the
rest, including Will and JJ, to then spend some extra time in the Seti temple
to explore and enjoy the deep cool shade created by the vaulted chapels at the rear
of the temple.</div>
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After prayers, the group reformed in the Seti temple, with
Hazem Saleh giving an impromptu tour of the temple for our students. And by
1pm, on schedule, we were able to again leave by the back of the temple to take
the short cut across the desert to he small home and restaurant near the
Ramesses II temple where we would have lunch. Those of you who remember our
blog about Abydos from last year, will not be surprised that we returned to the
same venue where we had had such a wonderful meal before and had proved such a
pleasant place for our students to relax after their epigraphic exertions! The
food was forthcoming almost immediately, though it took us some time to figure
out our seating arrangements, which somehow reverted to a boys table, and a
girls table (we just cant win!). Lentil soup was followed by mounds of rice,
chicken, homemade kofta, and vegetable tagines, and as before the meal was
rounded off by the legendary Abydene bananas, which though small truly are the
most delicious bananas in Egypt!</div>
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<b>Yaser and Abydos Inspector Hazem Saleh</b></div>
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<b>Group photo on the steps at the rear of the Seti I Temple</b></div>
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<b>Hazem Saleh talking to the students about the temple</b></div>
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<b>Abydene Banana!</b></div>
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<b>Will and Hassan Ramadan</b></div>
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This occasion was somewhat different than in the past because
it was to be our last meal with two of our students, Rasha and Alaa Talaat who
we were leaving in Abydos to join the American mission directed by Dr. Janet
Richards. Seeing as they would not be able to join us for graduation, we
brought graduation to them, presenting them with the personal drawing boards and
gift mugs, as you will remember we did earlier in the season for Ahmed ElNasseh
when he likewise had to leave us for pastures anew. As with Ahmed joining a
French excavation in Saudi Arabia, working with Janet would be an excellent
opportunity for Alaa Talaat and Rasha to gain additional epigraphic experience,
and it was also a reunion of sorts for JJ, who had cut her teeth some 20 years
ago working with Janet at Abydos. When the car carrying Janet arrived at the restaurant,
it was a wonderful reunion, as not only did Janet come, but also the Abydos
house manager Ahmed Ragab and one of the house staff, Sinjab, whom JJ had not
seen in many years. Much time was spent chatting and catching up, and of course
introducing Janet to our team and our students, some of whom, like Yaser, she
knew very well. But eventually it was time to leave, and after the usual
lengthy and emotional Egyptian farewells, our students piled into the bus
bidding Alaa Talaat and Rasha goodbye, and wishing them luck in their work at
Abydos. As we drove off in one direction, they drive off in the opposite heading
up the wadi to the American dig house.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Unfortunately, now that our presence was well known at the
temple, we were provided with a military escort back through the city of Baliana,
and it was some time before we could return to the desert road to make our
journey home to Luxor. Despite the long day, or perhaps because of it, our students
found unexpected reserves of energy for an unbelievably boisterous journey
back, with much hilarity originating in the back of the bus (no surprise
there). By the time we reached Luxor, dusk and then night had settled over the
west as we recognized familiar landmarks, and one-by-one our students were deposited
by the side of the road to make their way to their various homes. It was nearly
6pm by the time Hassan Ramadan departed and Will and JJ were returned to their
flat, with Hazem handling the cleaning and returning of the bus. A long but
successful day with the realization that we all had to be up early again the next
morning to return to work. Unbelievably the long anticipated field trip was now
a pleasant memory.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><b>Arrival back in Luxor</b></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-74282202758534293862018-11-08T09:24:00.001-08:002018-11-08T09:24:20.086-08:00Field School Week 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">On Saturday we returned to the West Bank and the students returned to
working in their assigned research tombs, carrying on with the research steps,
comparing and contrasting the tomb walls with the published material. We left
them to it, only checking in briefly to be sure everything was clear. At breakfast we were joined both by our former
student Mahmoud Hassan, and by our friend and colleague Hratch Parpazian from
Cambridge University. Despite the trek across the desert, Hratch arrived laden
with not just Egyptian sweets, but chilled sweets, having had the foresight to pack
his rucksack with ice! We had already arranged that our former student Mahmoud
Hassan, who is working in a nearby tomb, be available to demonstrate to the
students the program he had created the previous year to document his tomb.
Mahmoud generously offered to show the students his work after the breakfast.
This was an excellent opportunity for the students to have reinforced what they
had learned from their work in TT110 and TT41. While Mahmoud took our students
to his tomb, we brought Hratch over to TT110 and gave him a tour of the tomb
and our work in it. And following Mahmoud’s presentation, the students went
back to working in their tombs for the rest of the work day.</span></div>
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<b>JJ and Will with Hratch</b></div>
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<b>Mahmoud Hassan presenting his work</b></div>
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Sunday continued in very much the same fashion, with the
students in their tombs until breakfast, when we had unexpected guests. We were
delighted that our former students Rasha and Abu el-Hagag had taken up our
invitation to visit and joined us for breakfast. For Rasha, it was a chance to
meet our new students, as she has been away from Luxor and Egypt living in
Saudi Arabia with her husband and son. The reunion was made all the more
delightful as Rasha brought both cakes and Egyptian sweets, along with cold
soda! After breakfast, it was back to work for everyone, with the students wrapping
their research projects and Will and JJ checking in to be sure each group would
be ready to begin their presentations first thing Monday morning. While JJ and
Will were checking on the students, Sayed and Hazem kept busy by preparing the
students’ computers for the digital component of the field school, which was
set to begin at the end of the week.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Monday morning brought the moment of truth for our students. In order to
maximize the degree of communication in the presentations, we had insisted the
students speak in Arabic because it was as much about the students presenting
what they had learned as their colleagues learning from their experience. We
decided to begin with the tomb furthest away, and involving not 2 but 3 of the
students: the tomb of Ramose, TT55, which had been assigned to Mahmoud, Safaa,
and Rasha. They did a marvelous job taking their fellow students and colleagues
through the tomb, following the research steps and dividing the presentation up
into equal parts, beginning in the courtyard where Safaa walked the students
through the architecture, to Mahmoud in the tomb explaining the decorative
history, and finishing with Rasha and the epigraphic analysis.</span></div>
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There was just enough time after the trek back and before
breakfast for our Inspector Atito to explain to the students the research he
had been doing in TT110. Since the students themselves knew the tomb so well,
it was an excellent opportunity for Atito to benefit form their experience as
well. Seeing as this was all entirely new to Atito, he did a very good job in
applying the research steps and noticing many of the issues familiar to us from
our work in the tomb. He also timed his presentation perfectly, finishing at
exactly 10:30 in time for second breakfast!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Second breakfast was probably enjoyed more by the students
who had already completed their presentations, than the others who were still
waiting to know who would be next. After breakfast, the presentations continued
with Amira and Alaa Talaat taking us through their work in TT296, a very small,
single-chamber, elaborately painted Ramesside tomb – quite the contrast to
Ramose. Again, we were very impressed with their presentation and seeing as the
tomb was so small, especially with all of us inside, their presentation
necessarily became more of a dialogue with them sharing and commenting upon
each other’s contribution, with Alaa Talaat taking the lead on the decorative
program and Amira on the epigraphic analysis. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>An unexpected discovery!</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">We finished the day in good time, leaving the final two presentations
for Tuesday morning. Monday afternoon found us back at Hazem</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16px;">’</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">s for our weekly visit and home-cooked Egyptian meal, this time another of our favorites: mashi (rice-stuffed vegetables), which provided us with generous leftovers for home. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The next morning, following tea and coffee, it was Rehab and
Mina’s turn to present on their research in the beautifully painted tomb of
Menna, TT69, another very small tomb. As with the day before, Mina and Rehab
impressed us with their thorough analysis of the tomb’s decorative history,
which was made all the more difficult by areas of re-working. Seeing as Menna
is a well-known tomb that has been open to the public for over a century, they
made excellent use of earlier photographs and publications, as well as
referencing the most recent high-tech digital work in the tomb by Melinda Hartwig. </span></div>
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We were more-or-less on schedule for the final presentation
by Walid and Hala, with the understanding that second breakfast would be delayed
slightly until they had finished. In a sense we had come full circle, and after
2 small painted tombs, we were once again in a large, carved tomb similar to
Ramose, that of Kheruef, TT192. Walid and Hala did a superb job dividing up
their presentation and walking us all through the tomb’s immense courtyards and
spaces while drawing our attention to the tomb’s architectural and decorative program.
They paid particular attention to the Chicago House publication, providing an excellent
analysis of the earlier epigraphic program, and commenting upon how they might
do it differently incorporating more recent technical advancements. </div>
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<b>Beam me up Scotty!</b> </div>
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With all the presentations complete, JJ and Mr. Will took
the opportunity to review with the students each of their presentations and praise
them for how successfully they had understood the research assignment in order to
give varied and impressive presentations, incorporating not only printouts and
photos from their research, but also computer illustrations. Seeing as this brought
to a conclusion the first 2 weeks of the school with epigraphy programming and
research, it seemed an ideal opportunity to take advantage of the grand
staircase leading into Kheruef for a last group photo of what is clearly a happily
relieved field school!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Seeing as we still had some time in hand, we delegated Hazem
to take on the teaching role, giving the students a little bit of introduction
to the setting up of their computers for the digital portion of the school
which would start the next day with the arrival of the newly PhD’d (mabruk!)
Dr. Hassan Ramadan.<b><o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Feeling pleased and proud, Will and JJ decided, with very
little encouragement, to celebrate the successful beginning of the school by
going to, guess where? Pizza Roma, for guess what? Cold beer!<o:p></o:p></div>
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With the arrival of Hassan Ramadan on Tuesday night, it
meant that Wednesday morning found us not on the west, but back at Karnak Lab,
behind the Khonsu Temple area of Karnak, where the students would be taught by
Hassan for the remaining 2 weeks of the field school. It also meant that our
student Hussein has returned to the field school for the digital portion. Since
Hassan had successfully defended his PhD in Berlin less than a week before joining
us in Egypt, we wanted to acknowledge this accomplishment straightaway, with a
cake for second breakfast. The cake was from Twinkies, the famous bakery by the
railway station, but the distance from the site meant it had a rather convoluted
arrival via taxi, our on-site helper Mostafa, to Hazem, and finally to Hassan Ramadan!
Despite the lack of plates or cutlery, it was much enjoyed by all.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Tuesday and Wednesday were spent in much the same fashion,
with Hassan beginning his teaching of which Illustrator tools would be the most
useful for the kind of digital drawing the students would generally be doing. Seeing
as Hazem and Sayed had gone to great lengths to prepare the students’ laptops,
and the lab, in advance of Hassan’s arrival, Hassan was able to hit the ground
running. And we found within a very short time the students were all working
with very intense concentration, without anyone seeming to fall behind.</div>
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<b>Alaa Talaat's first attempts ...</b></div>
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As with the previous week, on Thursday we adjourned at the end of the
work day to Pizza Roma for a staff meeting, now of course including Hassan. We
were able to go over the completion of the research and presentations, bringing
Hassan and Yaser up-to-date, as well as clarify and plan how the upcoming weeks
would proceed. A quiet night in was obligatory, seeing as we will need to be up
even earlier than usual to be collected for our field trip to Abydos on Friday,
at 5:10 am! As in previous seasons, we will post a special blog about the day’s
outing and subsequent adventures. So expect another report at the beginning of
next week in order to keep up with us!</div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-10865441907135044712018-11-02T12:47:00.003-07:002018-11-02T12:47:42.470-07:00Field School Week 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Having demonstrated to the students how to plan an epigraphic
program on one wall in the court of TT41, come Saturday we let them loose in
the tomb. Each pair was given their own particular wall, and as in the previous
year JJ and Will made scarce. Will and Sayed remained at the tent and began to
introduce our inspector Atito to the basic 5 steps of epigraphy, while JJ and Hazem
went off to have a look at potential tombs to assign to the students as part of
the research component of the field school. Just after second breakfast we were
amazed to look up and find a familiar countenance striding across the desert,
clearly aiming for our tent. As he got closer, we realized that it was none
other than Abu Gomaa! So for the remainder of the day we had 2 Gomaa’s for the price
of 1! There was, needless to say, much celebration and general rejoicing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"><b>Abu Gomaa riding shotgun</b> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The students continued their planning work all that
day and resumed it first thing Sunday morning. Meanwhile, Atito continued with
his epigraphy practice, learning as the other students had, how to draw damage
on the façade of TT 110. Every so often Will and/or JJ would silently lurk
behind pillars within TT 41 in order to see what was happening with the
students without being seen. Any reservations or concerns we might have had were
quickly dispelled with the realization that the students were doing exactly
what they were supposed to be doing. Discussing, comparing, and contrasting their
work not only within each pair, but between groups of colleagues as well. About
an hour before the end of the work day, Mr. Will spoke with each group to see
if they would manage to finish by the end of that day. All were in the very final
stages of their plan; some had even finished and were discussing their
presentation that was set for the next day. Both JJ and Will were extremely impressed
with how well they had understood the concepts and how successful they seemingly
were in putting them into practice. With this sense of optimism, JJ and Will
felt no qualms in celebrating our first week’s work with good friends and colleagues
Keli and Jen from Chicago House at our traditional watering hole, The Lantern.
It was nice to be welcomed back by the gregarious Debi, and see that the menus
had been updated, but that all our favorite meals were still available. We had
a great time bringing Jen and Keli up-to-speed on how our work was progressing,
but also to swap stories of what we had all been up to over the summer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b>Can you spot the difference?</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">On Monday it was time for our student pairs to present
their work to the larger group. We began with Ahmed ElNasseh and Rasha,
followed by Mario and Rehab, and Mahmoud and Safaa. As we had surmised form the
day before, we got off to a great start with all 3 groups giving excellent,
comprehensive, presentations, which engendered discussion and clearly showed
the degree to which they had all understood the basic principles. One reason we
had begun with Ahmed ElNasseh and Rasha, is because sadly it was to be his last
day with us in the school as he had been offered the opportunity of excavating
with the French in Saudi Arabia and his flight was scheduled for that evening.
Having known of this in advance, we had prepared a little surprise for him at
breakfast. No, it wasn’t a cake! But rather, the traditional Egyptian delicacy known
as fatir, which we have raved to you all about in previous years. Sweet, flaky
bread that one dips in sugarcane molasses, or on which one spreads salty gibna
abyad – both savory and sweet, the perfect food! In addition, seeing as Ahmed
would not be able to complete the course and receive a certificate at
graduation for the entire program, we prepared for him a letter of
recommendation for the portion he had completed, as well as a gift of a drawing
board and personalized mug from Mr. Will and the Mudira. The same gifts we had
given the graduates of the advanced school last year.</span></div>
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<b>Ahmed el Nasseh and Rasha's Epigraphy Program</b></div>
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<b>Mena and Rehab's Wall Diagram</b></div>
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<b>Mahmoud and Safaa's Epigraphy Program</b></div>
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<b>Presentation of gifts to Ahmed ElNasseh</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">After breakfast, the presentations resumed, with our
final 2 groups: Alaa Talaat and Amira, and Walid, who presented on his own as
his partner Hala unfortunately had scratched her eye while working the day
before and had to be seen by a doctor. As with the earlier groups, once again
our students did not disappoint! Alaa and Amira presented a very complicated wall
extremely well and Walid, acknowledging Hala’s contribution to their work, did
an excellent job presenting their joint efforts. In celebration of the
completion of this part of the program, and recognizing that we would no longer
have Ahmed with us, we took several group photos, including the full complement
of students.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b>Alaa Talaat and Amira's Epigraphy Program</b></div>
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<b>Walid and Hala's Epigraphy Program</b></div>
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<b>Student antics at the entrance to TT 41</b></div>
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<b>Epigraphy Team in front of De Garis Davies House</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">At the end of the work day Will and JJ renewed the arrangement
we had with Hazem and his family last season, joining them for an early meal at
Omm Hazem’s after the work, and coming home with plenty of leftovers for later!
We also got to see Hazem’s brother Ahmed, who was in town briefly between tour
trips to Hurghada and Cairo.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">On Tuesday we switched gears and began the second, research,
portion of the field school training, starting with an extra lie-in as we all
met on the East Bank corniche in front of Chicago House at 8am. Before going
into Chicago House, we took the opportunity of the cool morning to remind them
of the general etiquette of using the library, and JJ spoke briefly about the
basic plan for the research program and handed out the tomb assignments to each
pair. Once in the library, Sayed gave the students a brief refresher in Arabic of
the use of the library and JJ reminded them how to understand the bibliography
entries given in various books they would consult, following which each group
went off into the stacks in search of their tomb publications. Once each pair
had found their main tomb publication, JJ handed them off to Mr. Will, who, in
the meantime had located the German publication of TT 41 and explained to the
students how the publication had been organized. He then proceeded to let each
group critique the plate depicting the line drawing of the wall they themselves
had studied, planned, and presented just the day before. This was an excellent
opportunity for them to demonstrate just how much they had learned about not
only the methodology, but also their particular wall so as to speak both
knowledgably and confidently about what they saw in the German publication. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b>Sayed's refresher</b></div>
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<b>Mudira JJ reviewing Porter & Moss with the students</b></div>
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<b>A bemused Mr. Will with the students</b> </div>
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<b>Walid and Hala critique the publication of their TT41 wall</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Because Chicago House library closed at noon for
lunch, the students were able to end their day early, and after gobbling up
some biscuits in the garden, everyone headed home. Mena, seeing as he had to go
directly to his job and had no time for lunch, ate an entire packet all by
himself! We have the evidence to prove it …<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b>Group shot outside Chicago House Library</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The evening presented the opportunity of renewing
contact with our old friend Afifi Rohim, who has been working in the Western
Valley and was so helpful to us in February and March. He was particularly interested
in hearing how the students were doing in the advanced portion of the school.
We met him and his colleagues Tayib and Ahmed Ali, along with Hazem and Sayed,
at a new open-air coffeeshop in Luxor which came highly recommended. It did not
disappoint and we had a lovely time over coffees catching up and laughing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">On Wednesday we returned to the west. The previous
night, at Mr. Will’s insistence, JJ had created a “5 step” program for research,
modeled upon all of the various 5 step outlines Will has prepared. With this
addition, we now have 5 “5 step” documents for all aspects of illustration and research!
JJ reviewed the new 5 steps with the students, and armed with this information the
students made their way to their assigned tombs to begin step 2. Mr Will and
Mudira JJ visited each group through the course of the morning just to double
check they were all beginning with the first step! Much relieved, we found they
were so could leave them to get on with it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Thursday we returned to Chicago House so that the
students could carry on researching their tombs, collecting photos and bibliography
that they would put to use for their research projects, in fact returning to
step 1. Everyone was so intent on their research, we found it necessary to
enforce a biscuit break mid-way through the morning for fear they would collapse
from malnutrition! Once again, we ended our day at noon, making for a nice
reward for all of the <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">students’</span> hard work. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b>Biscuit Break</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Seeing as it was Thursday and we were on the East Bank
for a change, we decided to have our usual staff lunch at Pizza Roma, which is
within a stone’s throw of where Yaser lives. Consequently, Yaser was early,
saving us a table in a conveniently empty restaurant, one advantage to eating
so early. All Egyptians love pizza, but Egyptian pizza is a very different
thing than you might expect, the crust being very thick and doughy and things
go on the pizza you’ve never seen on pizza before! But at Pizza Roma, they experience
true Italian pizza because the Egyptian owner and chef trained in Rome. Hazem
loves the gorgonzola pizza (yuck!), Sayed tried the BBQ chicken and vegetable
pizza (weird!), and Yaser was introduced to Italian pizza for the first time. So
impressed was he that he plans to bring his family, since his children, as all
children worldwide, love pizza! The meeting was primarily to bring Yaser up-to-date
with the previous week’s teaching since he ahs not been actively involved on
site or in the library. An early lunch also meant that we had plenty of time
for the traditional Chicago House Halloween party, which is usually a great gathering
of the many different foreign missions (Spanish, Polish, Mexican, American,
French, Swiss) beginning work in Luxor in the Autumn. As in the past the
Chicago House staff made all welcome. The house and courtyard were spectacularly
decorated, including even an active projection of spooky ghosts encircling the
courtyard.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Despite the late night, Will and JJ managed to still put
in a productive day’s work at Chicago House library, re-meeting many of the,
now un-costumed, colleagues from the night before. We ended the day by meeting
up with all of our former students, and of course Hazem, Sayed, and Yaser, at a
local coffeeshop on the Nile. It was wonderful to see them all, and made all
the more special by the fact that Rasha xxx, from our first field school way
back in 2015, was visiting her family in Luxor from Saudi Arabia, where she now
lives with her husband and son, was able to join us for the reunion. Since the
field school we found that both Abu el-Hagag and Shaimaa had new members of
their family, a little girl for Abu el-Hagag, and a little boy for Shaimaa.
Having realized that Hassan Ramadan should have completed his PhD defense in
Berlin, Yaser was able to put through a Skype call on his ipad and
unbelievably, we were all able to speak to Hassan and congratulate him in his apartment
in Berlin. Needless to say, he passed! And when he joins us on the 6th, he will
be Dr. Hassan Ramadan Aglan, and there will be cake!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-83668956185347341272018-10-26T13:21:00.001-07:002018-11-01T01:44:37.990-07:002018 Advanced Field School Prep & Week 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After several months away from Egypt and our students, Will
and I were quite excited to return to Egypt. But of course, something as simple
as that is never straightforward when its Egypt! Due to delays regarding both
antiquities and security clearances, and because Hassan Ramadan wasn’t sure of
his PhD defense date in Berlin, we were greatly relieved when all the stars
aligned in the final fortnight before the season was meant to begin. The gods
had smiled, permissions were granted, and Hassan’s defense was scheduled for
Nov. 2, so that it would be finished before he started teaching. So everything
could proceed according to plan. Phew! Though unlike in previous seasons when
we had travelled together, because JJ’s family is joining us later in the
season, it was easier for her to take a different flight. So Will was left to
take the usual London-Luxor journey on his own, with the two of us rendezvousing
in Luxor. Will spent his time reading, eating, and drinking multiple cups of
coffee in Heathrow while waiting for his evening flight, and trying to remember
to buy the port at duty free in Heathrow. Fortunately he wrote his reminder
about the port on his bookmark! Meanwhile, JJ was schlepping from Philadelphia
to JFK via bus and train before taking the direct New York-Cairo flight,
followed by a connecting flight to Luxor. Whereas Will’s flight was a mere 5
hours and 1 hour time change, JJ’s involved about 15 hours in travel and a 6
hour time change! The one advantage to this was that she was able to sleep on
the long NY-Cairo flight and thus avoid the worst of the jet-lag! JJ reached
Luxor first, settling into the flat in the early evening, and able to enjoy
dinner with Hazem and his family. Will arrived around midnight, and was met of
course by Hazem and our driver Ayman, who had also been asked by our friend and
colleague Owen Murray, also traveling on the flight with Will, to pick him up!
So they piled into the taxi together and shortly thereafter Will walked into a
nice cool flat and we had our first round of hugs and hellos in many months!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wasting no time, on Tuesday morning we began taking care of
official business, getting papers signed and greetings accomplished at both the
East Bank and West Bank teftishes. An amazing double act, wasting next to no
time. As we were unexpectedly finished mid-morning, we decided to adjourn to
Sheikh Ali’s to have our first inaugural masbut in order to celebrate and have
a mini-staff meeting with Hazem and Sayed to think about the teaching and plan
going forward. This was particularly necessary as the field school would start
the very next day! Meeting over, we bade farewell to Sayed and headed back east
to have lunch at our old stomping grounds – Oasis Palace, where we were once
again greeted by our waiter Ayman. After an afternoon of unpacking, we decided
to round off the evening by touching base at our other favorite watering hole,
Pizza Roma. And as with Oasis we were happily welcomed back by the team of
young waiters and the restaurant manager. Pizza and a cold beer, and we knew we
were back.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wednesday morning we awoke with the sun bright and early,
and by 7:30 we were at the ferry greeting nearly all of our former students.
Amazingly nearly all of our students were there and accounted for – early – but
for Mahmoud, who had to make his way from Esna. After many rounds of hugs,
kisses, and welcome backs, we headed down to the boat, once again being
captained by Abu Ghalan. <o:p></o:p></div>
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On the west we were met by our microbus, and new <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 106%;">driver, <span style="font-size: 12pt; line-height: 106%;">Gumsan
Mohamed Ahmed, </span>and</span> like last year a second van
was bringing those who lived on the west, including our Inspector for the
season, Atito Mohamed Hassan. Hazem had, as in past years, worked wonders
during the preceding days and early morning, so that everything we needed for
base camp at TT110 was already set up when we arrived. This year, with ARCE
having finished it’s work in the area, we re-located our breakfast spot back to
its original placement in the ruins of the abandoned house just south of the
tomb. We were greeted effusively by Abu Hamada, and introduced to his new
assistant, none other than Abu Gomaa’s son Hisham, also known as Gomato (a term
of affection meaning “little Gomaa” given to him by the “Spanish Djehuty” team;
rather ironic given that he is the tallest among us!), who would assist with
our feeding and watering throughout the season. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Gomato</b></div>
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Following morning tea and coffee, complete with biscuits and
chato, Will commenced teaching with discussion of the 5 steps of epigraphy
preparation. The students had known to bring their notebooks, so school had
begun! As was the case last year, the first week of this advanced field school
is to be spent in TT110 and other open West Bank tombs learning how to prepare
and epigraphy program so that the students would know how to begin to undertake
the documentation of a tomb, or any monument. <o:p></o:p></div>
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This continued until second breakfast, which was a
delightful spread of tamayya, fuul, potates, fired aubergine, gibna, salat, and
mounds of aish balady. It was familiar but wonderful, and benefited from our
experience the previous seasons in creating a buffet of choices so each could
make their own sandwiches, thus dispensing with the confusion, and
disappointment, often created by ordering! After breakfast, Will took the
students into TT110 to demonstrate the steps he had spoken to them about
lecture-style for the first part of the morning. It was a terribly hot day
(38C/100F – outside, add another 10-15 degrees inside with a dozen students in
a tiny tomb!), so JJ left Will and the students to sweat in the tomb and headed
back to the East Bank with Hazem to finish off some paperwork. Carrying on
admirably despite the heat, Will demonstrated the method by which he and JJ had
originally divided the walls for the epigraphic program, utilizing an
unfamiliar (to the students) wall. JJ and Hazem waltzed in by step 4, just in
time for JJ to contradict and correct Mr. Will. This, as in previous seasons,
led to a general discussion regarding the organization of the necessary sheets
required for the documentation, an arrangement where there is no right or wrong
answer, so discussion, explanation, and clarification is excellent so that the
students get a sense of evaluating all possibilities and in theory coming to
the best decision.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Come 1pm we were all more than ready to leave the tomb and
make our way back to the buses and home. Will and JJ refreshed and recovered
with lunch at our traditional spot – Oasis – complete with large, icy lemoons.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Thursday morning we introduced the students to TT 41, an
adjacent tomb open to the public, which would provide them the opportunity of
planning their own epigraphy program for a particular wall in the tomb, using
the methods they had just been taught. At morning tea and coffee we informed
them they would be working in pairs, and provided the names and walls they
would share. The idea being that they would work together not only during this
portion of the school, but also when they begin their research projects with
JJ. Unfortunately, just as morning tea was ending, Abu Hamada
slipped and twisted his ankle quite badly, meaning he had to leave to have it
seen by a doctor. As we found out later in the day, the fall was serious enough
that they put his ankle in a cast, and of course he would not be able to return
to us for the remainder of the season.<br />
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Before second breakfast JJ and Will walked them through the tomb,
introducing them to the tomb in general, and discussing how they would go about
undertaking each step in each room of the tomb. After breakfast, we chose 1
wall in the court of the tomb to focus on with students, going through all 5
steps involved in preparing an epigraphy program. This proved an excellent
exchange because it was clear that the students had truly grasped not only the
concepts but also the particular considerations of how to organize the sheets
for a wall based upon the wall’s condition, size, and decorative program, as
well as any restrictions due to the availability of the materials necessary to
record it. Mr. Will was very pleased that they all seemed to truly understand
that there is no “right” way of doing it, but there are many options and they
as epigraphers would need to weigh the advantages and disadvantages of any
combination and then decide which was the most appropriate. This would put them
in good stead for when, on Saturday, they would be doing it for themselves.<br />
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As in previous seasons, seeing as it was Thursday and the
end of our first, short, week, we arranged to have lunch at Sheikh Ali’s with
Hazem and Sayed, as well as Yaser who we had not yet seen. This way we could
all discuss the field school and bring Yaser up to speed on our plans. As with
our other favorite venues, we were welcomed back by the staff and given our
favorite table in the courtyard. We reminded them that we would be back for the
end of season graduation celebration, and once again they kindly declared that
the restaurant was to be our “home” and available to us whenever we needed it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Bowl of tahina at Sheikh Ali</b></div>
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Today our first Friday of the season, was spent in traditional fashion working at Chicago House library in the morning and joining in for the
famous Chicago House lunch. We were fortunate to find Chicago House Director
Ray Johnson free so we could chat and catch up, as well as meeting colleagues
and friends like Brett, Kelly, Margaret, Owen, Anait, and Gina. And, as is often
the case, discovering unexpected friends lurking in the stacks, like Hratch
Parpazian (previously an epigrapher at CH and now Reader in Egyptology at
Cambridge), Aude Gra<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">ü</span>zer-Ohara,
and Kimberly Watt, both friends of Will’s from Cambridge currently working in
Luxor. We spent the afternoon clarifying which tombs we would assign the
students for the research portion of the school based upon what was published
and housed in the Chicago House library. We had also learned that our good
friend Luigi Prada was in town from Oxford leading a tour, so we ended the day
by meeting him for drinks and had a delightful time catching up on all things
Egyptology.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Selfie with Luigi</b></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-72791358148012552732018-03-18T11:28:00.000-07:002018-03-18T11:28:28.939-07:00Our Final Weekend<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
With just two days left before returning home, and just when
Mr. Will thought it was all over, we went back across to the west on Saturday
morning to visit the excavation and research project of Andrea Gnirs, who is
working in the south end of the Qurna necropolis, in tombs dating to Thutmose
III-Amenhotep II. It was a wonderful visit, and we exchanged quite a bit of
good information throughout the tour and discussions. Then it was off for a
final lunch at Sheikh Ali/Marsam, where no sooner had we sat down to enjoy a
quiet, relaxing meal, then the place filled up with tour groups and a group
with Hourig Sorouzian, who was hosting a large party of visitors. Malesh, as
they say! It was nice to have a chance to say a final goodbye to Hourig, as well
as several Egyptian colleagues. And just as we were finishing up we were
delighted and surprised to see another old friend and colleague walk in, Chris
Naunton, who is leading a tour in Egypt and was stopping in for a quick coffee.
As it had been ages since either JJ or Will had seen Chris, this was a happy
circumstance indeed, and we sat a bit longer chatting in the shade of the
Marsam garden.<br />
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Finally, though, it was time to leave as we belatedly
remembered that JJ had a lecture to give at the Mummification Museum that
evening. So, we made our way back east, taking our last trip across the river
with Abu Ghalan. With just enough time to shower and change, we grabbed a quick
drink with the legendary Salima Ikram and Steve Harvey at the Winter Palace,
before Salima had to catch her flight back to Cairo. Then it was off to the
Mummification Museum, where, despite a few technical difficulties, JJ gave her
lecture on the new information we have learned about Djhuty and TT110’s
decoration through the field schools’ epigraphic work. Afterwards, we bade the
students farewell with a round of photos and many emotional goodbyes, but
reminding one and all that we would see them again in a mere 6 months, insh’allah!
The group headed off to a local riverside coffeshop under Hazem’s direction.
And while Yaser meant to stay for only 5 minutes or so, as he had to catch a
train to Abydos, he ended up spending the better part of the evening with them.
As we have found, it is hard to leave our students.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<b>Egyptologists Francesco Tiradretti and Steve Harvey chat before the lecture</b></div>
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There was no sleeping in on Sunday, as JJ and Will had promised
to visit the work of Shaimaa and Nadia at the Sphinx Avenue at 9am. We spent a
delightful hour with them and Hussien, getting an archaeological tour of the
site’s history from Hussien, and conferring with Shaimaa and Nadia about the
drawings they have been making of the Graeco-Roman blocks they have discovered
re-used in a later building, probably a wine-press area. They treated us to
breakfast afterwards, our last round of tamayya, fuul, torshi, potates,
aubergine, and aish balady. It was a lovely way to spend our last morning in
Egypt. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The rest of the day was spent packing and having a final meal with Hazem and his family, as well as a final coffee with Hazem and Sayed, calling Yaser, who was in Abydos, so he could join in the final merriment of the season. Stay tuned, as come October we’ll be doing it all again!</div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-45225958551694643622018-03-17T05:03:00.000-07:002018-03-18T05:06:41.274-07:00Graduation 2018<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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With the last official day of the field school on Thursday,
we decided to have our graduation ceremony and party on the Friday after. Will
and JJ spent Friday morning, as always, doing a bit of work at the flat and at
Chicago House, and partaking of our last koshari for the season.</div>
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At 4:45 we were collected by Hazem and set off for the
ferry, where Abu Ghalan was waiting to bring everyone from the east over to the
west. We were joined on the boat by Ahmed ElNasseh and his daughter, Yaser and
his family, Mario and his wife, Amira and her family, Mahmoud, and Rasha. Hala
and Rehab, on the other hand, missed the boat! They therefore had to be
collected afterwards. Our trusty driver Mohammed met us on the west and drove
us all to Sheikh Ali’s / Marsam, where those from the west were already
waiting: Alaa Talaat, Walid, Hussien, Sayed and Safaa and their children, Mahmoud
Hassan, Alaa Hussein and his family, Abu el-Hagag and his children, and Abd elGhany. We were joined this
year by some of our colleagues from the west bank teftish, Fathy Yassin, Bahaa Abdelgaber,
Ramadan Ahmed, and Ahmed Boghdady. And, of course, Abu Gomaa, Abu Hamada, and
our second west bank driver Abu Amaar, with his children. <o:p></o:p></div>
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After returning the portfolios and tubes of drawings to our students,
and speaking to them a little bit about the coming October-November field
school, and once Hala and Rehab arrived, we began the official ceremony. As in
years past, there was quite the receiving line for each student, and many
photos to record the moment. In addition to their certificates, our returning
students who participated in the illustration field school each were given a
drawing board to assist them with their future work. Our new students each received
a copy of the BM publication of the Tomb of Nebamun, as had been given in the past.
Certificates awarded and photos taken, it was Will and JJ’s turn to show their
appreciation for all the work that Yaser, Sayed, and Hazem had done over the
course of the field school. We gave each of them a book that we thought would
be of particular interest and use. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>JJ, Ramadan Ahmed, Fathy Yassin, Yaser, Will, and Sayed</b></div>
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<o:p><b>Returning Field School Students</b></o:p></div>
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<b>Field School 2018 Students</b></div>
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<b>Presentation of Gifts to Yaser, Sayed, and Hazem</b></div>
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<b>Group Shots after the Ceremony</b></div>
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Ceremony concluded, and random photos taken, it was time to eat and enjoy the evening.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Sohagi Brigade</b></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-42137434369611874062018-03-16T23:55:00.000-07:002018-03-16T23:55:31.546-07:00Field School Week 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Saturday marks the beginning of the end of the field school –
the last week of drawing. There was a notable lowering of energy amongst the
students as they staggered onto the boat in the morning, less laughter and
joking as they too clearly were recovering from the day before. The scene was similar
at the morning tea and coffee, with a much more subdued atmosphere. The groups were
changed so that Group 2 now came into the tomb for their 3 intensive epigraphy
days, with Group 1 joining Yaser in the tent to begin object drawing. As it was
another hot day, we were glad to head off at 1pm for lunch. Since we hadn’t managed
to have lunch with Hazem’s family in several days, we were treated to a lovely
spread at the home of his sister Ahlam, who also made basbousa especially for
Will.<br />
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<b>Like Movie Stars</b></div>
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On Sunday we continued in much the same fashion, though the
wind proved to be a problem. What began as a nice, fresh breeze turned into a
mini-gale, to the degree that it nearly brought down the drawing tent! Yaser and
his students had to retreat to the breakfast tent and make hand sketches until
the wind died down enough to return to drawing. In the tomb, the students continued
working on their sheets and made excellent progress. Just before second breakfast
JJ and Will played hooky and took up the invitation from Nozomu Kawai, an old friend
and colleague of JJ’s from graduate school days, to briefly visit his work, seeing
as it was his last day on site. The Japanese Waseda University mission is working in
several tombs located just to the east of TT 110, and at the moment they are conserving
a beautifully painted Ramesside tomb; they plan to continue their work in the
area with excavation in the next season. Now that our season is drawing to a
close, we felt it time to make our customary second visit to the Lantern with Jen
and Keli, treating ourselves to a lovely traditional English Sunday dinner, and
having a fun night out talking and laughing.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Group 1 drawing</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0_v2DU-U6-N8LSbgKp-cBPPLmzKlIJ8HYi4RJTQv3OXdasH2A-74zNmY2hyltu0ahHZyDwvBSlCSU_xAFjYygVCHsENqw2_tib9gxWzYWLyQFP8lHIds-dDLPtiHBZOlgZgf28nQUIyy/s1600/IMG_4601.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc0_v2DU-U6-N8LSbgKp-cBPPLmzKlIJ8HYi4RJTQv3OXdasH2A-74zNmY2hyltu0ahHZyDwvBSlCSU_xAFjYygVCHsENqw2_tib9gxWzYWLyQFP8lHIds-dDLPtiHBZOlgZgf28nQUIyy/s320/IMG_4601.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hala</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYcH4G0URawVoZJ2XKgZvS-ObLeeByjexWDghBL-FOhXnDwqN53KHz0QzHofrlXrrQoyMonUvMzmr-eofFolJgdkz_FSoaTmMS_348f_0-hdEcpNvuf2CS9o0-IUq_GoXfUbyStd_4cVGl/s1600/IMG_4679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYcH4G0URawVoZJ2XKgZvS-ObLeeByjexWDghBL-FOhXnDwqN53KHz0QzHofrlXrrQoyMonUvMzmr-eofFolJgdkz_FSoaTmMS_348f_0-hdEcpNvuf2CS9o0-IUq_GoXfUbyStd_4cVGl/s320/IMG_4679.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hussien</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfKDLXO46wZJ_56qKiNsBCdDusZaTeAWtMGMhxcpS22-U5daRNuQIXHSM5cRWnKig95QC-TCXHWWdkZKzC8tV7ILQLTcHspNhj5AYB-WC44ndBODiOFYQA1CUsJwfCnRZF3WbVEgNtBeYT/s1600/IMG_4667_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="1600" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfKDLXO46wZJ_56qKiNsBCdDusZaTeAWtMGMhxcpS22-U5daRNuQIXHSM5cRWnKig95QC-TCXHWWdkZKzC8tV7ILQLTcHspNhj5AYB-WC44ndBODiOFYQA1CUsJwfCnRZF3WbVEgNtBeYT/s320/IMG_4667_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rasha</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7B1FmJsJX2_nngiPKSxr8JjZYN1dphULFrs262IPfDNHh_Piv6gSw-icZjmX7q2ufxOMpph6H0SeiYeeNdY6mcu4Q5pIFMiMLu_4dMg89UWlh0fIyQRv8cQpj79WKrLdk6N1qLSApFV2T/s1600/IMG_4668_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1239" data-original-width="1600" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7B1FmJsJX2_nngiPKSxr8JjZYN1dphULFrs262IPfDNHh_Piv6gSw-icZjmX7q2ufxOMpph6H0SeiYeeNdY6mcu4Q5pIFMiMLu_4dMg89UWlh0fIyQRv8cQpj79WKrLdk6N1qLSApFV2T/s320/IMG_4668_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Safaa</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjpTEgibQy0_st5hg5ayYeeXPb0bQAS0rYkYjde3B65K3tKGHWpF4Bc0GT1ytsMU-UHvfoftT03QqBY7GmESJitzfPmQPOx9Hzn-b9LQFIN5K3rYT5MnTNkTtOTQoob2slx0xoNfqR6aeG/s1600/IMG_4604.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjpTEgibQy0_st5hg5ayYeeXPb0bQAS0rYkYjde3B65K3tKGHWpF4Bc0GT1ytsMU-UHvfoftT03QqBY7GmESJitzfPmQPOx9Hzn-b9LQFIN5K3rYT5MnTNkTtOTQoob2slx0xoNfqR6aeG/s320/IMG_4604.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Walid</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqF4EmgM5xAQeSaTjslCxfWa4w59P7LndcaiNSZbUVT9c5Yr_44df-3hEibHIEgQXOGZQrXtRPyhmz_QguyTcb3Q0apLSBP0Rv-mGKLMxk23vWCiS1UbOEi8f65QN4XH2v0zGYP8rS_u-/s1600/IMG_4611_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1293" data-original-width="1600" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivqF4EmgM5xAQeSaTjslCxfWa4w59P7LndcaiNSZbUVT9c5Yr_44df-3hEibHIEgQXOGZQrXtRPyhmz_QguyTcb3Q0apLSBP0Rv-mGKLMxk23vWCiS1UbOEi8f65QN4XH2v0zGYP8rS_u-/s320/IMG_4611_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mario</b></td></tr>
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Monday was our long day working on site, until 3pm, so that
Group 2 could have the extra time in the tomb and Group 1 drawing at the tent.
Fortunately, today was a much cooler day than the last time we did this, last
week, as the temperatures only reached about 85F/30C. Now that each group had
had 3 solid days in either the tomb or tent, both Group 1 and Group 2 have
gotten an equal amount of time doing epigraphy in the tomb and drawing objects
and pottery in the tent with Yaser. We are clearly in the home stretch! <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOTccJ1S4DtYBZijRzcqIm837wYQ9OLHdTSnX5IPwg903cG6iknHiGV37MWxirTnn8VEjFNa_-0Wz4fPhX1myIKpLbSaFT3wgocXdXBuGp-qiqdavUick_cWgQ5ASlu0wXixNns0z2bSO7/s1600/IMG_4620_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1398" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOTccJ1S4DtYBZijRzcqIm837wYQ9OLHdTSnX5IPwg903cG6iknHiGV37MWxirTnn8VEjFNa_-0Wz4fPhX1myIKpLbSaFT3wgocXdXBuGp-qiqdavUick_cWgQ5ASlu0wXixNns0z2bSO7/s320/IMG_4620_crop.jpg" width="279" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mina, waiting to draw</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-7qbLp0N7hATuUmimxAM-p6HfrDfsiLbg7AyUmwJ7kg6JjrNN4Ob0jkQh2VzFA8qKnzTFAdBLqEbPdXvAUDbxT0gjrgXbrFPcKRdWlaT2bpz0xGomMtvpykWSSnQc9qPij7j4vRYYo43/s1600/IMG_4870_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1533" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2-7qbLp0N7hATuUmimxAM-p6HfrDfsiLbg7AyUmwJ7kg6JjrNN4Ob0jkQh2VzFA8qKnzTFAdBLqEbPdXvAUDbxT0gjrgXbrFPcKRdWlaT2bpz0xGomMtvpykWSSnQc9qPij7j4vRYYo43/s320/IMG_4870_crop.jpg" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Measuring Hussien's neck</b></td></tr>
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Tuesday the groups changed places, with Group 1 coming back
into the tomb for its final day of epigraphy, and Group 2 with Yaser, who gave
them several different pottery sherds and objects to draw to see how well they
understood the methodology. At second breakfast we were treated to a surprise:
a delightful spread prepared by Hala and Rehab consisting of tuna béchamel,
goulash (minced meat-filled filo pie), and breaded chicken cutlets! It was all
brought over specially from the east so that it would be warm, and everyone
dove into eating the food so quickly that it was nearly all gone before one
could blink! Which meant that the only photo that we could take of the feast
was of the aftermath. We also had a visit from Dina Bakhoum, who has worked
with ARCE at the Red Monastery in Sohag on site management and heritage
preservation. She kindly delivered the students’ certificates to us (thank
you!), and we had a lovely time chatting about her work and showing her the
field school. At the end of the day, everyone piled into one bus to head for the
boat as the students were going to Chicago House with Yaser to look at and
discuss published examples of pottery and object drawings. The boat took the
students directly to Chicago House, and Will and JJ jumped off mid-way, bidding
farewell and heading off to lunch. When we stopped by Chicago House afterwards,
around 3:30, they were still hard at work.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<b>Group 2 drawing</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPArAYuAroJGm2VLX9TYzEBRGzA6lBbpiNIR7xLmZMKfsMXSLVIdwXdi3aItxJjClxocPSckKxWyHZ-a_qEfcLaUcHyUcA_f-Te_rte3QuwdZkxVL6ypi7zCygOrNrfhspefMt9XCIcEE/s1600/IMG_4629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBPArAYuAroJGm2VLX9TYzEBRGzA6lBbpiNIR7xLmZMKfsMXSLVIdwXdi3aItxJjClxocPSckKxWyHZ-a_qEfcLaUcHyUcA_f-Te_rte3QuwdZkxVL6ypi7zCygOrNrfhspefMt9XCIcEE/s320/IMG_4629.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Amira</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxu3eP8p7Nt3cTZxNgzFFfxURNlnKeHHXBK_uHJm4EYuYb-Qbo8BVhZWbdxFwaKQfjxO5lXxubo4XPhDadLO3LzzPR7JiU_7M9yoMF6YlSoeSfZ1Ga_eLHkz36F_nFpoZTwcLBhX9XVGI/s1600/IMG_4626_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1236" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHxu3eP8p7Nt3cTZxNgzFFfxURNlnKeHHXBK_uHJm4EYuYb-Qbo8BVhZWbdxFwaKQfjxO5lXxubo4XPhDadLO3LzzPR7JiU_7M9yoMF6YlSoeSfZ1Ga_eLHkz36F_nFpoZTwcLBhX9XVGI/s320/IMG_4626_crop.jpg" width="247" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Alaa Talaat</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeawCPspZrbMF1w020CYrYArw5m7BbalVs6sVdCtaXT98Uwopfx0qZBdHDKWPFmokDd7JUoH1hMIdst3kLv6sx1xVPPt9FD72629Osl1VEVAX9eWe_-8YWNJXSWVwGi4vsCGKqEuKmYjxY/s1600/IMG_4635_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1242" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeawCPspZrbMF1w020CYrYArw5m7BbalVs6sVdCtaXT98Uwopfx0qZBdHDKWPFmokDd7JUoH1hMIdst3kLv6sx1xVPPt9FD72629Osl1VEVAX9eWe_-8YWNJXSWVwGi4vsCGKqEuKmYjxY/s320/IMG_4635_crop.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rehab</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy7RFDPXeee3x9bBy-dhc9idtz7BQWCzhT0DvxZTvHjNn5L4wOXgJXY8aiZoUfVg0I8t3CFHlrrF_i_LHMwLEyBtllOxKxIN8-RuwyEYQ9afNRlDMmNxNgDIOwUC-LHYThtjDT5xqhyVsL/s1600/IMG_4633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy7RFDPXeee3x9bBy-dhc9idtz7BQWCzhT0DvxZTvHjNn5L4wOXgJXY8aiZoUfVg0I8t3CFHlrrF_i_LHMwLEyBtllOxKxIN8-RuwyEYQ9afNRlDMmNxNgDIOwUC-LHYThtjDT5xqhyVsL/s320/IMG_4633.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Ahmed ElNasseh</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia7pYWPYknt2H22CqPLM_BNZCMrKrtixEBk4uWa860oFGikbaqs5KEgJk3Pb1_a1UraT4o6_KN2G6OIfjPLbayvCqqhvNJAd4cdMoPH-LSyxNibvLkyYd29qSayyBwAV9jAx5Qkbn0yLwM/s1600/IMG_4638_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1530" data-original-width="1600" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia7pYWPYknt2H22CqPLM_BNZCMrKrtixEBk4uWa860oFGikbaqs5KEgJk3Pb1_a1UraT4o6_KN2G6OIfjPLbayvCqqhvNJAd4cdMoPH-LSyxNibvLkyYd29qSayyBwAV9jAx5Qkbn0yLwM/s320/IMG_4638_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mahmoud</b></td></tr>
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<b>Alaa Talaat demonstrating object drawing with a electrical plug!</b></div>
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On Wednesday the students switched back again, so Group 2 could
have its last day in the tomb and Group 1 be given a similar group of objects
to test their drawing skills. Yaser was quite pleased with the overall results
of his “exam”, and Will and JJ are relieved to have the two stelae and the cavetto
cornice of the false door completely drawn thanks to the herculean efforts of our
students, as well as the band of inscription above the Hatshepsut kiosk and a
sample khekher frieze thanks to Sayed. Will and JJ joined Keli and Hilary for
dinner at the amazing Thai pop-up restaurant tucked away amongst the narrow
side streets of Luxor, and followed it with dessert at “Winkies”, a
German/Italian ice-cream hangout. Another hidden gem of Luxor.</div>
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<b>Ahmed proudly displays the last drawing of the tomb!</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIZ487lqdeI9MxI2vwOC5nlsE9tvplVVsj3AJKZU0jG_vSObo51knywNPlciuq4fHf3KR7qQD6wws5LHFyw2270zQnHaPRUhKjFt7qoTlxOuxekB61lC0DtbRO1cKkTAj0i5368Q6-0tTU/s1600/IMG_4876_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1172" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIZ487lqdeI9MxI2vwOC5nlsE9tvplVVsj3AJKZU0jG_vSObo51knywNPlciuq4fHf3KR7qQD6wws5LHFyw2270zQnHaPRUhKjFt7qoTlxOuxekB61lC0DtbRO1cKkTAj0i5368Q6-0tTU/s400/IMG_4876_crop.jpg" width="292" /></a></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8atgqrpF_rQq1Q4pqbG56xSzXYGUhWkAZpURupq10o_Cii1pC5V5_Jq9H2230jLPhoNz53CFRO-cmHObsqD3k7wP5Eo5-T6b1ZavBIxJDhzDfwgludYxHtdE23qhmGI1cc3ikfTvStlHS/s1600/IMG_4701_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1297" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8atgqrpF_rQq1Q4pqbG56xSzXYGUhWkAZpURupq10o_Cii1pC5V5_Jq9H2230jLPhoNz53CFRO-cmHObsqD3k7wP5Eo5-T6b1ZavBIxJDhzDfwgludYxHtdE23qhmGI1cc3ikfTvStlHS/s400/IMG_4701_crop.jpg" width="323" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Group 2 upon completion of their drawing</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihoEHqjhtGO-9KHBUqmDM9dfGEs8NfdFNCvnr-EBE7ptw68IbZbQcD4f4ECHK77dQyKDzd3H7Dk681Dv1dM-RDMUhZuiY6o8SFAiyw4OhzSN75zyYPye_IEIK4qfe8IinnLxULC9KI-GI_/s1600/IMG_4649_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1364" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihoEHqjhtGO-9KHBUqmDM9dfGEs8NfdFNCvnr-EBE7ptw68IbZbQcD4f4ECHK77dQyKDzd3H7Dk681Dv1dM-RDMUhZuiY6o8SFAiyw4OhzSN75zyYPye_IEIK4qfe8IinnLxULC9KI-GI_/s400/IMG_4649_crop.jpg" width="340" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Group 1 upon completion of their drawing</b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsOnTwk4bNezQrgHh6cUz7E_oLhTB8w7xBcJeqbS3MBGzpU2bTmJJ2V_YB9yIsyaiCKbxyjKUnYVX5_n-fhCYM1jtfby-Y9yqjvQHMzWKKqYx5xHHvWTRAgHgQNBS-XtJRgj0T_qQCNph/s1600/IMG_4828_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="269" data-original-width="358" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKsOnTwk4bNezQrgHh6cUz7E_oLhTB8w7xBcJeqbS3MBGzpU2bTmJJ2V_YB9yIsyaiCKbxyjKUnYVX5_n-fhCYM1jtfby-Y9yqjvQHMzWKKqYx5xHHvWTRAgHgQNBS-XtJRgj0T_qQCNph/s400/IMG_4828_crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Thursday marked the last day of the field school. The day
began much as any other, but by the end everyone was feeling the emotions of
the occasion. Fortunately, all work had been effectively finished the day
before, so as the temperatures began to go up yet again, we needed only to
focus on the cleaning and collation of the students’ drawings. During this time
Will, Sayed, Yaser, and JJ also met with the students individually to provide them
each with an evaluation and assessment of their epigraphy and drawing skills. This
essentially took us to the end of the day, with Mr. Will and Sayed posing the
students for the “graduation” photo with their choice of an example of their
work, a tradition that was begun at the first field school in 2015. You can
view the results on the “Graduation Photos” page! As you can well imagine, this
was not the end of the photographic endeavor. Group photos were taken inside
and outside of the tomb one last time for the field school of 2018. The
students clammored into the bus, with Will, JJ, Sayed, and Yaser being dropped
off at Marsam for the last of the season’s staff meetings, while the others
continued on their way to the east. Hazem stayed at the site a little longer,
breaking down the tents, and packing up all of our materials to be sent back
east on the truck, joining us at Marsam a little later.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtYGcQ4XfOlyCqqzBWXMYk8c0mLxaBZ0I6lMtZlH8kGqLCSt956LEsd2Q6r64_XEwGDedBbEBclmTbOueWG6KhqKnLqE7rFUz6IAt_V3AAMihCfk5SKo_-eLlUc2s8MpczFEMal8PXeYM/s1600/IMG_4717.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRtYGcQ4XfOlyCqqzBWXMYk8c0mLxaBZ0I6lMtZlH8kGqLCSt956LEsd2Q6r64_XEwGDedBbEBclmTbOueWG6KhqKnLqE7rFUz6IAt_V3AAMihCfk5SKo_-eLlUc2s8MpczFEMal8PXeYM/s400/IMG_4717.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Final breakfast and tea</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyFEsAFt8QQFEZbLz5zTA4gbwWhW9KElv-Zcfqp45SHbVFrs2FhSNh0_Zr032f3IvX3m9NQzXem-u-1jS3U7n31rmUZSZj5HfNeK6_7vijIdQs2sY9bTfxiEmtoaddnYWwdi4F5Qe3hD4e/s1600/IMG_4786_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1239" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyFEsAFt8QQFEZbLz5zTA4gbwWhW9KElv-Zcfqp45SHbVFrs2FhSNh0_Zr032f3IvX3m9NQzXem-u-1jS3U7n31rmUZSZj5HfNeK6_7vijIdQs2sY9bTfxiEmtoaddnYWwdi4F5Qe3hD4e/s640/IMG_4786_crop.jpg" width="492" /></a></div>
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<b>Final Group Photos</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMlTyzXcQLgQQvVQ_C_Qw6941rwqT67dOjjwTqKojwIxsCkjYQ9mi2SNs7jYziS6ZgCMPEtlQ1l-JS9I6cbX9PhIs4J1VzDeeK0Pk7kRBgR0Ss5cKJqH2e1YmqCoQEz-s3DzkP4u4sJk7D/s1600/IMG_4794_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1353" data-original-width="1600" height="540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMlTyzXcQLgQQvVQ_C_Qw6941rwqT67dOjjwTqKojwIxsCkjYQ9mi2SNs7jYziS6ZgCMPEtlQ1l-JS9I6cbX9PhIs4J1VzDeeK0Pk7kRBgR0Ss5cKJqH2e1YmqCoQEz-s3DzkP4u4sJk7D/s640/IMG_4794_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>The Final Boat Ride home</b></div>
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The evening ended with a marvelous sunset boat trip arranged
by Yaser and his family, with Will, JJ, Sayed, and Hazem all joining them.
Yaser’s wife Manal brought pastries, tea, and sodas for us all to share. It was
a lovely way to round out a long and exhausting day, to unwind and relax
together on the Nile as dusk descended to the calls of the mullahs
from the numerous minarets lining the river. It seemed to be over before we
knew it, and the boat was docking at our long familiar pier. Goodbyes exchanged
but still the knowledge that we had one more day to see each other before
seriously saying goodbye for another season.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Lamar, the newest addition to Yaser's family</b></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-73157558564853861182018-03-10T10:58:00.000-08:002018-03-10T20:50:31.896-08:00ElKab Field Trip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Instead of our usual Friday spent working at Chicago House, and
partaking of the lunch buffet, and despite that the temperatures are toping 105F/40C,
we had arranged from the beginning that this would be the Friday of the school’s
field trip to ElKab. As in the past, you’ll remember that we’ve taken the
students to Gebel el-Silsilah, Hierakonpolis, and Abydos, where we’ve always
tried to incorporate a degree of epigraphy and teaching as well as fun. And that
was yet again the case. ElKab is an extraordinary site, including New Kingdom
rock-cut tombs, and the Wadi Hillal which leads to a small barque way-station
dating to Amenhotep III, as well as hundreds, if not thousands, of
rock-carvings all along the cliffs dating from all periods of Egyptian history.
ElKab is an epigraphic paradise!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4l4NhDxz5aCpCPoJKGLC7v-j9cNMeXYUO-yHVWtF2tLK6_VYxgCeDJM2wMkP6jVimVaJWSRKNDHVjcj74Nzlf5Jvdxx5cby5P6Sjs5yiGUMb3xrN_3PEol8MlJwvWzoICfkPnWwQpnUGL/s1600/IMG_4497_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="1600" height="440" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4l4NhDxz5aCpCPoJKGLC7v-j9cNMeXYUO-yHVWtF2tLK6_VYxgCeDJM2wMkP6jVimVaJWSRKNDHVjcj74Nzlf5Jvdxx5cby5P6Sjs5yiGUMb3xrN_3PEol8MlJwvWzoICfkPnWwQpnUGL/s640/IMG_4497_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<o:p> <b>View towards the New Kingdom tombs of ElKab</b></o:p></div>
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<o:p><b><br /></b></o:p></div>
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Since ElKab is a few hours drive south of Luxor, and we wanted
to start the day before the worst of the heat, we collected everyone by 6:30 am. We also planned a slight variation from what we have done in the past.
We had invited our students from the previous field schools to join us, and
three of them – Abu el-Hagag, Mahmoud Hassan, and Nadia Latef – were able to do
so. In addition, seeing as our colleague Ana Tavares is working on the salvage
and rescue excavations at Kom Ombo, and where our former student Sayed el-Rekaby
is participating, we invited them to rendezvous with us at ElKab at 9 am. Kom Ombo
is fairly close to Elkab, located just a little to the north, so since we are
to the south we were able to meet in the middle, as it were. However, we did
need to collect one of our students en route, as Mahmoud lives in Esna he
joined us at about 7:30, bearing an enormous crate of fresh yousef effendi and
mos (bananas). Apparently, the Esna mos are thought to be the best in Egypt by
other Egyptians, so therefore there was much rejoicing when Mahmoud arrived
with his crate, and they did indeed prove to be very delicious! Yaser had
organized that we be joined by one of the ElKab inspectors who was a friend and
colleague from previous field schools, Mr. Ashraf Harb, who yet again we collected
along the main road, and thanks to his local knowledge we were all able to take
a mini-break just before reaching ElKab at a local tea and coffee shop. Orders of
shai and gahwa (tea and Egyptian coffee) were taken, and biscuits brought out,
but because they normally don’t get tour buses stopping the half-dozen coffee
cups had to be relayed around the group. So it took somewhat longer than we might
have expected, which turned out to be fortunate as it allowed us to fine-tune
our arrival at ElKab to the same moment as Ana and Sayed el-Rekaby, who were
accompanied by another of the Kom Ombo team, Hassan el-Atar,<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b>a colleague of Sayed el-Rekaby.<br />
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Arriving at ElKab everyone piled out of the minibus to greet
Sayed, and Will was particularly pleased to see Ana, who is an old and
dear friend from the Giza field school days, and in fact she was the individual
who talked Will into teaching the illustration component of the AERA field
schools back in the mid-2000s! Because of Ana’s involvement in
creating the AERA field schools, we had visited her in Giza at the very beginning
of our field school journey, before our first season had even begun to ask for
any pointers and advice she might give us regarding what we had got ourselves
into! So, it was nice to show her the outcome and current crop of students.
After all the greetings had been made, and the obligatory group photos taken,
everyone piled back onto the buses to head up the wadi. The plan was to travel
by bus all the way to the furthest point, and begin our visit at the chapel of
Amenhotep III. We had provided the students with hand-outs, which we distributed
on the bus, of some of the published epigraphic examples of not only the
chapel, but also the New Kingdom tombs, so that they would be able to take
notes and make comments for future reference.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Boys' Group</b></div>
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<b>Girls' Group</b></div>
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<b>TT 110 Field School with our Kom Ombo friends</b></div>
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We arrived without any mishaps up the desert track at the Amenhotep
III chapel which stands in splendid isolation very much as it would have been
in antiquity. Because it has been known for centuries, and was never actually
buried by the sands, it is covered in both ancient and modern graffiti from
travelers, some of which dates back as far as the early 1800s. Because of it accessibility,
it was planned, photographed, and drawn in the 1890s by J.J. Tylor and Somers
Clarke, and it was these early examples of epigraphy which we had provided to
the students to critique. Considering the early date of the project the results
were exceptionally good, making it easy to see just what ancient remains they
had seen and where modern additions to the site had been made. It is also epigraphically
interesting due to the fact that although built by Amenhotep III, it was
restored in ancient times, first by Seti I who added his name and re-carved the Amarna destruction, and then again under
the Ptolemies, who re-painted and re-carved the images of the goddess Nekhbet. The original publication has an excellent section-elevation showing
the placement of the scenes in conjunction with the architecture, something
unheard of at the time. And lo-and-behold, it turned out to have been drawn by
the young Howard Carter, on one of his first assignments in Egypt, while
working for the EEF, and well before his heady days as the discoverer of
Tutankhamun’s tomb. An amazing example of just how far ahead of his times he
was, if any further evidence was necessary.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Amenhotep III Chapel</b></div>
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<b>Graffiti on the paving slabs around the chapel</b><br />
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After finishing at the chapel, we headed down into the wadi by
foot in search of rock-carvings, with Yaser leading the way and directing the
students’ attention to an extraordinary collection of petroglyphs from all periods
hidden along the back of an outcropping that we would otherwise have driven by.
Both Yaser and Sayed el-Rekaby discussed the inscriptions with the students,
with Sayed who has experience drawing this type of material form his work at
Silsilah, explaining his methodology. We carried on towards the legendary “Vulture
Rock”, famed for the unprecedented number of carvings located in one single
place. The rock juts up from the wadi almost like a galleon under full-sail, with many
points at which we might board in order to climb up to look at the inscriptions
at close range. The students, again led by Yaser, clambered up, down, and
around the complete circumference of the rock, finding images as diverse as Predynastic
boats, herds of giraffe, oryx, gazelle, antelope, and cattle, while interspersed
were hundreds of hieroglyphic inscriptions, many dating to the Old Kingdom, and
later more elaborate New Kingdom and Graeco-Roman inscriptions, highlighting
the long tradition of pilgrims and travelers frequenting the Wadi Hillal.</div>
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<b>Yaser speaking about the rock inscriptions</b></div>
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<b>Sayed el-Rekaby explaining drawing techniques for rock inscriptions</b></div>
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<b>Heading to Vulture Rock</b></div>
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<b>Boat and Animal Petroglyph</b></div>
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At this point we re-boarded the buses, which, thanks to
clever organizational planning, were there to collect us, so that we could resume
our journey down the wadi, stopping briefly at a Ramesside and Graeco-Roman sanctuary,
terraced and built into the cliffside, along with a small chapel dedicated to
Thoth. Seeing as it was approaching noon, we needed to be back at the rest
house so that there would be the opportunity for noonday prayers and a chance to
have a brief break before ascending the cliff to look at the rock-cut New Kingdom
tombs. Although 4 of the tombs are open, we chose to focus on 2 of them, where
there was a strong familial association and published epigraphy that we could
critique. These were the tombs of Paheri, which was drawn initially by J.J. Tylor, and Paheri’s grandfather, Ahmose son of Ibana. Ahmose’s tomb has recently been re-examined and drawn
by Vivian Davies, the former Keeper of the Department of Egypt and the Sudan at
the British Museum, who has worked for many years at ElKab and just happens to
be married to Renee Friedman, whose work across the river at the twin site of Hierakonpolis
(ancient Nekhen) you will remember we visited on a previous field trip. The
Elkab tombs provide an excellent comparison for our own TT110, as while the
scene types are similar, the architecture is different, needing to conform to
the sandstone cliffside found at Elkab, as opposed to the limestone gebel we have
in Thebes. In ElKab, rather than the Theban “T-shaped” tomb, we have decorated single-room
tombs with vaulted ceilings and undecorated side chambers leading to the burial
shaft. As a result, the students were able to understand how the ancient Egyptians utilized
a smaller wall space to contain all the necessary images for presenting the
life of the tomb owner and the requirements for the afterlife. The tombs also
provided the students with an excellent comparison for who was able to have decorated
rock-cut tombs in an important provincial town, in this case largely the local
elite of the area, who were also part of family groups who controlled the
highest local government and temple positions. In terms of the epigraphy, in the
tomb of Paheri there was a serious fissure or crack running through the tomb,
which had been drawn in the 19th century, but the students noted that there
were details from some scenes near the crack in the drawings which were not on
the wall. This led to a discussion regarding why this might be the case;
whether Tylor had reconstructed the scenes, or identified fragments which may
have joined and drew them accordingly, or possibly the crack had widened and
these details had been lost in subsequent years. This drew attention to how
important epigraphy can be through time, because without these drawings from
the 1890s we would have potentially lost this information. In the tomb of Ahmose
son of Ibana, there was a peculiar situation of half-finished walls where part
of the background stone had been removed in order to create sunk and raised
relief. This work was clearly unfinished in that you could still see evidence of
the painted grid guidelines over many of the scenes, and the carving, where it
occurred on some walls, was very rough. In contrast, one completed scene of the
tomb owner was extant, with both raised and sunk relief, and paint. The students
became intrigued with how best to depict this unusual and complicated situation.
Fortunately, Will had actually inked the drawings for Vivian prior to
publication, but had not seen the tomb, working instead from notes and
photographs. He devised a system of conventions which seemed suitable allowing
for both the unfinished as well as the completed scenes, incorporating dashed
and dotted as well as solid lines, and leaving out the damage entirely. The
students seemed highly skeptical regarding this system, and when confronted,
Will admitted that were he to draw it today he may have decided on a different
set of conventions. There was a sense of unspoken agreement from the students,
further evidence of the degree of self-confidence they have gained regarding
epigraphic decisions in the course of the field school.</div>
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<b>Ramesside / Graeco-Roman sanctuary</b></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
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<b>Will and Ana</b></div>
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Hot, tired, and hungry, an end was put to further questions,
or we would still be in the tomb of Ahmose son of Ibana today! We retired to the
rest house for a well-earned picnic lunch. It was all hands to the pumps as the
food magically appeared from the buses, mats were spread out on the floor of the
rest house, plates, cutlery, mounds of bread were spread so that all could sit
cross-legged on the floor together as a group. Following the meal, the guards
brought everyone shai bil nanaa (tea with fresh mint), and our guest Inspector brought
traditional pastries, which was much appreciated by the group. The festive
atmosphere continued through mass, hysterical group photographing of all and
sundry before we needed to separate to our 2 respective buses and resume our
return journeys in opposite directions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Although everyone was tired, we found time for much
merriment and more teaching on the bus. Sayed devised a game involving
answering questions about drawing pottery and objects, or epigraphy, and within
30 seconds someone needed to describe the steps involved, with the reward being
a Cadburys chocolate bar! This boisterous, chaotic, teaching tool proved an
effective distraction so that we were on the outskirts of Luxor, dropping
people off one-by-one before we knew it! Home in just 2 hours. It was a
marvelous day; hot, tired, dusty, but buzzing, we all decamped in Luxor knowing
we all needed to be up early the next morning to return to work, but also
excited to get back to drawing.<br />
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-65767432859635920292018-03-08T10:57:00.001-08:002018-03-08T10:57:24.985-08:00Field School Week 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Saturday found Mudira JJ back on site, much to everyone’s
relief and delight! However, Yaser had left us for Abydos to begin his field
school there, much to everyone in Luxor’s dismay. Since our students couldn’t
do any pottery or object drawing with Yaser away, we decided that while Group 1
returned to work with Mr. Will and Sayed in the tomb, Group 2 would head up the
mountain with JJ and Hazem to get a better sense of the tombs dating to
Hatshepsut, especially those of Senenmut and Senimen, that are found on the
southern end of Qurna, just above TT110. JJ and her group returned back in time
for second breakfast and a visit from Egyptology graduate students Taylor Dean
(Memphis) and Vicky Jensen (Berkeley). As we were finishing up, Dr. Hesham Elleithy,
General Director of the Antiquities Documentation Center, whom JJ had met at
her EES lecture, arrived for a visit. He met all the students and we chatted at
length about the various projects the Documentation Center is undertaking,
particularly the re-organization of the antiquities storage magazines. After
the visits, Group 1 returned to the tomb while JJ headed back across the hills
with Group 2, this time leading them to Deir el-Bahari, Hatshepsut’s “Temple of
Millions of Years”, to examine the obelisk transport and Punt scenes depicted on
the southern terraces, both of which include the names and figures of some of
Hatshepsut’s officials, as well as the adjacent Hathor Chapel. Upon Group 2’s
return to the site, JJ discovered that Ahmed el-Hajaj, our inspector and
student form the 2016 field school, had come to surprise us with a visit! He
had traveled all the way from Hurghada, on the Red Sea coast, where he is
now based, just to see us. It was a wonderful reunion, with much rejoicing, for
everyone, and it was particularly pleasurable to show him the work that the new
students are completing in the tomb. In the course of this visit we realized that
the field school’s 2018 logo is actually based on the winged solar disk that Ahmed
had been responsible for drawing in the tomb.</div>
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<b>Group shot with Ahmed el-Hajaj</b></div>
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<b>Group shot with Taylor Deane</b></div>
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<b>Groups 1 (below) and 2 (above) at the Davies House</b></div>
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On Sunday, we switched the groups, so that Group 2 could spend
the day drawing in the tomb and Group 1 could benefit from the walking tour of
tombs and Deir el-Bahari. As with Saturday, we were joined at second breakfast
by visitors. This time it was our friends and colleagues Luigi Prada from
Oxford and Copenhagen (who some of you will recall visited us back in 2015),
and Suzanne Woodhouse, the librarian at the Griffith Institute, Oxford. They
had just finished their season working at Elkab and were in Luxor for a few
days before heading back to England. In addition, Afifi Rohim arrived with some
colleagues who are working with him in the Western Valley in order to visit our
work. It was again particularly gratifying to be able to show Afifi the field
school in action seeing as he and Will had worked together at the initial AERA
field school many years ago at Giza. Visits concluded, JJ once again led her group
off to Deir el-Bahari whilst Will and his group continued in the tomb. We
re-joined Luigi later that night for dinner and drinks, and, as with Marco,
seeing as Luigi is (half) Italian, we felt it to be obligatory that we take him
to Pizza Roma (any excuse for a cold beer!).</div>
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<b>Afifi Rohim's visit</b></div>
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<b>JJ, Luigi, and Will</b></div>
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<b>Group 1 as Osiride statues</b><br />
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Seeing as Yaser was still away for one more day, and each
group had now had both walkabouts and tomb-time, we took Monday “off” in order
to see and visit various of our colleagues work on the west bank. After morning
teas and coffees at the Medinet Habu café, we headed into the Medinet Habu
temple, where the Chicago House team of Egyptologist/epigrapher Jen Kimpton and
artist Keli Alberts are continuing to work at the western high gate, where we had
visited them 2 years ago. They have made remarkable progress since then in understanding
the architecture and decoration of this badly destroyed area. Our merry band of
students, after a variety of group photo opportunities, packed into a single minibus
in order to head to TT 125, the tomb of Duawyneheh, who was an important
official during Hatshepsut’s reign. The students were given a tour of the work
by Dr. Sanaa Ahmed Ali, who had kindly invited our field school to stop by after
JJ’s visit earlier in the season. By then it was time for second breakfast, but
seeing as we had given Abu Hamada and Mohammed the day off, we had a somewhat
surreal breakfast in a derelict shanty on the edge of Dra Abu el-Naga,
where an amazing breakfast of eggs, fuul, tamaya, potates, salat, and aish was
whipped up from what looked to be no more than a single ring burner. With sodas
being brought in on request, appearing as if by magic from somewhere beyond the
table area. Our poor driver Mohammed was shuttling everyone about, as two of
our students left before breakfast to head to the teftish at Luxor Temple to sort
out paperwork, and just as he returned to the breakfast spot JJ and Sayed left (missing
out on the sodas!) to meet up with the Director of the EES, Dr. C<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">é</span>dric Gobeil, seeing as Sayed was just granted
a Centenary Award by the EES, and Cedric was interested in seeing the tomb
(Qurnet Murai TT 382 of Usermontu) that Sayed would be working on with his
grant. Whilst this was happening, Mohammed went back to retrieve the rest of the
group, and Mr. Will, from breakfast and take them over to our former student
Mahmoud’s tomb, TT 172 of Montuiywy, which is conveniently located near TT110. Having
deposited them, Mohammed turned around to head back to Qurnet Murai so that JJ
and Sayed could be collected and brought over to TT172. By the time the day was
done and everyone dropped at the ferry, poor Mohammed had made half-a-dozen trips
round the west bank!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Bobsey Twins!</b></div>
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<b>At Medinet Habu with Jen Kimpton (above) and Keli Alberts (below)</b></div>
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<b>Safaa and Sayed</b></div>
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<b>At the Eastern Gate of Medinet Habu</b><br />
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<b>Outside TT 125 with Dr. Sanaa</b><br />
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On Tuesday Yaser returned to work at the tomb so we were able
to divide the groups again so that Group 1 began a 3-day stint drawing in the
tomb, and Group 2 began 3 days of object illustration with Yaser. JJ meanwhile,
spent the morning preparing for her lecture at Karnak, as she had been invited
to give a talk for the Scientific Center for Research at Karnak. Rather than
speak about the field school, which you may recall we had done in November, she
gave an edited version of the talk she had given in Cairo at the EES. This
topic was of interest not only for our Egyptian colleagues, but also for
several from foreign missions, so it was a well-attended lecture. Unbeknownst to JJ, Moamen had arranged that it be streamed live
(with varying degrees of success) by Luxor Times, so colleagues who were unable
to attend could follow along, at least to some degree. Both groups
drawing on site were able to benefit from a long and uninterrupted day to really
make headway with their work. Several of the students in Group 1 have completed
their first A3 size sheets, and the others made excellent progress. The
students in the tent with Yaser likewise began to draw a variety of objects chosen
by Yaser so as to understand the need for top plans, elevations, and sections,
making object drawing somewhat different from pottery drawing. At the end of
the work day, Will, JJ, and the staff met for lunch at 3pm with our friend
and colleague Affifi Rohim, so as to have a chance to properly catch up. Afifi is so busy with his own work in the Western Valley, as we are with the field
school, that we knew without a proper plan we would miss each other before
leaving at the end of the field season. We spent a lovely afternoon at a
favorite establishment in the souk (market), Om Hasham, which proved to be a
2-story, air-conditioned, emporium of Egyptian delicacies, some of the best
traditional food we had tasted in Luxor. The lunch was topped off with coffees
and teas at Om Khalthum, a famous local watering hole in the souk which has been there for generations and is a local landmark. Will and JJ left the boys
and Afifi to return home so that JJ could get cleaned up and ready to go out for
an “Epigraphy Girls” night initiated by our former student Shaimaa, at 7pm. JJ and the girls all met up at a local restaurant along the Nile, Eltagdif Club, for fresh
juices and ice cream, spending a wonderful 2 hours chatting and laughing, and
generally leaving work behind. It was the first time JJ had spent an evening
out with just her female students, and we had such fun that we all agreed to do
it at least once more before the end of the school.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRLzas9FRzRQfQ72LSn1jbosfvY3KzM6n_iklsGcd7ygMglA1HtCTESxc8jwg0fb0XDLtJqnckK47YOtjvTYK7G7cb83RUScoDARxYThTmbHzVnl2EXLCHCpfsMNMEDYSQFgndAI0yEhLp/s1600/IMG_4278_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="630" data-original-width="868" height="464" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRLzas9FRzRQfQ72LSn1jbosfvY3KzM6n_iklsGcd7ygMglA1HtCTESxc8jwg0fb0XDLtJqnckK47YOtjvTYK7G7cb83RUScoDARxYThTmbHzVnl2EXLCHCpfsMNMEDYSQFgndAI0yEhLp/s640/IMG_4278_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>JJ's lecture at Karnak</b></div>
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<b>Working hard in the Mudira's absence!</b></div>
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Wednesday marked the first of the “late” days, when we would
work until 3pm instead of 1pm so that each group could get an extra few hours
of drawing in before the school ends next week, with each group continuing in
their respective places. Unfortunately, we picked one of the hottest days to do
this – with the temperatures reaching beyond 100F/40C! However, it was also a
day marked with celebrations. First of all, Will and JJ had brought some
wonderful chocolate-chip cookies that Ayman’s wife had made and which we shared
at the morning tea and coffee. Then,<o:p></o:p></div>
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second breakfast was highlighted by Abu Hamada bringing in
his wife’s homemade fatir (a flaky, filo-like bread), which as many of will
know he introduced us to in previous field schools and has become a favorite
with JJ, Will, and all the students. He also brought along the traditional
dipping sauces: sugarcane molasses with and without tahini and gibna abyad. It
was particularly delightful since it was a surprise to all of us, although JJ
had been hinting about having it since the beginning of the season. Since we
were staying late, it meant having another short break around 1pm, and as it
was Yaser’s birthday, we had planned to surprise him with one of our legendary cakes as well as cold drinks. This time we actually managed to remember to do it on the day!
Yaser was completely and utterly surprised by the cake, and also by the picture
that topped it – one of Hazem, Will, Yaser, JJ, and Sayed taken back in 2016.</div>
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<b>FATIR!!</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhej420H7kE1jAmlK8toMuHNWYvQwB8V7kAqK9OU8JoNoDYFKMphVvqT-hco0kxTIddMr_wMc9-Ya0sMhkrUZwF4os84SpfBi0NjjnRFdpjz1s1zlLNr8MTHGaF2gf5GLx5n1Vr7qs1pf6s/s1600/IMG_4273_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1296" data-original-width="1600" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhej420H7kE1jAmlK8toMuHNWYvQwB8V7kAqK9OU8JoNoDYFKMphVvqT-hco0kxTIddMr_wMc9-Ya0sMhkrUZwF4os84SpfBi0NjjnRFdpjz1s1zlLNr8MTHGaF2gf5GLx5n1Vr7qs1pf6s/s400/IMG_4273_crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOiRALwUWFM5jHfj7adXcM56T5-mp4_a2_kfym99UQ6qY2qE3Szl6Uc5QCNIqzrcbG9t0NvKXqVDf8WCg4QXJysi1j8-GrirPyFMstgqdvTZXVa3-yN3sWntfhyB3PBw1o97rlTn3JxX-/s1600/IMG_4275_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1204" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPOiRALwUWFM5jHfj7adXcM56T5-mp4_a2_kfym99UQ6qY2qE3Szl6Uc5QCNIqzrcbG9t0NvKXqVDf8WCg4QXJysi1j8-GrirPyFMstgqdvTZXVa3-yN3sWntfhyB3PBw1o97rlTn3JxX-/s400/IMG_4275_crop.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Amongst all of these celebrations and tasty victuals we
actually managed to get quite a lot of work done! And, we also had a visit from
Dr. Basem Gehad, <span style="line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Assistant to the Minister for Capacity
Development, Training, and Human Resources, and Mostafa Badawy, a member of the
Aswan Inspectorate. It was lovely to meet Basem in person, and be able to show
him our work, which he has helped to facilitate. After a long day, just when we
thought the celebrations had come to an end, we learned that Yaser’s wife Manal
was planning a further surprise party for him in the evening for friends and
family, and also wanted to include all the students from the field school. So
from 7pm onwards we all gathered at a lovely garden coffee shop located along
the banks of the Nile, which catered to large groups and families with
children. So yet again, more cake and sodas, along with traditional Egyptian
sweet pastries was enjoyed by one and all.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOinMZpj8341fWjEMBtZ_SECIUO1wh5i9yOILJJtA8l6MEgdofcd9jrU6jhmkZTU_4dUuT6MarmZbRmMDSYWeSE9mj94lKoHHcBmGPXYVoqPuV65pjM2nQiUwYwVFvvQA8SBRervoqp-RY/s1600/IMG_4308_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="823" data-original-width="1247" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOinMZpj8341fWjEMBtZ_SECIUO1wh5i9yOILJJtA8l6MEgdofcd9jrU6jhmkZTU_4dUuT6MarmZbRmMDSYWeSE9mj94lKoHHcBmGPXYVoqPuV65pjM2nQiUwYwVFvvQA8SBRervoqp-RY/s640/IMG_4308_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Yaser's second birthday party</b></div>
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It was only Wednesday evening at Yaser’s party that it
dawned on us that we had arranged with Afifi to visit his work in the Western
Valley at the crack of dawn Thursday morning. So, informing the students at the
last minute that we would have to meet earlier than usual in order to
facilitate this visit, the party broke up a bit early. But with the recent
heatwave we were glad that the trek up the wadi was in the relative cool of the
early morning beneath the deep shadows cast by the cliffs rather than in the heat
of the day. Afifi is in charge of a long-term project to try and clear the rock
and debris from the end of the valley near the royal tomb of Ay, in the hopes
of finding additional royal tombs. He kindly showed us and our students some of
his work and the organizational methodology he is applying to this work in
order to settle the question once and for all as to whether there are more
tombs. Since we had an earlier start, we managed to get back to TT110 by 8:30,
meaning we had a nearly on-time start to the day. This was one of the last days
for Group 1 to be in the tomb, and Group 2 with
Yaser, and the students worked hard and well to complete their drawings. In fact, some have even been drawing objects found around
the house!</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADa7rdEy7ZB-Eaq3SD-e1l8t8ioEIawxZMUsBKXnjvXGvAL5bW83WYvf0wXil69zc1ip4ode_2ngQyqoGhx4T8VkB_Oq8l9Ysr_8S8G52ihvgGUD7IwX0Y5-r2leVUvJQId3ZMoEsThLu/s1600/IMG_4241_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1104" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADa7rdEy7ZB-Eaq3SD-e1l8t8ioEIawxZMUsBKXnjvXGvAL5bW83WYvf0wXil69zc1ip4ode_2ngQyqoGhx4T8VkB_Oq8l9Ysr_8S8G52ihvgGUD7IwX0Y5-r2leVUvJQId3ZMoEsThLu/s400/IMG_4241_crop.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Alaa Talaat's "homework"<br /><br /></b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWe_-hNnlW_tZsTxg9gn2b9Eu96XicOu3b4BCsOaRz_iRqo4sUuOiiqRKdAuXSaKIvXJl4mnoas680JvDrWf5nUMTgok7yT2tzYL0PK9ob5Hw-aPrK8ERNtrQMY8mdvQt4xoBh5iI5Qbfo/s1600/IMG_4265_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1239" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWe_-hNnlW_tZsTxg9gn2b9Eu96XicOu3b4BCsOaRz_iRqo4sUuOiiqRKdAuXSaKIvXJl4mnoas680JvDrWf5nUMTgok7yT2tzYL0PK9ob5Hw-aPrK8ERNtrQMY8mdvQt4xoBh5iI5Qbfo/s400/IMG_4265_crop.jpg" width="308" /></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cQixU22vcWhCqzG97SQF8RScMTrsfZ4O40cGg-rftAiFA4UPuGxZtCYmXCZVLcGSW9qjQziozS07lgw3KQlIyPuj8rv9fqtnaNQRhdTcjIXJhxH2LZNuc32RZid9DtwkCYzk-l1oiVAj/s1600/IMG_4263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_cQixU22vcWhCqzG97SQF8RScMTrsfZ4O40cGg-rftAiFA4UPuGxZtCYmXCZVLcGSW9qjQziozS07lgw3KQlIyPuj8rv9fqtnaNQRhdTcjIXJhxH2LZNuc32RZid9DtwkCYzk-l1oiVAj/s320/IMG_4263.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rehab drawing her first object</b></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ30_RPMhPNdZ9aOWJueWzoPP97yxW20pFTMa_XSyS2-PmQxrog9vLgRvOJmAS3wtungL-Wiw7k5LnOqGYANv2Rl3QU4XR60MXcfRTA4aog2e5o1udm6I_KESe_g5NnLfef__4VvQFc_5M/s1600/IMG_4260_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ30_RPMhPNdZ9aOWJueWzoPP97yxW20pFTMa_XSyS2-PmQxrog9vLgRvOJmAS3wtungL-Wiw7k5LnOqGYANv2Rl3QU4XR60MXcfRTA4aog2e5o1udm6I_KESe_g5NnLfef__4VvQFc_5M/s320/IMG_4260_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Ahmed ElNasseh taking the shape of his object</b></td></tr>
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<b>Sayed and Rasha consulting at the wall</b></div>
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Over the past week we had been having the 2018 field school
t-shirts made, and so it was with much excitement that we finally handed them
out to the students. Everyone agreed that the logo was excellent and the color
chosen for the stitching, thanks to Shaimaa's scarf, perfect. Look for them on our field trip to ElKab
tomorrow!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-30145847926927874332018-03-03T08:04:00.000-08:002018-03-03T08:04:50.691-08:00Field School Week 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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As we anticipated, we spent some of our Friday working at
Chicago House. We needed to prepare some fieldtrips for the students for the time next week when they won’t be able to
receive illustration instruction from Yaser, seeing as he will be away for a
few days to start his field school at Abydos. Work accomplished, we rounded out
the evening by having a drink at the Winter Palace’s Royal Bar with Steve
Harvey, an old friend and colleague who is in town for a few days leading an AIA
(Archaeological Institute of America) tour through Egypt. It was lovely to
catch up and reminisce! Seeing as he also had to be up early, we made our way
home at the unbelievable time of 8:30, though we still didn’t manage to get to bed
until after 10.</div>
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Saturday was the day of truth for Group 1, who began their
practice drawings in TT 110 at the places we had designated for them and where
they will ultimately be drawing for real Meanwhile, Group 2 got its first introduction
to pottery illustration from Yaser. Yaser gave each student the necessary
drawing tools (profile gauges, calipers, etc.), explaining all their individual
uses, and began reviewing the “5 steps” of archaeological illustration. They
managed to get through to step 2! We also got to see quite a bit of Ezz today,
as we met him on the way to work, at breakfast with Ramadan, and then again on
the way home from work. <o:p></o:p></div>
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On Sunday we continued in much the same fashion, with Yaser
finishing up his explanation of the 5 step drawing process with Group 2, while
Group 1 continued working in the tomb. Several of the Group 1 students were
able to finish their first practice pieces, and two began looking at the photocopies
from Davies publication for the area they will draw in order to check his work
against the wall. After breakfast both groups re-formed in Yaser’s illustration
tent in order for Will to discuss and demonstrate the drawing of particular
hieroglyphic signs, paying close attention to specific diagnostic traits and
features. The purpose of this exercise is to help the students be able to
recognize individual signs on the wall, even when they are damaged or badly
preserved. This took us, yet again, right up until 1pm, by which time everyone
was very glad to escape the heat of the day, which is now pushing above 30C / 88F.
Through the desert grapevine, as we were packing up, we learned that our friend
and colleague Liam McNamara was in town briefly from Hierakonpolis on his way
to the airport o travel to Cairo, and that he was lunching at the Oasis before
leaving town. Seeing as his transport was provided by our driver Ayman, he knew
to delay his departure slightly so as to rendezvous with us at the end of our
work day. Thus, we were able to see him as he was finishing his lunch and we
were ordering ours for an information-packed half hour.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sayed and Mario at the false door</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rasha, Walid and Will at the north stela</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rasha making her hand copy</b></td></tr>
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On Monday our two groups swapped places, with Group 1 going
off to the tent to begin pottery drawing instruction with Yaser, and Group 2 (finally)
coming back into the tomb and resuming their hand copies from last week. After
some review to remind them, and us, as to how far they had each gotten, they seemed
to have quickly returned to the zone just in time for a visit from our Chicago House
neighbors in TT 107, artist Sue Osgood and epigrapher/Egyptologist Ariel Singer. This was particularly satisfying
seeing as we had visited their work and Sue had graciously explained her
drawing techniques and methods, and now our students were able to return the compliment.
It was one of those kinds of days where not just one bus, but several arrive,
and we had what we thought were random tourists visiting the tomb only to realize
they were young Egyptological colleagues from Australia whom we had briefly met
at the Oasis. JJ was able to give them a brief introduction to the tomb while
the students continued to work, and seeing as it was nearly time for breakfast
we invited them to join us. As we were leaving the tomb we saw Vincent Oeters
on the horizon with his parents and girlfriend Myrthe, whom we had been
expecting. Vincent, in good Egyptological fashion, knew when to arrive for 2<sup>nd</sup>
breakfast, as if by instinct! So inviting them along, the more the merrier, we had
a particularly festive, extended breakfast, so much so that we had to send Abu
Hamada and Mohammed to collect all the chairs from Yaser’s tent. Again Vincent,
knowing archaeological etiquette, brought gifts – a package of the traditional
Dutch stroopwafel (waffle-like wafers filled with caramel). But being so many,
Vincent’s mum, in good motherly fashion, divided them into quarters – enough for
1 apiece, except for Will and JJ, and the staff, who each got 2. YAY! For JJ,
the first time she had tried this, and for Will a much appreciated delicacy. Treats
consumed, we headed back to our respective work places and Vincent’s party was
able to get an impression of not only the tomb, but also our students’ work.
Those of you from reading our previous blogs will remember that Vincent visited
us 2 years ago, so it was an enjoyable reunion for many of us. Bidding farewell
to Vincent and his family, and directing them to Sheikh Ali for a well-deserved
repast, Will took charge in the tomb while JJ was able to visit our former
student Mahmoud’s nearby tomb, TT 172 of Montuiywy, in order to have a look and
discuss the style of wall painting and interesting historical aspects of the
tomb and its owner.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaNdzyOudKJ7_GPJjASQKbGMGoV_-ZR9qp5PRhnOhw5E-fm-4xfrqwiTihwmlNMiHN_duVYPcBuDHvWw9CzmW-kH7KtMt2rAduj3z42q1qLtyyZwDYewT999b5MRQUwZFkPAmttEQr6vRM/s1600/IMG_4056_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1515" data-original-width="1600" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaNdzyOudKJ7_GPJjASQKbGMGoV_-ZR9qp5PRhnOhw5E-fm-4xfrqwiTihwmlNMiHN_duVYPcBuDHvWw9CzmW-kH7KtMt2rAduj3z42q1qLtyyZwDYewT999b5MRQUwZFkPAmttEQr6vRM/s320/IMG_4056_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hala drawing pottery</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hussein drawing pottery</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwX0XCP4qVbscVcZto_heb51ycNLQ9Q2WgaJ-MU9oB-FrJs_A1YMNFSPgK6oe_QElHRAChUJ7ceVCOC2TMKobG3z6dRa_MY1gaXD0iPSnWptdur8xixHL7Kk8ifYyrbzxxgNKpEJu9uZ8E/s1600/IMG_4027.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwX0XCP4qVbscVcZto_heb51ycNLQ9Q2WgaJ-MU9oB-FrJs_A1YMNFSPgK6oe_QElHRAChUJ7ceVCOC2TMKobG3z6dRa_MY1gaXD0iPSnWptdur8xixHL7Kk8ifYyrbzxxgNKpEJu9uZ8E/s400/IMG_4027.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Will and Ahmed el-Nasseh at the north stela</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixFWY8ISl2HKnnJ5tHtOs6r_T9sbBIPKjbkYNFiBHKnUCRoae5ifj3aq3WpdBrfIv3M3Fgb8fTfYHl9mXEKIRJnE0uVOyTY6QWYR2wn2UT_6QWcAuAt5IVEhnVP1jbetgqGVwNBfJ734xP/s1600/IMG_4028_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1169" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixFWY8ISl2HKnnJ5tHtOs6r_T9sbBIPKjbkYNFiBHKnUCRoae5ifj3aq3WpdBrfIv3M3Fgb8fTfYHl9mXEKIRJnE0uVOyTY6QWYR2wn2UT_6QWcAuAt5IVEhnVP1jbetgqGVwNBfJ734xP/s400/IMG_4028_crop.jpg" width="291" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mahmoud examining the lintel</b></td></tr>
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<b style="text-align: center;">Vincent displaying the stroopwafel</b></div>
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<b>Vincent and his family visiting TT 110</b></div>
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Tuesday, even before we caught breath and had our first tea
and nescafe, the ARCE minibus arrived, carrying ARCE’s Egypt Director Dr. Louise
Bertini, Deputy Director for Research and Government Affiliations Director Mary
Sadek, and camerawoman Dana Smillie. They joined us for tea and coffee and then
hit the ground running, filming the landscape of the tomb, and various aspects of
the field school, including the students working on epigraphy inside the tomb
and drawing pottery with Yaser at the tent. The morning was rounded off by JJ
giving an interview answering questions regarding the nature and history of the
project. It all ran quite smoothly and by 9:30 they had finished and headed off
to visit and film other ARCE projects working in the Luxor area. We carried on working, with the two groups in the same area
that they had been on the day before. When we broke for 2nd breakfast we were
surprised and delighted to see that our former student Shaimaa Mandor had come
to visit! Many of our new students also know her very well, and a few had even
had some instruction in epigraphy from her, so there was much rejoicing all
around the table. Which had nothing, of course, to do with the homemade pastries
and delectable pound cake that Shaimaa had brought with her! Thanks to Shaimaa’s
visit, the students were also, finally, able to decide on a logo color for their
team shirts. They could all agree, at last, to choose the color of Shaimaa’s
headscarf – nibeety, a deep burgundy red.</div>
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<b>Shaimaa advising Rehab at the false door</b><br />
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After breakfast the two groups continued, with several in
the tomb finishing their initial practice sheets. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Shaimaa
also joined us in TT 110, which was particularly helpful for Rehab as she is
drawing in the same area as Shaimaa did in 2015 and thus could give her some
good advice. </span>Once again, the students
drawing pottery worked up until the last possible moment, with Yaser releasing
them a good 10 minutes past closing time. With the students realizing that Mudira
JJ was going to be away until Saturday, there were many fond farewells and wishes
of good luck for her talks in Cairo on Wednesday and Thursday, as well as
insistence that she return bearing presents.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nP2D3-OWEcOoDprbqbC-v0wlwFNV5JlYbFkqNkW-Uey3VEfWCxF_VBaEwN2D5kphubOreHnjpl3o5rSxShyr6wd7BAW-brzzwhIda6e41js8B7qzeOXL5wEGaZ74ykDcecJWpgVtYPHa/s1600/IMG_4061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7nP2D3-OWEcOoDprbqbC-v0wlwFNV5JlYbFkqNkW-Uey3VEfWCxF_VBaEwN2D5kphubOreHnjpl3o5rSxShyr6wd7BAW-brzzwhIda6e41js8B7qzeOXL5wEGaZ74ykDcecJWpgVtYPHa/s400/IMG_4061.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Amira's hand copy</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ymGGLCnZ386HYF_2qcK-SeK_Utcmb6UQU3MdTvr7nxZ6woTGl6OuXo7HTAs3BPuLfdiYDqrDSLU7yS-44q_lxL8uon2eqXKmcW1odeXnePjWm9hkfsE1YQFjEN3HpHGbEGdE7HKmRSEi/s1600/IMG_4064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ymGGLCnZ386HYF_2qcK-SeK_Utcmb6UQU3MdTvr7nxZ6woTGl6OuXo7HTAs3BPuLfdiYDqrDSLU7yS-44q_lxL8uon2eqXKmcW1odeXnePjWm9hkfsE1YQFjEN3HpHGbEGdE7HKmRSEi/s400/IMG_4064.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rehab's hand copy</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Rehab proudly displaying her first drawing</b></td></tr>
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After a meal at Hazem’s with his family, JJ caught the
shuttle from Luxor to Cairo, arriving and heading straight to Salima Ikram’s
for an evening visit with her and her husband Nicholas, as well as our now old
friend Piet Collett, who keeps turning up everywhere. Meanwhile, Mr. Will was
left in charge of the project in Luxor, enjoying a quiet evening at the flat in
readiness for a hectic day on site the next morning.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On Wednesday, whilst JJ was preparing for her talk at ARCE that
evening, Will and the team were visited by ARCE Luxor Associate Director John
Shearman and Conservator Khadiga Adam, who were showing a group from the US
Embassy the work ARCE had done in the tomb. Once the visit ended, it was time
to work, and now it was Group 1’s turn in the tomb to work on their epigraphy
and Group 2 heading off to continue pottery drawing with Yaser. On Thursday the
two groups switched places yet again, so that by week’s end each group had had
the same amount of time in the tomb as at the drawing tent. <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 12pt;">In
addition, in order to make sure that the students understood the various types
of surfaces present in the tomb before they began their drawing, Mr. Will
devised a game by which each student was asked to identify the different types
of surface found in TT110, at Mr. Will’s discretion: good surface, damage, ancient
plaster, and modern restoration. To Will’s relief (ha ha!), all 11 students
passed with flying colors! </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoDPMYIgyQVoICD0ghT981NwEURtKpEYdqAQNzaxZiMTzDqDXjqMSm4PVI2qnz55dEPhRJRaFq-9xuXLEa3CCll4wHOyie_etrgNz3XBoCl-N5uFvwdqIxtWS797s5-tnc3TivlIw3UA8/s1600/IMG_4079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoDPMYIgyQVoICD0ghT981NwEURtKpEYdqAQNzaxZiMTzDqDXjqMSm4PVI2qnz55dEPhRJRaFq-9xuXLEa3CCll4wHOyie_etrgNz3XBoCl-N5uFvwdqIxtWS797s5-tnc3TivlIw3UA8/s400/IMG_4079.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Students queueing to begin Mr. Will's "game"</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DtRaYRo9GW4Qfo1c71tPGsML2mVXTUi9axxn26MaC_EioSg3ctllFHJ-XYn2jSiSHA8SJ8N8cw3aKT7Zqf_g_aB_UXGP_yaf6CRHp3bNDuzmKF-oip4T0xxwqlQpNOTSSpYdMbIJeR_k/s1600/IMG_4080_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1267" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DtRaYRo9GW4Qfo1c71tPGsML2mVXTUi9axxn26MaC_EioSg3ctllFHJ-XYn2jSiSHA8SJ8N8cw3aKT7Zqf_g_aB_UXGP_yaf6CRHp3bNDuzmKF-oip4T0xxwqlQpNOTSSpYdMbIJeR_k/s400/IMG_4080_crop.jpg" width="316" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mario's turn at the "game"</b></td></tr>
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Sayed seemed to be
on his phone an inordinate amount of time during the morning, and announced to
Mr. Will by second breakfast that he had had word from the London-based Egypt
Exploration Society (EES) that his proposal for fieldwork had been accepted and
he had been awarded a Centenary Grant to begin his excavation and study of
TT382 of Usermontu. As some of you may remember, JJ and Will visited Sayed’s
tomb at the end of the last field school and subsequently wrote references on
his behalf for the application. Therefore, there was much jubilation in the
tomb and over the airwaves as Sayed let JJ know the good news. At the end of
the work day, the guys retired to Sheikh Ali, sans JJ, for the customary Thursday
afternoon staff meeting and debriefing about the week and the progress made by
the students, as well as a plan for the upcoming week while Yaser is away at
Abydos. The meeting was rounded off with a conference call to JJ, who spent the
day preparing for her second lecture, this time at the EES Cairo offices at the
British Council. Both of JJ’s lectures went well, and she was able to celebrate
this by rounding off Thursday night dining with a group of friends.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu8aG-oDMDIpwtRPuPXGdW-XwOJEykqOgzW0r_-dHZTlIqpC0y9geSLULHGxuTt5GgiIPT1sXcNMWZucaJZXar2SyU8HhRcaWtp5-AkgPga2uhtmyroTjFwEADnea7FFef7CBbQ9Swpmd6/s1600/IMG_4090_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1155" data-original-width="1600" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu8aG-oDMDIpwtRPuPXGdW-XwOJEykqOgzW0r_-dHZTlIqpC0y9geSLULHGxuTt5GgiIPT1sXcNMWZucaJZXar2SyU8HhRcaWtp5-AkgPga2uhtmyroTjFwEADnea7FFef7CBbQ9Swpmd6/s400/IMG_4090_crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Hazem catching up on project work while Mudira's away</b></div>
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<b>Crossing a street in Cairo</b></div>
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Friday was spent with Will preparing for the upcoming
fieldtrip by doing some research at Chicago House about the site of Elkab and
the particular monuments that we hope to visit, including New Kingdom (18th Dynasty)
rock-cut tombs, barque shrine of Amenhotep III, and assorted rock graffiti located
along the wadi in between. Upon the completion of Will’s work at Chicago House,
Hazem and Ayman collected him from the pavement and transported him to the
airport to greet the arrival of the Mudira’s plane. While waiting outside the
terminal, our friend Ellie Smith appeared put of nowhere, having just left Will
at Chicago House! It turned out that she was there to greet the Chicago House
photographer Sue Lezon, another old friend and colleague. So JJ and Sue had
been on the same flight from Cairo, but failed to properly recognize each other
until greeted by Ellie and Will. They admitted to thinking each looked familiar,
but they weren’t sure enough to say anything, seeing as it had been some 20
years since they had least seen one another!</div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-31180146684208355492018-02-22T23:53:00.001-08:002018-03-03T08:09:13.401-08:00Field School Week 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Like always, we spent Friday working at home and at Chicago
House, running errands, and finishing up the weekly blog. On Saturday we
returned to the west bank, which will be our based of operations for the
remainder of the school. The introductory courses and trips are now finished,
and we can begin to start the real epigraphy teaching. Beginning in the morning,
and after Abu Hamada and his young assistant Mohamed had cleared away the morning
tea and coffee detritus, Mr. Will brought out the infamous “5 Epigraphy Steps”,
of which no doubt the students had been hearing rumors from the friends in previous
field schools. We spent the morning under the breakfast tent going painstakingly
slowly through each step due to much useful discussion and clarification from
Sayed and Hazem in Arabic. In light of the fact that we have taught this in two
previous schools, we now better understand what needs to be gone over in more
detail from the beginning. Insha’allah this will mean that there the students
will move more quickly once they are really working in the tomb. So, it will have
been time well spent. Mr. Will managed to make all 5 steps last until exactly
1pm, in time for our mass exodus via mini-bus. While all of this was happening in
the breakfast tent, Yaser continued at the illustration tent, introducing his
students to the principles of object drawing. Our Inspector Safaa, who had previously
been learning pottery drawing with Yaser, has now joined the epigraphy portion of
the school with Will and JJ.<o:p></o:p></div>
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When we arrived on site Sunday morning quite the sight greeted us - several balloons drifting low across the edge of the gebel, over the tomb. Although the sight of early morning balloons is not that unusual, we had never witnessed them so close to our work before - it was quite a surreal welcome. After tea and coffee we began the day by having
a look at Alaa’s tomb (TT 108), located just below the illustration tent. As
some of you might recall, we had consulted with Alaa in previous years about the
epigraphy needing to be done in his tomb. So, we asked him to explain the work
he had done to the students, including our returning illustration students. Once
Alaa had finished, Mr. Will picked up the baton and explained how they would approach
a tomb like Alaa’s before actually beginning to draw, looking at things like
shape, condition, damage, decoration, etc. A kind of prequel to what we will
introduce them to in TT110. Once again thanks to the many questions asked by
our students, as with Saad, what we thought was going to be a short session took
the entire morning. After the breakfast Yaser’s students returned to their
illustration instruction and we took the students down to TT 110 where Will
walked them through the tomb, focusing on the stone, nature of the restoration
and conservation, ancient plaster remains, etc., so that the students could
begin to understand the difficulty of drawing the tomb walls and learn what
they will need to look for before beginning their own drawings.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Balloons over TT 110</b> </div>
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<b>Alaa explaining his tomb to the students</b> </div>
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After the work had finished, Will, JJ, and Sayed stopped in
at the New Memnon Hotel, just behind the west bank ARCE office, so that we
could meet up with the MMA Malqata team. Over sodas and chipsies on the roof of
the hotel, with a spectacular panorama view of the west bank, we chatted and
caught up with the team, many of whom are old friends, including Susan Allen,
Catharine Roehrig, Janice Kamrin, Jan Picton, as well as Piet Collet whom we
had expected to have already left Luxor but had delayed his trip. We extended an
invitation for them to visit our work, so hopefully we shall see them again at
TT110. What was meant to be a short 20 minute stop turned into a lovely and
leisurely extended conversation with many anecdotes and funny stories being exchanged,
as is so often the case after Egyptologists get together after a long absence.
Consequently, there was very little turn around between a quick and light lunch
at Oasis and the appointed time to meet Jen Kimpton (Chicago House Egyptologist/epigrapher)
and Keli Alberts (Chicago House artist) for an early dinner at Lantern. As many
of you know from before, the Lantern serves traditional English roasts on
Sunday, and all but Will partook of the generous portions of roast, mashed
potatoes, roast potatoes (English-style), vegetables, and gigantic Yorkshire
puddings, all with gravy, plus dessert! We had last seen Jen and Keli at the
Lantern in November, so it was a chance to resume our conversation where we had
left off.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>In case you were confused, this is NOT the Lantern, but Ch</b><span style="text-align: left;"><b>é</b></span><b>z TT110</b></div>
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Monday we continued in much the same vein as Sunday,
beginning with Alaa showing and explaining the drawings that he had made in his
tomb to all of the students, and with Will, JJ, Sayed, and Hazem fielding
questions as they arose. As before, this took the entire morning, and just before
we finished both Fathy Yassin, General Director of Antiquities on the West
Bank, and Ezz el-Noby, Director of the Middle Area, came for a visit. So they
were able to observe the discussion and meet those of our students who are from
the East Bank and further afield since they were not known to them. They stayed
for breakfast, and Fathy marveled over the extensive spread and wondered how
the student could possibly do any work after all that food. Fortunately, we have three tea kettles going alatool (i.e., non-stop) to supply teas and coffees for the assembled multitudes (see above)! After breakfast, as
on Sunday, Yaser’s students returned to drawing, while the new students were
given a display by Mr. Will of the drawing process, using the façade of the
tomb to demonstrate the 5 steps of epigraphy. Yet again, while 5 steps don’t sound
like much, by the time it had been done in great detail it took right up until
1pm. We finished the day off by having our lunch meal with Hazem and his
family, as we had done last week.</div>
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<b>Alaa discussing his tomb epigraphy with the students</b><br />
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<b>Fathy and Ezz observing Alaa's tomb drawing presentation</b></div>
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On Tuesday the day dawned grey and overcast, which made it
cooler, but also uncertain of what the weather might become. Initially this was
a good thing as we planned for the students to be drawing in the courtyard of
TT 110. But it proved ultimately to be too much of a good thing because it
actually started to rain! And as you know from previous blogs, this is a VERY
rare occurrence in Luxor. However, rather than stop the work, we found places
for all the students to draw underneath an awning draped over the entire façade
of the tomb, which was meant to block the sun, but today served well as a rain
shield. After Will’s initial introduction demonstrating to the students how to
recognize and document damage, the students were all assigned particular places
to draw under the awning, and had done some of their initial cleaning and
prepping by second breakfast. As with Sayed, we belatedly celebrated Mahmoud
Abdel Nour’s birthday a day late, this time with two chilled magnificent cakes.
We have found that this is a guaranteed way to surprise people – celebrating their
birthdays a day late – and has nothing to do with our inability to check the
dates of their birthday in advance! Seeing as two of our students are Christian
and currently fasting, and thus unable to eat meat or dairy, and as Egyptian
cakes tend to come decorated with chocolate, whip cream, and also fresh fruit, the
other students always save the fruit for Mario and Amira so that they can still
participate in the celebration. Funnily enough, Mahmoud was totally surprised!
After an extended second breakfast due to the arrival of the cakes, the
students returned to drawing their own individual areas of damage, and
fortunately the rain held off until we were packing up, just after 1pm.<br />
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<b>Mahmoud and his two cakes!!</b></div>
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In the evening we had arranged with old friends Julia Harvey
and Jaap van Dijk to meet up for dinner. They were in town for only a few days
at the end of their time in Egypt before returning to the Netherlands. Since
they were staying on the west, we collected them at the ferry landing and took
them to our old reliable water hole, Pizza Roma, for pasta and a beer. It had
been over 2 years since we’d last seen them in Luxor, so there was a lot of
catching up to do, with many anecdotes and shared traveling horror stories, but
Julia and Jaap won hands-down with the story of how they both forgot their
passports when traveling to Ireland, and then trumped that story with the
account of how Julia inadvertently left her passport in the seat pouch on the airplane
in LA and it went to Boise, Idaho without her! Miraculously, it was returned by
FedEx a few days later. Will’s advice: never travel with Jaap and Julia! Stories
finished, and beer drunk, we said our goodbyes with promises to visit each
other in our home countries soon.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wednesday morning we had another grey start to the work, but
at least this time without any rain! As the students had so impressed us with their
progress the day before, we decided to divide them into their two appropriate
groups, which took a bit of doing. This meant that while half would continue
practicing in the forecourt, the other half began to make notes about the
section of the tomb they will be drawing. And, of course, we also had to decide where in the tomb each
student would be placed so as to comfortably situate everyone in our tiny, tiny
tomb! It also meant that we needed to string extra lights in the tomb in order
to prepare for drawing. Fortunately, Hazem knew exactly how to do this since we
have done it in previous field schools. The two groups carried on working until
second breakfast, after which we had them swap places for the remainder of the
work day. Thursday continued in much the same fashion, with each of the two
groups having a chance to continue practicing in the forecourt, and also work
on their notes and hand sketches inside the tomb. Now that the groups are
divided and beginning to work inside the tomb, it was also time to assign each student
a tomb “job”, as we have done in previous years, in order to be sure that at
the end of the day we left the tomb as found it – ready for tourists. Thursday also
marked the last day for Yaser’s illustration students, who have now finished their
two-week program in pottery and object drawing. Even though they won’t be
joining us on site anymore, we’re sure we haven’t seen the last of them!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2WhF1B4GG5iyEBFPfYbc0G3MCxAmjDxsqLtTBsrcLv2WWLPqY3kHHj7IRpb-77qSbIeE-03a2xrMFGvFz0pJIlxvpd0z6zJpdAWlq30I0HKmQxBQqK-E7BPlAcD2utQZh8JokWvV3J7c/s1600/IMG_3901_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1400" data-original-width="1600" height="560" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi2WhF1B4GG5iyEBFPfYbc0G3MCxAmjDxsqLtTBsrcLv2WWLPqY3kHHj7IRpb-77qSbIeE-03a2xrMFGvFz0pJIlxvpd0z6zJpdAWlq30I0HKmQxBQqK-E7BPlAcD2utQZh8JokWvV3J7c/s640/IMG_3901_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Group 1: Mena/Mario; Hussein; Walid; Safaa; Hala; Rasha</b></div>
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<b>Group 2: Alaa Talaat; Ahmed el Nasseh; Mahmoud; Amira; Rehab</b></div>
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<b>Abu Hamada assisting Hazem with the electric for the tomb</b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyn91VnBI2F_OBHklP2yqiX_agGjsfgRAr6DDrV6ilD5nICSUjNaKEw2QVm2v6_lMgHNr-RjTSmDgrevnSoxwdgBrTgrf_7NATfOpICY3w3Sun3j_QJ1yPcs5AGPhY3Ke8Q9ZLatbXeaY/s1600/IMG_3908_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1189" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnyn91VnBI2F_OBHklP2yqiX_agGjsfgRAr6DDrV6ilD5nICSUjNaKEw2QVm2v6_lMgHNr-RjTSmDgrevnSoxwdgBrTgrf_7NATfOpICY3w3Sun3j_QJ1yPcs5AGPhY3Ke8Q9ZLatbXeaY/s320/IMG_3908_crop.jpg" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hala studying her 5 steps</b></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoNXBA4L0Ycj0poEVY4WlSDnhQ-cv-5D8uUA3B05ocCxfJgP7xFk6m8gBoY28WvHdGScFs2JORVbhXJrX5VK-jtWw9thqjWiBgvc5HIQ72NTAOmoc5S-n10sueFHdyuPD7H03d8NxDmGT/s1600/IMG_3931_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1152" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoNXBA4L0Ycj0poEVY4WlSDnhQ-cv-5D8uUA3B05ocCxfJgP7xFk6m8gBoY28WvHdGScFs2JORVbhXJrX5VK-jtWw9thqjWiBgvc5HIQ72NTAOmoc5S-n10sueFHdyuPD7H03d8NxDmGT/s320/IMG_3931_crop.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Hussein examining the wall</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG_R8Mmj1fYHJh9F0_uPYPfCAF_eqnVZhPcJeGlCOZtX-mhppV_CrxGL5DsLinImz0CxEUlb2Tc_KmvRg4AmwDMb6oosMgeQ3jj1ge_vMxvS7ZpvLBycuFdUIhqpq40MjpKV_rmXGvKrM/s1600/IMG_3921_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1258" data-original-width="1600" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXG_R8Mmj1fYHJh9F0_uPYPfCAF_eqnVZhPcJeGlCOZtX-mhppV_CrxGL5DsLinImz0CxEUlb2Tc_KmvRg4AmwDMb6oosMgeQ3jj1ge_vMxvS7ZpvLBycuFdUIhqpq40MjpKV_rmXGvKrM/s400/IMG_3921_crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Amira begins her hand copy</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-TwAzgUsjTqaR835WdV6xu0LoEEasZIk8FXZZ8z3tDsSi_3jOnVXrsmevDos2ZGDnvx0rpWwIydanQ8U-77X2ZOUHDMUARqRTIkvYVBiQ-pjBa_U6xH3H_0OfG9mw3EAhmRjF-dPYNcQ/s1600/IMG_3911_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1574" data-original-width="1600" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-TwAzgUsjTqaR835WdV6xu0LoEEasZIk8FXZZ8z3tDsSi_3jOnVXrsmevDos2ZGDnvx0rpWwIydanQ8U-77X2ZOUHDMUARqRTIkvYVBiQ-pjBa_U6xH3H_0OfG9mw3EAhmRjF-dPYNcQ/s320/IMG_3911_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Will and Walid </b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM-TwAzgUsjTqaR835WdV6xu0LoEEasZIk8FXZZ8z3tDsSi_3jOnVXrsmevDos2ZGDnvx0rpWwIydanQ8U-77X2ZOUHDMUARqRTIkvYVBiQ-pjBa_U6xH3H_0OfG9mw3EAhmRjF-dPYNcQ/s1600/IMG_3911_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>
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At the end of the day, JJ, Will, Sayed, and Hazem adjourned to Sheikh Ali for the weekly staff meeting. Yaser joined us about an hour later, as he needed to finish up with his students, and review their drawing exams. They all passed with flying colors, until he asked them to draw a top plan and section of a pen … Fortunately, after a bit of hemming and hawing, one-by-one they worked it out!<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"><b> Alaa drawing an object</b></span></div>
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<b>Yaser discussing Nadia's drawing</b></div>
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And that's our week. Friday of course we expect we will spend largely at Chicago House. Stay tuned to see what interesting things happen next week, seeing as that will be when the students will, insha'allah, start real drawings. The "proof is in the pudding" as they say ...</div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-23502712818232951432018-02-16T08:49:00.001-08:002018-03-03T08:06:04.616-08:00Field School Week 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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When we last left you, it was to wait and see what happened
once the field school officially started. Well, first off, it started with a
different Inspector from whom we had met at the Karnak teftish last week.
Instead of Ali Erfan, we have Safaa Mohamed Abd El-Moaaty,
which will either make things simpler or more complicated seeing as we now have
2 Inspectors with the same name. Malesh. We were pleased to see that our second
Safaa welcomed us at the door to the Karnak Lab already reporting for duty at
the appointed hour of 8am.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On both Saturday and Sunday Will and JJ, with Sayed’s
assistance, spent the day teaching the new students at the Karnak Lab. Mudira JJ
provided an introduction to the placement of tombs in Sheikh Abd el-Qurna
during the 18th Dynasty, which helps to situate the tomb of Djhuty in the
landscape. A second lecture introduced the students to many of the key
officials during the reigns of Hatshepsut and Thutmose III, which gives a
social and political context to Djhuty and his career. Mr. Will gave the
students an overview of the history of epigraphy as well as a professional and
anecdotal history of his career as an epigrapher, illustrated with examples of
his work from different projects. We had boasted about our famous second
breakfasts to the students, and fortunately Mostafa (the same Karnak workman we had last year) did not let us down, on
Saturday bringing fuul, tamaya, mixed salat, gibna abyad (salty white cheese),
kiri (like Philly cream cheese), aish balady (local pita bread) and aish fino
(white baguettes), mos (banana), yousef effendis (satsumas), and chipsies (UK
crisps, US potato chips), and supplementing the menu on Sunday with fresh
lettuce and tomatoes, boiled eggs, batates (US French fries, UK chips), and roasted
aubergine!<o:p></o:p></div>
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At the same time, Yaser begin his teaching course, with
Hazem’s assistance, on the west at TT 110, beginning with pottery drawing for
the 5 returning students (Nadia, Mahmoud, Abu el-Hagag, Alaa, and Sayed el
Rekaby), as well as our west bank Inspector Safaa. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<b style="text-align: center;">Abu el-Hagag drawing a pot sherd</b></div>
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<b>Our Inspector Safaa drawing pottery</b><br />
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This is the explanation for how Will and JJ managed to be in two places at the same time, which had initially confused all and a sundry until we admitted that in fact the teaching on the west bank was going to be handled by Yaser while at the same time as we were teaching in the east. We're good, but we don't have a tardis (sadly).</div>
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Monday we started somewhat differently by meeting at a local
coffeeshop across from the entrance to Luxor Temple because we planned to visit
the work of Chicago House artists Jay Heidel and Krisztián Verteś.
You may remember that we have visited their work with beginning field schools
in the past, and were overjoyed to find that they were still happy and willing
to explain their work to our new crop of students. We made our way to the back
of the temple and the adjacent block yard where, unbelievably, over 100,000
decorated fragments are stored. Chicago House has been involved for many years
in photographing and documenting these fragments, which now involves state-of-the-art
digital epigraphy. Jay gave the students an overview of the history of the
project and how the work is currently progressing, and he even let some of the
students practice on his iPad Pro drawing graphics tablet! This visit naturally
segwayed into the introduction to the photographer who is facilitating this project
and lo-and-behold it was our old friend Hilary MacDonald, whom many of you will
remember introduced our students in the digital epigraphy field school to the use of photography and Photoscan. It was a pleasure to see her <i>in situ</i>, so-to-speak. She gave a brief but excellent insight into
the type of photography needed to document these fragments without actually having
to move them, seeing as many are fragile. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Jay Heidel and Hilary MacDonald with our students</b></div>
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We then proceeded to the “king’s chamber” at the back of the
temple where Krisztián
has been ensconced for the last few years digitally recording the Roman frescoes.
When we first visited him in 2015 he was at the beginning of this process and
developing a revolutionary methodology to apply digital epigraphy to these
scenes, which entail multiple layers of surviving paint over the ancient pharaonic
carved relief. Documenting this type of painting was something that Chicago House
had never attempted in the past, it was frankly beyond the means of traditional
epigraphy. Krisztián
is at the forefront of developing new techniques to meet this challenge. And we
and our students were the beneficiaries of his knowledge and experience, as he
is now close to completion and the methods he has employed have evolved from
what were first introduced to us.</div>
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<b><span style="text-align: left;">Kriszti</span><span style="text-align: left;">á</span><span style="text-align: left;">n Verte</span><span style="text-align: left;">ś</span> with our students</b></div>
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We left Luxor Temple 2.5 hours later excited about and
motivated by all we had learned, and certainly hungry, but not before the
obligatory photo at the entrance to the temple. And just after the phot was
taken we realized that the scaffolding above our heads surrounded one of the
Ramesside colossal statues which was being restored and re-erected, and
supervising the work, suspended over our heads, was none other than Reis
Mahmoud from Karnak!</div>
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Piling into multiple taxis, we made our way back to Karnak
and directly to 2nd breakfast, somewhat later than usual. The delicious spread
was wolfed down by our hungry, young epigraphers-in-training, and after teas
and coffees we returned to the Karnak Lab. Having realized that this year all
of our students come from areas other than the west bank of Luxor, and thus
have little experience or knowledge of Thebaid tomb design, JJ gave them a
brief overview of Theban Tomb architecture and decoration in the 18th Dynasty.
Lecture concluded, it was time to reward the students by giving them each their
drawing kits, which were received with much enthusiasm and excitement. As with
Russian nesting dolls, the students discovered bags, within bags, within bags,
each one with specific drawing tools from pencils, pens, markers all the way to
triangles and tape measures. This seemed an appropriate point at which to
conclude our work at the lab, in order to eventually reassemble on the west so
the students can put their kits to use.</div>
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<b>Kits arriving in the blue box</b></div>
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<b>Kits distributed</b></div>
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But before heading west, on Tuesday we spent the day at
Chicago House, where we were joined by Yaser and his group of students. The Librarian,
Anait Helmholz, warmly greeted all of us and gave the new students a tour of
the library, taking them through both its history and its collection, including
the photographic archives. To be sure that everything was clear, Sayed then
repeated the tour in Arabic. As in previous years, JJ gave each student a “treasure
hunt” of items to find in the library, allowing them to put into practice what Anait
and Sayed had discussed and shown them. Once the students had all found their
books and journals, JJ also introduced them to some of the basic reference works that are
useful for conducting any kind of Egyptological research. Before breaking for
lunch at 12, when the library closes, Will showed the students various
historic examples of published epigraphy in books by de Garis Davies and
Chicago House, with the understanding that after lunch we would continue with
more recent epigraphic publications. While Will and JJ were working with the
new students, Yaser and his students examined different published types of
pottery and object drawing, discussing the various kinds of conventions used.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Yaser and Mahmoud</b><br />
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Since we had not taken a mid-morning break, everyone was
quite hungry, so at noon we headed for Café Marina, where we could have cold
drinks and fuul and tamaya sandwiches delivered to us. Our group numbered
nearly 20, so we took over a large and shady portion of the outdoor restaurant.
Unbeknownst to Sayed, we had arranged a surprise birthday celebration, with
Hazem ordering a cake and our driver Ayman secretly delivering it to the restaurant.
Sayed seemed honestly surprised since his birthday had actually been the day before!
And our large unwieldy group serenaded him with a particularly tuneless
rendition of “Happy Birthday”. Hazem attempted to cut pieces of the cake for
everyone, making as bad a mess of it as he had done previously with roast duck
and chicken! So, Mr. Will commandeered the knife, which looked more like a
light saber (!) and cut the appropriate sized pieces so that everyone managed
to actually have a slice of cake, with one left over for our driver Ayman as a
reward for services rendered. At 1pm we returned to Chicago House to finish
examining a selection of recent epigraphic publications. The multitude of
questions had to be curtailed so that we could leave the library by 2pm, since
we were re-grouping only a few hours later, at 5pm, at the Luxor Museum. Many
of the issues of conventions under discussion would get an additional airing
looking at a variety of carved and painted blocks in the museum.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At 5pm we re-grouped, this time without Yaser and his
students, outside the Luxor Museum. The purpose of this visit was to examine
actual carved and painted blocks to look at how one would actually draw them.
This allowed further discussion that had been begun in the library on conventions
for raised and sunk relief, paint, and particularly issues of damage and
re-carving. It also gave the students the opportunity to look at the carved “bevel”
(the angle made by a chisel), as well as the overlapping of raised and sunk
relief within carved areas. It was nearly 7:30 when we finished, the students having
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt; text-align: center;">On
Wednesday we finally headed to the west bank and the tomb, where we were able
to re-join Yaser and the illustration students, bringing our total group to nearly
20! JJ</span> had to leave the group in Will’s care as she had a breakfast
meeting with the new Cairo Director of ARCE, Dr. Louise Bertini. This proved to
be no problem at all for Mr. Will seeing as Saad Bakhit spent the entire
morning giving the students a lengthy powerpoint presentation of the
archaeological work done in the forecourt and surrounding area of TT110, of
which he was one of the Field Directors. How did we accomplish this on the west
bank you might ask? Fortunately, there is a small, undecorated glorified tomb/cave behind
the ruins of what were once houses, and near where we set up our tent, that served
admirably for this purpose. After second breakfast, Saad took the group down to
TT110 itself, where Sayed took over and explained the archaeological work that
had been done inside the tomb, including clearing the back room of fill, and
discovering and excavating the burial shaft and chambers. By the day’s end all
of the students had a thorough understanding of the archaeological history of
TT110.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Saad Bakhit giving the lecture on the archaeology of TT 110</b></div>
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<o:p><b>Sayed Mamdouh talking about the TT 110 burial shaft excavations</b></o:p></div>
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<b>Yaser teaching the illustration course</b></div>
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Wednesday evening JJ and Will were pleasantly surprised to receive
a call from Eugene Cruz-Uribe, a colleague and friend who had been working in Aswan
and was now spending a few days in Luxor. We teamed up for dinner at Pizza
Roma, <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">and
en route we ran into another colleague and old friend of Will’s – Piet Collet (a
Dutch illustrator and epigrapher working for many missions, and currently part
of the MMA mission at Malqata) </span>– who
was on his way to have Thai food with other friends. Naturally, we all exchanged
numbers so that we can plan to see each other soon!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Thursday dawned grey and overcast, keeping it nice and cool
for what we had planned – a walking tour of the necropolis in order to show the
students what JJ had already discussed in lecture and drive home the spatial,
chronological, and political relationships between the tombs. First though, we
visited the work of Chicago House at the nearby tomb of Nefersekheru (TT 107),
an official under Amenhotep III. This is a tomb we have visited in previous
years with the students, but we were fortunate this year to actually observe
the work of one of the artists, Sue Osgood, who was drawing fragments digitally,
as well as epigrapher and Egyptologist Jonathan Winnerman, who was collating
and checking earlier drawings. Dr. Brett McClain explained the history of the
documentation of the tomb from the time of its first discovery by Champollion and
Lepsius, through to the current work being undertaken by Chicago House. Sue then
talked about her digital work to the students, who were already somewhat familiar
due to the earlier visits to the work of Jay and Krisztián at Luxor Temple, and Brett finished the tour by
discussing the different roles played by the epigrapher and the artist in documenting
the tomb.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Dr. Brett McClain introducing the students to TT 107</b><br />
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<b>Artist Sue Osgood demonstrating her digital epigraphy</b><br />
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<o:p><b>Group shot in the forecourt of TT107</b></o:p></div>
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The tour of TT107 concluded, the group returned to TT110 so
that JJ could provide the students with more information about Djhuty and his
career and the particular scenes he chose to decorate his tomb. After a hearty breakfast,
it was time for the walkabout so we set off for the upper terrace of Qurna,
stopping to have a look at an example of a Middle Kingdom <i>saff</i>-tomb re-used and re-imagined during the early 18<sup>th</sup>
Dynasty, a concept already explained in lecture by JJ. From there we made our
way further up and further east along the necropolis, stopping at various tombs
that had been discussed in lecture so that the students could gain a better
picture and understanding of the necropolis’s development. We finished the day
at the magnificent lower tomb of the vizier Useramun (TT 131), emphasizing his
use of the natural landscape to construct this monumental tomb and align it
with the pyramidal top of his upper tomb (TT 61). <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Examining the ceiling of TT83</b></div>
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<b>Group shot in front of Useramun's upper tomb, TT 61</b> </div>
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<b>Discussing Useramun's lower tomb, TT 131</b><br />
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We finished the first week exhausted but satisfied with all
we had accomplished, and celebrated by having lunch and a cold beer at Sheikh
Ali / Marsam. We also took this time to have a staff meeting with Yaser, Sayed,
and Hazem, reviewing the first complete week of teaching to see if there were
any concerns, issues, or suggestions, and also examining all the students’
notebooks. We were very pleased with how the notebooks looked, and the quality and
organization of the note taking. Many included drawings and sketches to help
them visualize points mentioned in lecture by both JJ and Will, and took notes
in Arabic to keep up, while in the evenings re-writing and annotating what they
had learned. It was certainly clear that all of the students were understanding
and following the teaching instruction and taking our advice about treating the
notebooks seriously and using them as a study aid. Staff meeting and lunch
finished, we headed home to rest before spending the evening at Casa Italia on
the west bank at a party organized by Francesco. Eugene and Piet joined us, and
it was a lovely time spent chatting and catching up with colleagues and
friends.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-37261424479731549182018-02-09T13:17:00.001-08:002018-02-15T23:23:18.156-08:002018 Pre-Field School "Prep Week"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">After just over a 2 month break for the holidays, Mr. Will
and I rendezvoused at Heathrow on Feb. 5 for the direct flight via Egypt Air to
Luxor. As serendipity would have it we met in the queue to check in, and
miraculously none of our luggage was overweight (despite all the archaeological
equipment JJ was carrying). Obviously, the gods are smiling on this trip.
Lunching in the same restaurant where we have met in the past, we caught each
other up on recent events, including the Philadelphia Eagles upset victory over
the New England Patriots, which JJ was forced to miss due to flying to London!
Bad to miss the game, but good that Philly won! The flight was pleasantly
uneventful and on-time, arriving in Luxor just after 10pm local time. We were
met by not only Hazem and our driver Ayman, but Sayed also was there to welcome
us back. Those of you who have followed us before will be familiar with both
Hazem, as Project Manager, and Sayed, our Epigraphy Assistant. As our flat was
not quite ready, we went to Hazem’s house, where upon arrival we were warmly
greeted and given a meal and a bed for the night.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tuesday morning, after coffee and breakfast, we (including
Hazem) headed to the west bank for our first round of teftish visits in order
to sort out the necessary paperwork to begin the field school. We met Sayed at
the teftish and were welcomed by our old friend Mr. Ramadan Ahmed, Director of
Foreign Missions Office on the West Bank, who instigated the required
procedures. When we entered the office we were delighted to see Sayed’s wife,
Safaa, and even more thrilled to learn she would be our inspector for the
season! Our former student Abd el-Ghany also appeared so we had a chance to
catch up with him as well. After leaving Safaa to sort our permissions with
Ramadan, we were ushered into Dr. Fathy Yassin’s office, the General Director
of Antiquities on the West Bank, for the final approval for the project to
start. Whilst there, as is so often the case, who should walk in but a blast
from the past for Mr. Will. Friend and colleague from the Giza Field School Dr.
Afifi Rohim, as well as a former student, Eltayeb Mohamed Khudary, neither of
whom Will had seen in years! <span style="line-height: 107%;">We
subsequently found out that they are both part of the Western Valley Excavation
project of Dr. Zahi Hawass, and Afifi is the Field Director. </span>Permissions
acquired, and stamp of approval given, we adjourned to the garden of Sheikh Ali
for the first masbut of the season and to discuss with Sayed and Hazem some of
the plans for the beginning of the work. As those of who have followed us will
know, Sheikh Ali is the place where Egyptologists run into other Egyptologists,
so we were not surprised that the cool-looking dude with the sunglasses coming
across to greet us was none other than old friend, and now Director of IFAO
(the French Institute in Cairo), Laurent Bavay, who is in Luxor checking in on
the work of the French at Deir el-Medina, and in Theban Tomb 96.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<o:p><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Masbuts drunk, we headed back east thinking we might be able to visit the Karnak teftish in order to fill out the necessary paperwork for using the Karnak Lab, but finding that the Director was absent, we opted to have a lemoon at Oasis Palace instead. However, this allowed us to meet up with Yaser, who had secured the permissions for all of the students to attend the field school. Oasis Palace has become something of a haunt for Egyptologists, not just us, as it was to prove today when who should walk in just as we were finishing our meeting, but Francesco Tiradretti, Director of the Italian MIssion at the Tomb of Harwa (TT37). He was as thrilled to see us as we were to see him, and almost immediately extended the invitation to have pizza with his team at Casa Italia, his dig house on the west bank. Naturally, we accepted on the spot, learning that our seasons would happily overlap.</span></o:p><br />
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<o:p><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lemoons finished, we bade farewell to Yaser and headed to
Hazem’s for the planned family meal. It was delightful to see his sister Noha
and her twin boys Bara’a and Bilal, now 10 months old, as well as Ahlam’s
husband Abdullah, both of whom joined us for dinner. Hazem’s borther Ahmed was
unable to east with us as he was directing the building works still progressing
outside as the family is extending the house upwards to accommodate extra
floors for when the sons marry, a long-standing tradition in Egypt. Hopefully
there will be another opportunity before he heads to Cairo. The food, which
Hazem’s mother had prepared, was absolutely delicious and included many of our
favorites. Comfortably full we packed our bags and moved into the newly cleaned
and readied flat belonging to Dr. Betsy Bryan, where we have stayed in past
years. After unpacking and settling in, we realized the “exertion” had worked
up an appetite and we were getting hungry again. It has been at least 3 hours,
and as so many of you will remember, we need to eat every 3-4 hours! Aware of
an empty refrigerator, Will suggested that the obvious solution was to go to
our standby, Pizza Roma, for dinner and a beer to celebrate our return. All in
one day we managed to touch base with 3 of our favorite watering holes, which
even for us is something of a record!</span></o:p></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Wednesday we headed to Karnak to take care of business with
Dr. Mostafa el-Sogheir, and get everything prepared to begin teaching in the
Karnak Lab on Saturday. Naturally, we ran into yet another friend and former
student, Saad Bakhit, who you will recall was our Inspector at Karnak for the
digital field school last fall. While our papers were being processed who
should walk into the office but one of our new students who is an Inspector at
Karnak and was bringing Dr. Irmgard Hein in to finish her permissions. Irmgard
is an old friend of Will’s (of course!), and there was much general
rejoicing in seeing one another so unexpectedly after so many years. As it
proved, she is there to photograph objects stored in the magazine located at
the Montu Temple, and hopefully there will more opportunities to see each other
while we are teaching in the lab. After finishing up at Karnak, and meeting our
Inspector Ali Erfan, we headed for the shops – Aboudy to do a bit of book
browsing and Ragab for some more food items. By then we were hungry (again) and
headed to our standard – Oasis Palace – for our first lunch of the season. The
afternoon was spent working on the planned teaching program for the first week,
as we needed to review and perhaps revise what we had taught 2 years ago.
Happily, it turned out not to need too much tweaking!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Thursday we planned to spend the morning making sure
everything was set up and the tomb was ready for the students. We got a later
than usual start, awaiting Hazem to wind up some family business before heading
to the west bank, which meant a decadently late arrival at TT110, just in time
for tea and second breakfast. When we arrived, not only were our Inspector Safaa
and Sayed already at the site, but also our former student Alaa. Much hugging
and general rejoicing ensued at the reunion! We had just finished second
breakfast only to find out that Hazem had forgotten not only the tea, but also
the chato biscuits! Since he had already forgotten (twice!) to deliver the bag
of shoes and work materials we had left behind, this amounted to 3 strikes
against Hazem and so the team voted to enact the first harama of the season. As
many of you will remember, the significance of haram in Egypt entails that when
a mistake is made a compensation much be provided to the victim. In this case
the entire team, which we counted as 9 people at breakfast! The decision as to
the penalty was given by Abu Hamada seeing as he was the individual who had to
beg tea from the gafirs at a neighboring guard’s hut. The result – cake and
cola for everyone! Safaa insisted that it come from a particularly nice bakery
– La Voche – so that Hazem could not cheat by providing a stale slab of sponge
cake. Instead, as the name implies, we had fine Parisian patisserie,
Egyptian-style, cake enveloped in whipped cream along with cold coke and fanta
for the end of the workday.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had been invited to Sayed and Safaa’s for lunch after the
work, but seeing as we had finished early, and both Hazem and JJ had a lot of
work to do, it was decided that we would return early and return back to the
west around 3, giving Sayed and Safaa extra time to prepare the meal as well. In
the end Hazem was unable to join us as he was still collating handouts for the
students, but JJ and Will enjoyed a marvelous feast of duck, Egyptian fried
chicken, and a vegetable and meat tagine, all dishes that we had been treated
to at their house last year. We spent a lovely couple of hours eating, talking,
and getting reacquainted with their two daughters, Jana, now 4, and Malak,
nearly 1 year old. The rest of the day was spent back at the flat with JJ
finishing up her lecture preparations while Will learned further features of
his new computer. And of course, JJ followed the Eagles victory parade through
Philadelphia in real-time on her computer and through facetiming with Raphael and
the boys.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Friday morning we spent working, as we have done in the past,
at Chicago House, this time by preparing for when we bring the new students to
the library. We were welcomed by the librarian Anait Helmholz, who generously
offered to be available to introduce our students to the use of the library. And
our good friend Ellie Smith offered, once again, to show the students the
Chicago House photo archive. Artists Jay Heidel and Krisztián Verteś were likewise willing
once again to let us and our students impose upon their hospitality and visit
their work in the Luxor Temple. As in the past, so many friends and colleagues
have offered their time in order to enrich the experience of our students in
the field school. We once again enjoyed lunching at Chicago House and meeting old
as well as new friends. It was particularly nice to see Susan Allen, who is
part of the Metropolitan Museum Malqata Team, and whom we had not seen in Egypt in
years. And, naturally, Will ran into former students from his time teaching in
the AERA field schools at Giza.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We managed to finish at Chicago House just in time to meet
several of our former students who we have invited to participate in an object
and pottery drawing field school taught by Yaser: Nadia, Mahmoud, Abu el-Hagag,
and Sayed el-Rekaby from last season, as well as Alaa from our first season. This
gave us an opportunity to try out a newly opened café situated along the banks
of the Nile halfway between Chicago House and Karnak, aptly named Marina Café. We
sat outside enjoying the view and catching up, and Yaser was able to present his
teaching program to everyone. The inevitable group photo followed and in exchange
for the waiter taking the photo, the manager had us hold the restaurant’s
menus. So don’t blame us for the corporate promotion!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Abu el-Hagag, Mahmoud, Sayed, Yaser, Will, </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>JJ, Nadia, Alaa, Sayed el-Rekaby, Hazem</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We raced from one venue to the next, needing to be at Hazem’s
by 6 to prepare for the dinner with the new students. It was a chance to
introduce ourselves more formally to the students and give them at least an
inkling of what they had been accepted into as far as the program was
concerned. This was held upstairs in Hazem’s house, and then we adjourned to
the downstairs dining area for the meal spread out on the floor in customary
Egyptian fashion. As in previous seasons, Hazem’s mom outdid herself with the
marvelous spread of traditional Egyptian cuisine, and as in prior years our
students proved equal to the task of consuming at least most of it, in what
seemed to us record time. We subsequently returned upstairs to continue with
more discussion about the upcoming school. Yaser presented his plans for his
portion of the field school, teaching the students object and pottery illustration,
and Hazem clarified the logistics of transport, etc., for the students’ respective
commutes the following morning. All of the business concluded, we were finally
able to descend upon the cake and tea to round off our first session with the
new students. A group photo followed, and we bid farewell to our students for the
evening.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Amira, Rehab, Rasha, Hala</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjThyphenhyphen9beho-Ws_w8_Ie8o5ncSv1B0EVhu8BFkFbpPQM_ISlfGr_s5eUFQMtY_PguRc8NCET6UqKwDerv75rrN9GkMRyJzVnxoUPpwYKlzWFGOZrljskJYl7zYzIU7YbVvVpxsfKcvisJcFh/s1600/_T165437_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1091" data-original-width="1600" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjThyphenhyphen9beho-Ws_w8_Ie8o5ncSv1B0EVhu8BFkFbpPQM_ISlfGr_s5eUFQMtY_PguRc8NCET6UqKwDerv75rrN9GkMRyJzVnxoUPpwYKlzWFGOZrljskJYl7zYzIU7YbVvVpxsfKcvisJcFh/s640/_T165437_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Back Row: Amira Abdel Koudos Fahim, Rehab Sabry Shazly, </b></span><b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">Rasha Ahmed Hany Mohamed, Hala Ahmed Mohamed Elsamman, </b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Mudira JJ, Mr. Will, Alaa Talaat Shams El-Din Mohamed, </b></span><b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">Hussein Ahmed Hussein Hofny, Mahmoud Abdel Wahab Mohamed Abdel Nour</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Front Row: Walid Elsayed Abd el-Raheem, Hazem Shared, </b></span><b style="font-family: verdana, sans-serif;">Sayed Mamdouh, Mena (Mario) Fahim Rezk</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Photographer: Yaser Mahmoud</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Watch this space to see what ensued the following morning …</span></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-1127089708602282592017-11-17T12:17:00.000-08:002017-11-17T12:17:31.650-08:00Graduation 2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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As the sun began setting, we made our way across the Nile to
the west for the last event of the field school – the graduation ceremony. We
were joined on Abu Ghalan’s boat, Isis 2, by several members of the team:
Hazem, Hassan, Yaser and his family, Owen, and Hilary, as well as the students
living on the east, Peter, Nadia, Abd el Ghany, and Shaimaa and her family.</div>
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<br />
We were met at the ferry landing by our trusty driver Mohamed,
this time needing a second car as we were so many. Arriving at Sheikh Ali, we
found that a great central table had been set up for all of our guests near the lower
terrace of the garden. This was ideal as it meant that we could take over this
space as well for the purposes of handing out the certificates. Once everyone had
arrived we began the official element of the evening, and alongside the certificates the students received a gift that Will and JJ had made for each of them, as well as the staff. From previous years’ experience we learned to do this
portion of the evening first, to finish it before food and general chaos
ensued. We invited Yaser to announce the names, with Hassan, Owen, and Hilary joining
us to congratulate each individual student and Inspector. Though this may sound
straightforward, it took a great deal of time organizing everyone to stand in the
correct places and to agree as to what each individual needed to do. But once
the first 2 or 3 recipients had passed the podium, so-to-speak, as with our
field school it slipped into an effective and efficient process, though
including a great deal of hilarity. At the end, JJ and Will presented Owen,
Hilary, Hassan, and Yaser with a mug of their own, as a way of thanking them
for their teaching, and Hassan was given a gift by the students, as a way of welcoming
him back to his Luxor home.<br />
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Following one last group photo, the official business was concluded,
so JJ shouted “let’s eat” and all and sundry returned to the central table
where the food was beginning to appear. We were so many – 11 students, 6 teachers,
2 staff, 2 inspectors, 3 wives, 1 husband, 10 children – that they had to add
an extra table for us! The restaurant staff coped with the numbers remarkably
well, culminating in a delicious BBQ of superb chicken and spiced kofta with a mezza
of salads, aish shams, rice, and potato tagine. The kofta in particular was so
good that it was consumed en masse, leading to cries of “kofta tani, kofta tani,”
though by the time more arrived the culprits had disappeared to smoke shisha in
the lower terrace, away from the women and children. Not wanting her students
to go hungry, JJ hand-delivered the plate down to them, where it was instantly
devoured. By this point the group was breaking up and re-forming, babies being
passed from one person to another, children running and playing, so that the
family groups began to dissolve and it became harder to identify which baby
belonged to which parent, a sure sign that the evening was a success and the students
and families were relaxing and enjoying themselves in true Egyptian fashion, the
love of children being the glue that holds Egypt together. Though still quite
early, low-and-behold, we looked around and we had pretty much taken over the
entire restaurant. The basbousa, Will’s favorite dessert, arrived and while the
women enjoyed the dessert at the tables, the men were so preoccupied with shisha
and laughter that they didn’t even realize it had appeared. JJ, knowing how disappointed
Will would be if he missed out, hand-delivered a plate down into the shisha den.
Abu el-Yazid, offering the plate to Will as guest of honor, was quite surprised
to watch him began to disappear back up the stairs, thinking all 3 pieces were for
him, and followed Will with cries of horror and outrage as he desperately tried
to explain that it was the serving plate! In the end, Will only got one
mouthful before Abu el-Yazid reclaimed the platter. The remainder of the evening
is something of a blur, as people mixed, chatted, and laughed, and the children
played at our feet, creating games and general havoc to their hearts content
while their parents were otherwise occupied.</div>
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Before we knew it, the first of the students was needing to
say good-bye, Sayed el-Rekaby, who would be leaving early the next morning to
return home to his family in Aswan. Abu el-Yazid, needing to collect a new
keyboard in Luxor, decided to accompany him. And that, as is so often the case
at parties, set in motion the various departures. But as you will know by now,
just as it is a time-consuming affair to say hello to our Egyptian students, it
takes even longer to say good-bye. Amongst much hugging and kissing, and a few
tears, Abu el Hagag rode away with his children on his motorcycle, and the rest
of us loaded into the minibuses, with promises to keep in touch and see each
other again next year, as cries of “sana gai, sana gai, sana gai” rang out from
bus to bus. One bus went off into the villages of Qurna, while the other headed
towards the river, dropping students off along the way, until all that remained
was the same group that had come east earlier in the evening. Yaser and his
family took one taxi, Shaimaa and her family walked, and Ayman collected the
rest of us, and all were dropped off one-by-one, until only JJ, Will, and Hazem
were left. <o:p></o:p></div>
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A wonderful end to a successful season.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-31413951267442010852017-11-16T12:07:00.000-08:002017-11-17T09:27:18.264-08:00Field School Week 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="MsoNormal">
Somehow Saturday morning we managed to arise, mostly ready
for the work day. When we were picked up we discovered we weren’t the only
ones still recovering – Saad had overslept and managed to arrive at Karnak only
later in the morning. But somehow the rest of our students made it, on time, to
the Karnak Lab to begin their final week of training with Hassan. Leaving them
in his capable hands, JJ, Will, and Marco headed back to TT 110, picking up
Hilary from Chicago House, and Owen from the west bank, along the way. It is a
photography day at TT110, with Hilary and Marco working in the tomb while Owen
worked under the tent. Hilary was experimenting with her newly developed RTI
technique, catching details of cartouches, while Marco was taking photos for creating
his 3D model of the tomb. Meanwhile Owen was creating screen-shot instructions
as a teaching aid for the students so that they could work up and revise the
models that they had begun to create on Thursday. The work was somewhat delayed
by the arrival of Dr. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Tam</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">á</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">s B</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">á</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">cs</span> and one of his graduate students, whom we had
initially seen walking up the gebel in such a deliberate manner we realized
that they could not be tourists. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Tam</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">á</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">s</span> had accepted JJ’s invitation to come and
visit before beginning his own work at the tomb of Hatshepsut’s high priest
of Amun Hapuseneb (TT67) and the adjacent TT65 of Hatshepsut’s overseer of the
granary Nebamun, but usurped in the Late Ramesside Period.
These tombs are just up the cliffside from TT110, and it was delightful to see
Tam<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 16px;">á</span>s again, and talk a bit about his work, and the work we are doing in TT110.
Because of the late start, we stayed on site until 2:30, tired but having accomplished
a great deal in terms of the photography.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFl_Peosjw1uTfQdoRs4LYVXyjJjshgtRDHuC5Qug0Pii0mJD1HXpHHbb9fsBihoMs5ihpJSPgV7S4fw81rxAtACxNn1eH0D5nf_DSWMMmqn82bIb178IhTJ165gCT9XTT5nX3NkmjbFXc/s1600/IMG_3074_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFl_Peosjw1uTfQdoRs4LYVXyjJjshgtRDHuC5Qug0Pii0mJD1HXpHHbb9fsBihoMs5ihpJSPgV7S4fw81rxAtACxNn1eH0D5nf_DSWMMmqn82bIb178IhTJ165gCT9XTT5nX3NkmjbFXc/s400/IMG_3074_crop.jpg" width="297" /></a></div>
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<b>A view from TT110 up the cliffs towards TT65 and TT67</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7ywh9kuzuOtiVD2kSLMOI9iiA2ACEeMtOSPaEU5kI9e2MXvAgJL2l39taVHAP7nhNFZXwBGFAbhf6berbpryv6rnvPESQe49VSia9N7cKh-5h6kM_S6Akj8YP69v27rTdy_G79oge_uG/s1600/IMG_3045_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1191" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr7ywh9kuzuOtiVD2kSLMOI9iiA2ACEeMtOSPaEU5kI9e2MXvAgJL2l39taVHAP7nhNFZXwBGFAbhf6berbpryv6rnvPESQe49VSia9N7cKh-5h6kM_S6Akj8YP69v27rTdy_G79oge_uG/s400/IMG_3045_crop.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZD1rwEf2tfPm7d-oJNO7nh0FBCWkqhBaZhVq8b2sTon2DD4ezK7-wouetKVLwXIIyCrQp9eeOnymZY1MsD6ccbJ9UXf72wJLDc3wgh7JgHqPGXdfTYpGGwtGMnzoQ3v6caVcXvXXxXDLi/s1600/IMG_3062_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1183" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZD1rwEf2tfPm7d-oJNO7nh0FBCWkqhBaZhVq8b2sTon2DD4ezK7-wouetKVLwXIIyCrQp9eeOnymZY1MsD6ccbJ9UXf72wJLDc3wgh7JgHqPGXdfTYpGGwtGMnzoQ3v6caVcXvXXxXDLi/s400/IMG_3062_crop.jpg" width="295" /></a><br />
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<b>Marco at work inside and outside TT110</b></div>
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In many ways Sunday was a repeat of Saturday, but with just
Hilary and Marco, as Owen had completed the instruction sheets. Hilary spent the morning finishing the detailed shots she was taking, while Marco carried on photographing for the
3D model of TT110, including the external courtyard and façade to put the tomb
in its proper topographic context within the landscape of the gebel. Will
walked him through the court, explaining what was modern, and what original so
that Marco could better visualize what the facade looked like in antiquity based
on the surviving architectural clues. Seeing as TT110 is a relatively small
tomb, JJ and Will introduced Marco to TT41, where the students had spent time
the initial week preparing their epigraphy plans, so that Marco could get a
better sense of what was possible in a subterranean Egyptian tomb. Marco was
yet again amazed as to what often lies hidden behind the rock-cut tomb facades
that he had been observing around and above TT 110. Yet another example of the
potential ancient Egyptian architecture offers for 3D modeling. By the end of
the workday, Hilary had finished her work, and Marco realized he had just the
rear room of TT110 remaining, but preferred to come back the following day to give him
time to check what he had already done in case more photos needed to be taken.
Also, our student Alaa had asked if Marco could look and see if it might be
possible to create a 3D model of his tomb. TT108, which Alaa had begun to
record at the end of our last field season, and completed between then and now.
The tomb is small and unfinished, and literally under the tent where we have
been having second breakfast, so it couldn’t be more convenient!</div>
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We had incorporated Owen, Hilary, and Marco into our working
lunches at Oasis, which has been splendid as they have been able to brief us
on their work in the tomb. They had not needed our help, expect occasionally to
hold mirrors or block out the sunlight, clearly putting us into our place as
props and accessories to the real photographic tomb action! The working day
done and dusted, we had a particular treat in store for Sunday evening, knowing
the Will’s good friend Liam McNamara, currently the Keeper of the Egyptian
Department at the Ashmolean and Director of the Griffith Institute in Oxford,
had completed a brief season at Hierakonpolis with Renee Friedman (see 2016
fieldtrip) and was passing through Luxor for one night only in order to catch
the direct Luxor-London Egypt Air flight Monday morning (the same flight we
will be taking in just a week!). The timing was so tight that he arrived at his
hotel at 6pm, just long enough to get cleaned up before we whisked him away thanks
to Ayman and his taxi, to our favorite Italian watering hole, Pizza Roma, where
we could offer him dinner and a cold beer. It was marvelous catching up as well
as comparing notes about our respective field seasons. Before we knew it, 2
hours had elapsed and it was time to deposit Liam back at his hotel, only to
find that he was planning to meet another Hierakonpolis colleague for a drink –
Xavier Droux, who was in Luxor leading a tour from the UK. Xavier left his glass
of beer being guarded at the King’s Head Pub, an old Egyptological watering
hole, to rush across the street and meet us in front of the Sonesta/St. George
hotel for a brief reunion. JJ and Will called it a night, leaving the boys to
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On Monday we went back to TT110, this time just with Marco
to finish off all of the photography in the tomb and so that he could also take
pictures for Alaa in TT108 to create for him a 3D model. Marco had finished in
TT110 by breakfast, leaving plenty of time for Alaa’s tomb, or so we thought! Our
breakfasts have become so famous, that we were joined by Ramadan and Ezz, as
well as Afaf and her Inspector, our 2015 Inspector Esmaa. It was a lovely
reunion, but led to so much chatting that we forgot that we actually had to leave
early in order to join the team at Karnak for lunch since Owen and Hilary had
agreed to come back to finish their teaching in the afternoon. Lunch proved to
be something of a special occasion in that Shaimaa and Nadia had prepared a
feast for everyone: tahina, gibna abyad, salat, minced meat béchamel, and homemade
kunifa (squares of shredded coconut and honey) for dessert. It was truly
delicious! The day was long but productive, and the students came away with a good
knowledge of the digital photography process. That evening JJ had arranged for
a dinner at Hazem’s so that the parents of a close friend, who are in Egypt on
a Nile River cruise, could experience a home cooked, traditional Egyptian meal hosted by Hazem. Over dinner we fielded many questions about archaeological life and work in Egypt,
and shared some of our favorite places to visit. Everyone enjoyed the
evening tremendously.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpNc3kcZqD_WM3Wrm3678P2tcWyeE6YVSmdKaR2e1by-uZ1HVLB1E8hdP1sZIldWP8Tq3pMdJ5ClZIMXdXyJzuS8WvkeTcZmcqkC4Wcvn8n_vlmkdkImWKhXXf0EP7H6tSmAKStmFNJ333/s1600/IMG_3089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpNc3kcZqD_WM3Wrm3678P2tcWyeE6YVSmdKaR2e1by-uZ1HVLB1E8hdP1sZIldWP8Tq3pMdJ5ClZIMXdXyJzuS8WvkeTcZmcqkC4Wcvn8n_vlmkdkImWKhXXf0EP7H6tSmAKStmFNJ333/s400/IMG_3089.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIedVwXkyu5RyxnfUi11Iqn5QfmdGZkdZAePjxgrW4yYZYVHKEmIxVu-pVv7WTiStNW_0B3HrSwIgWFgO6S1_j6rKRFLqLwrf5hxhpbx7miz7baYn-akIZFTD7_5u-vwWR1oWVXzSskVqn/s1600/IMG_3097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIedVwXkyu5RyxnfUi11Iqn5QfmdGZkdZAePjxgrW4yYZYVHKEmIxVu-pVv7WTiStNW_0B3HrSwIgWFgO6S1_j6rKRFLqLwrf5hxhpbx7miz7baYn-akIZFTD7_5u-vwWR1oWVXzSskVqn/s640/IMG_3097.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiId1TNo4PgPKvTpzEha_YavogDJ1Tkmv2SrJaRfu7aFvpPXFclNlmnuwyFEif3vtph26Tchx3GMm8hUiNNd8ko-8Z0kW8fwpkrRJEMrX-_gQIepLd4UGvOlobKHQxBarM5o07pb9jzIDTB/s1600/IMG_3108_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1222" data-original-width="1600" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiId1TNo4PgPKvTpzEha_YavogDJ1Tkmv2SrJaRfu7aFvpPXFclNlmnuwyFEif3vtph26Tchx3GMm8hUiNNd8ko-8Z0kW8fwpkrRJEMrX-_gQIepLd4UGvOlobKHQxBarM5o07pb9jzIDTB/s320/IMG_3108_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tuesday, being one of Marco’s last days in Egypt, we thought
we had better let him actually visit Karnak Temple, instead of just looking at
it from the back gate! Also, Will, JJ, and Hassan had agreed to give a lecture
for the Scientific Department Center of Karnak, led by Moamen Saad, another of
Will’s former students who is currently working on recording the Ramesside
inscriptions at Gebel Silsila and whose work we visited as part of our field
trip in 2015. The talk was meant for inspectors based in Luxor, and many from
Karnak and Luxor Temples, as well as the Sphinx Avenue project attended. At the
end of the talk, while we were receiving congratulations, we noted that Hassan
was actually being interviewed for local Luxor television. Being innately shy,
very much against his will, a media star in the making. Duty done, we had a
late breakfast of what Hazem managed to save for us from our scavenging,
locust-like students, and returned to the temple, providing Marco with a potted
history of Egypt as it related to the development of Karnak. This was
particularly pleasurable as we were seated in the shade of the hypostyle hall,
making it even more apropos. The timing proved perfect as we rounded out the
day with the Festival Hall of Thutmose III. Thanks to the morning lecture and
word spreading throughout the temple, we were giving special permission to
visit parts of the structure normally closed to the public. Celebrity does have
its perks! But our work day was not actually finished as we had an extended
staff meeting over lunch to discuss with Hazem, Sayed, Hassan and Yasser plans
for the February-March season and to finalize the decision selecting which students
would attend the new field school. Marco participated and made useful
contributions regarding the photographic and photogrammetry aspect, which he had
helped Owen and Hilary teach, and it seemed an opportune moment not only to thank
him, but also to ask if he were willing to join us again next year as an official
member of the team to continue in that role. He accepted readily, and we were
all well pleased to welcome him to the team. Our “Visiting Scholar” had become
a full-fledged team member with the new title of “Photogrammetry and 3D Creator”
(see field crew page). Marco was spared the remaining 2 hours of the meeting so
that he could go back to the hotel for a much needed nap. Karnak has that effect upon people! Finally finishing up the meeting at 6, thanks to Ayman closing
the dining room, even by our standards this was a bit ridiculous to sit down
for lunch and not leave until dinner! However, by the end we were all pleased
with the decisions we made in terms of our selections and expanding the field
school from 5 to 10 students, as well as incorporating the photographic and
digital element more firmly in the teaching structure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqSyC6RJdTHAjO9i76GYYXs81z3TljxwbP_WG7G5SSGhdTMIFsSN1SuLiVrDNRS4Yb8u2QqH0IF3ZZlNLWgjH3tVAQdOf2BzJVBmP2WfHkW47G_Ds_uBHUkG6EnJTn-w1EW3F-g7Ztlfxy/s1600/IMG_3118_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="492" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqSyC6RJdTHAjO9i76GYYXs81z3TljxwbP_WG7G5SSGhdTMIFsSN1SuLiVrDNRS4Yb8u2QqH0IF3ZZlNLWgjH3tVAQdOf2BzJVBmP2WfHkW47G_Ds_uBHUkG6EnJTn-w1EW3F-g7Ztlfxy/s640/IMG_3118_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<o:p><b>Hassan Ramadan giving his lecture on digital epigraphy </b> </o:p></div>
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By day’s end Tuesday Hassan had essentially finished his
teaching, so on Wednesday Yaser came to the Karnak Lab to give the students
some instruction in digitally inking pottery and object drawings. Leaving him
to it, JJ, Will, and Marco headed west so that JJ could finish up business with
the teftish, accompanied by Sayed and Hassan, while Will and Marco visited the
Ramesseum. We re-grouped in time to visit Sayed’s tomb in Qurnet Murai, TT 362,
an early Ramesside tomb that belonged to a high priest of Mont named Usermontu.
It had been hidden under the local homes, and only exposed after the houses
were removed and the debris cleared. As was often the case, the tomb had been
robbed from the rear via passages from other tombs, but still contained mounds
of intrusive bones and pottery from later occupation. Remarkably, the plaster
painted walls, especially in the second chamber, are still extraordinarily
well-preserved, and, by Ramesside standards, extremely beautiful. By now it was
nearly noon, and being hot, dusty, and hungry we agreed to adjourn to Sheikh
Ali for colds drinks and lunch. This was a treat for Marco, who had yet to
experience the lovely garden environment of which the west bank archaeological
community is so fond, and would not be at the graduation ceremony,
which traditionally is held in the Sheikh Ali garden. Bidding a fond farewell
we headed back to the east bank to have a rest before re-grouping for dinner. Since
it was Marco’s last night, we thought it would be an opportunity to introduce
him to Pizza Roma, which seemed an appropriate
venue for saying goodbye to our Italian compatriot. Hazem, Sayed, Hassan, and
Owen joined us, but Yaser and Hilary were unable to as they had previous engagements, so they said their goodbyes via telephone. We ended the evening by strolling
through Luxor Temple, admiring the beautifully lit reliefs and statues, and
giving Marco one last glimpse of ancient Egyptian architecture. Saying our
goodbyes as we exited the temple, Marco was dragooned by Hazem and Sayed for
one final stop for coffee and shisha at a local café. We will draw a veil over
this and hope Marco made his flight in the morning …</div>
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<b>Luxor By Night</b></div>
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Thursday marks the last day of the field school, and as is
our custom the students were evaluated for their progress over the course of
the school. This time, since Hassan did the digital epigraphy teaching, he also
evaluated the students, taking the entire morning until just after breakfast.
Once the evaluations were finished, we all returned to the lab so that Hassan
could give the students some final points about digital drawing and inking.
With final words of thanks and appreciation, a last group photo was taken in
front of Khonsu Temple in memory of our time at the lab and the completion of
the digital epigraphy course, and we walked out of the temple happy to have completed another field school, and sad to see our students go.</div>
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The graduation ceremony is tonight (Thursday evening) at the
same site as in previous years – the garden of Sheikh Ali at dusk. Students,
their families, and staff have all been invited for one last evening together,
and inevitably more photos. Tune in next week for our last hurrah.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-21131421106271499632017-11-12T07:42:00.000-08:002017-11-12T07:42:01.077-08:00Abydos Field Trip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Friday dawned at the unusually early hour of 4:30am, earlier
than even the call to prayer and the morning balloons. Will and JJ were picked
up at 5:30 by Hazem and the large mini-bus he had organized for the trip, and
the process began for retrieving each of the students from locations that Hazem
had specified the night before. The students living on the east were collected
initially, with the bus travelling in a very efficient manner to near enough
their various homes so that we never had to turn round. Yaser was our
last stop before making our way to the bridge leading across the river, which
meant we could collect all the west bank students again closer to where they
lived, picking up Abu el-Hagag last before setting off into the desert, only an
hour later from when JJ and Will were initially collected. </div>
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Our destination, as
the students now knew, was to be <b>ABYDOS</b>. There are strong connections between
the field school and Abydos in that many of the staff and students are from Sohag,
the inspectorate within which Abydos is located – Yaser, Sayed, and Abu
el-Yazid are all originally Sohagis, and there is a sense of shared identity
among them. So it was as if the field trip was commandeered by the men from Sohag,
with Abu el-Yazid giving a greeting and welcome to the non-Sohagi students
immediately upon entering the bus, and Yaser, once he’d discovered how the
microphone worked, providing a running commentary of the sites and sounds of
Sohag as we approached Abydos. Thanks to the fact that we were travelling with
our Egyptian colleagues we were able to make our way on the western desert
road, which easily took an hour off of the length of the journey had we travelled on
the Nile road. By the time any civilized person would have been getting up for
the day, we had reached Abydos, just in time for a traditional breakfast at 8:30 outside the temple at
Yaser and Abu el-Yazid’s preferred place. A long trestle table was set up, and we were packed in boulevard style as if it were Paris (without
paying extra for the view!). Food began to appear almost immediately, including
individual aluminum bowls with portions of fuul with oil, salad, gibna abyad,
aish balady, and even omelettes sizzling in their blackened earthenware
terrines, and crowning it all was the much heralded arrival of “old cheese,” meaning mish – we just can’t escape it! Hassan sent his fuul back, requesting it
be prepared with zibda (butter) and not zeit (oil). We were all rolling our
eyes, but once we tasted the result, suddenly the regular portions of fuul were
abandoned and poor Hassan was serving his share of “fuul wa zibna” with everyone,
because it was distinctly better – smoother, creamier, richer than what was
originally served. So much so that he had to order another bowl for
himself. The food vanished so quickly, the bread supply could not keep up
with the necessity of dipping, and cries of “aish, aish!” rang from each end of the
table, as the server scrambled to find enough, eventually just bringing it
direct from the bakery so that it was still warm from the oven. Several of our
greedy students burnt their fingers and lips on the bread.</div>
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Breakfast finished, chaos ensued as we gathered inspectors
and escorts to make our way into the desert to the Shunet el-Zebib, the 2nd
Dynasty funerary enclosure of Khasekhemwy, deciding to undertake the bulk of
our desert hiking in the early part of the day rather than at high noon. Yaser
led the way, with explanation provided by the local inspector, and Will’s
former student, Hazem Salah, and Abu el-Yazid gave an excellent overview in
English and Arabic with Hazem Salah providing more detail about the actual
excavations. Marco was amazed when he realized that this hulking structure of
mudbrick was in fact over 5000 years old, and the oldest surviving mudbrick
structure in the world! Suddenly he was looking at the bricks with far more
interest and respect.<br />
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The group meandered in and around the Shunet, taking
multiple photos, before heading east and re-grouping in the ruins of the Osiris
Temple dating to Ramesses III, but called locally
the “monkey temple” because of the carved images of the baboons paying homage
to the setting sun and the god Osiris. As JJ and Will explored, looking at the
remains of the Osiride statues we realized that the mudbrick remains behind the
temple were in fact the Middle Kingdom “terrace” of chapels lining the
processional route of the god Osiris and one of the most significant aspects of
the archaeology and history of Abydos, evidence of how the original landscape
was tailored around the god and the needs of his worship with individual
structures being constructed for dedicatory stelae in the Middle Kingdom.
Suddenly, like Marco, we were far more impressed with the nature of the temple
which we had initially dismissed as more Late Ramesside kitsch.<br />
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Piling back into the bus and driving along the edge of the
village, we stopped at another Ramesside Temple, that of the better known, and
much more well-preserved, Ramesses II, which Hassan Ramadan had helped prepare
as a digital epigraphy publication for Sameh Iskander and Ogden Goelet at NYU.
This temple has both the advantage and disadvantage of having lost its upper
walls and roofs, which though leaving the architecture somewhat denuded
provided wonderful light for viewing the Ramesside relief, much of which still
contains its original paint. The students spread out only to be gathered by
Hassan as he gave an excellent explanation of his work in Arabic on one of the
best preserved interior walls. Leaving Hassan to his task, JJ, Will, and Marco
explored the temple, looking at a variety of different aspects of ancient Egyptian
iconography, especially that pertaining to kingship, the Two Lands, and the
cult of Osiris. Marco photographed the monumental grano-diorite door-jamb and
lintel as an experiment for 3D modeling. Seeing as the temple was complete at
ground level, at least from the front pylon all the way to the shrines at the
back with columns and partial walls, he could see it was an ideal structure for
3D modeling, a positive indication that such similar structures in Egypt held a
great deal of potential for his PhD research.<br />
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The sounds of the mullahs
reminded us of the call to prayer, and all of our male students adjourned to
the nearby mosque with the understanding that they would rejoin us at the Seti I
temple once their prayers had finished. What we hadn’t realized was that thanks
to the fact that we had been gifted one of the inspectors from the temple of
Seti, he could provide us with access into the normally closed Osireion. So
before actually entering the temple, we (Will, JJ, Marco, Shaimaa, Nadia, and
Peter) made our way down the perilous wooden steps to the subterranean reaches
of the ancient Osireion, explaining all the while to Marco that we were
actually entering the Underworld, as conceived in architectural form by the
ancient Egyptians. By the time we had reached the bottom, we could see the
advanced guard of our students appearing on the edge of the cliff-like
surface above the Osirieon. Once they had made their way down the stairs, the
combined group entered into the covered crypt-like chamber to the east of the
Osirieon, the haunt of many bats leaving a distinctly slimy and squishy floor,
in order to view the astronomical ceiling carved onto the triangular vault.
Despite the ripe atmosphere underground, most of the group perservered and
continued to explore the chamber, with the reward being glimpses of the
more-than-lifesize figure of the sky goddess Nut on the ceiling and images of
the sun’s travel across the sky. Eventually the fumes drove all and sundry back
up to the surface and we staggered to the rear of the temple to enjoy the cool shade and fresh air while awaiting the remainder of our group to join us.
Taking advantage of the opportunity, Shaimaa organized a very thorough group
photo utilizing the sloping staircase at the back entrance to the Seti temple
to place the students one-by-one as they staggered forth from the Osireion. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Yaser joined us, just in time to be included in the photo,
as well as to take some extra shots (Yaser took the one above), utterly disbelieving that we had only just
arrived at the Seti temple and were not about to exit it. Lunch originally
being scheduled for 1pm, and seeing as it was now 12:45, lunch was put
back to 2pm to allow the students to explore the extraordinary chambers,
chapels, and hypostyle halls of the Seti temple, one of the architectural
masterpieces of ancient Egypt. We also took a moment to examine the famous
“king list,” a list of royal names starting with first, King Menes, all the way
to Seti I – 76 in total, leaving out some of those later considered anathema,
like Hatshepsut and Akhenaten. It also provided the opportunity for a photo of
the FS teachers, kindly taken by Marco. For the next hour the students wandered
happily, marveling at the detailed carving, painted scenes, and cool, inviting
interior of the temple. Marco continued utilizing the opportunity at Abydos to
take additional shots from which to create 3d models to facilitate his
research, as well as receiving an introduction into Egyptian architectural
principles from Will and JJ.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe7TgtxewjxPowATBtrwDV-eXzBXaVgM09hyphenhyphenlalUzso-7_E7QGBJk8CNeTb4Uqv5y56Tfo2WeE2GhP-lTyG70YLSnT0IXboZqkxjNjpIfcADM6gLoAMM6Z30zPJ_1zdLImenvijLvSvzW/s1600/_DSC0645_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVe7TgtxewjxPowATBtrwDV-eXzBXaVgM09hyphenhyphenlalUzso-7_E7QGBJk8CNeTb4Uqv5y56Tfo2WeE2GhP-lTyG70YLSnT0IXboZqkxjNjpIfcADM6gLoAMM6Z30zPJ_1zdLImenvijLvSvzW/s640/_DSC0645_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Field School Crew in front of the King List</b></div>
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Gathered by Hazem and Yaser we were directed back to to the
rear of the temple, retracing our steps to the Ramesses II temple, which
was the shortest route to the adjacent house across the road where we were to
have lunch. Upon passing through the door into the front room of the house, all
was laid in readiness along two lengthy tables, a testament to Hazem’s organizational
skills, As the students piled in and washed off the dust, the food, as if by
magic, begin to appear from the kitchens, and all could sit down to a welcoming,
traditional Egyptian meal of lentil soup, roasted chicken, rice, potato and
aubergine tagine, and boiled potatoes in tomato sauce. Just what the doctor
ordered after a long, hot, and dusty, though wonderful, morning of exploring
Abydos. Only slightly behind schedule, we were able to relax over the meal and
finish it off with tea, coffee, and soda, with a dessert of fresh fruit – according to Abu el-Yazid, the special “small, but effective,” Abydos bananas, which, we must say, were
particularly delectable!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Our impatient bus driver, honking noisily from outside the
door, reminded us that the day was coming to an end and we had to make our way
back upon the road towards Luxor. Not being able to immediately take the desert
road, we were provided with a military escort to the main river road. But
fortunately, thanks to the opportune intervention of Yaser and the bus driver,
we were able to back-track at first opportunity to the desert road and resume
our journey south, only adding about 45 minutes to the trip. The return journey
was raucous, to say the least, driving the girls out from the back to the front
to get farther away from the noise, until eventually the batteries in the boys
in the back of the bus ran down and an exhausted quietude took over for the
rest of journey. Finally we recognized the Qurn looming over the desert and
we realized we were home, though not yet back. The students were dropped off
one-by-one in reverse order from how we had begun the day, until eventually,
crossing the Nile to the east, JJ and Will were the last to be left on their
stoop and Hazem retreated into the distance with the massive minibus. Although
only 6:30pm and 11 hours since we had been picked up, it felt more like
midnight, and while exhausted doesn’t even begin to describe it, we were also happy,
well-fed, and pleased that the students had enjoyed such a wonderful day thanks
to Hazem, Yaser, and Abu el-Yazid, as well as the inspectors at Abydos who had
taken time on their day off to welcome us all with such generosity and
kindness.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhZemzYDz4gzQTnE-xnaDiNabWlBgJn1gg__y-IyYuy6R3gd1nBki9lkpCY4VbOwPJamJ7yq9eatx7mxrqT9_OZFpC-IvhqXCoceo3p8qRwCqQSZn99syf6owsQb09m-ENbsWswtlkEjN/s1600/%25D9%25A2%25D9%25A0%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A7%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A0%25D9%25A9_%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A7%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A3%25D9%25A3%25D9%25A4_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhZemzYDz4gzQTnE-xnaDiNabWlBgJn1gg__y-IyYuy6R3gd1nBki9lkpCY4VbOwPJamJ7yq9eatx7mxrqT9_OZFpC-IvhqXCoceo3p8qRwCqQSZn99syf6owsQb09m-ENbsWswtlkEjN/s400/%25D9%25A2%25D9%25A0%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A7%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A0%25D9%25A9_%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A7%25D9%25A1%25D9%25A3%25D9%25A3%25D9%25A4_crop.jpg" width="380" /></a></div>
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<b>Bidding farewell to the west</b></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-36986876992530964472017-11-09T10:59:00.002-08:002017-11-11T12:44:15.102-08:00Field School Week 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Well, if you haven’t guessed by now, we can inform you that Will
went as Obi Wan Kenobi and JJ went as R2D2 to the Chicago House Halloween
party. Compared to some of the costumes at the party, we were relatively
restrained! Amongst some of the guests was the god Serapis, the Wicked Witch of
the West, the horror movie doll Anabelle, the Egyptian singer Om Kalthoum, a team
of clowns, a team of 1920s flappers, and even the god of wine, Baccus amidst
the usual assortment of ghouls, ghosts, and mummies. It was a beautiful evening
under the stars and a full moon in the courtyard at Chicago House. One of the Spanish
teams contributed several vats of homemade sangria which, unsurprisingly, was
gone 2/3 of the way through the evening. It was lovely to see so many of our
Egyptological colleagues, or at least those we could recognize!<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Despite a late night, we still managed to put in a, somewhat
shortened, working day at Chicago House on Friday, and enjoyed a lunch with friends
and colleagues in the Chicago House courtyard which, amazingly, bore no signs
from the goings on of the night before. JJ restrained herself and resisted the
call of the famed Chicago House koshari in order to save her appetite for the meal
at Sayed’s home, to which we had been invited earlier in the week. Expecting to
be the only guests, we were pleasantly surprised to find both Hassan and Hazem
invited as well, so we travelled together across the Nile by moonlight. One of
those evenings when you have to pinch yourself and are reminded of the
extraordinary beauty we take for granted in Egypt.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2WhVxwxQ9cSzX2JmfGKDNrZ8je8oj7bOXKBzkyY_0Fj7TthmRsVzZUo6lGiTaXQFzMwHE5Mv6jt78FmYU31cg_S5i6nVs_-M-rBAWDZ5hfRogNYYNp3qR8Ohu4oADJBnH1hg5-ZbqXUf/s1600/IMG_2760_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="950" data-original-width="1600" height="377" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2WhVxwxQ9cSzX2JmfGKDNrZ8je8oj7bOXKBzkyY_0Fj7TthmRsVzZUo6lGiTaXQFzMwHE5Mv6jt78FmYU31cg_S5i6nVs_-M-rBAWDZ5hfRogNYYNp3qR8Ohu4oADJBnH1hg5-ZbqXUf/s640/IMG_2760_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yet again, a lavish meal was prepared by Sayed’s wife.
Seeing as we had requested no red meat, we were taken aback to realize that
option had been replaced by an entire duck, an entire roasted chicken, and a
selection of Egyptian “fried” chicken in its own “secret recipe”. Sayed's young
daughter Jena flirted outrageously with Hazem, as only a 3 and-a-half year old can do,
in light of the fact that he ate the last kofta at the last dinner he had at
their house, and she will never let him forget it! We also met the newest addition
to the family, a lovely 2<sup>nd</sup> daughter named Malak, who at only 8 months
old happily fell asleep in JJ’s arms. It was a lovely evening for everyone.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On Saturday, Hassan continued teaching the students how to
master Illustrator and the tablets at the Karnak Lab. Hazem’s uncle, Reis
Mahmoud, surprised us all with an amazing second breakfast, that rivalled what
we had been eating on the west. It also gave our worker Mostafa a better idea
of what we’d like every day!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yU-D3pO72FDUefabOqssLOreoJdMItOChyphenhyphenS6YiuWpKV8e5zN-II73xXMjVK0Gs5h3oq5ka4URkIjzrPat5JoYKpLfBfsjbRYOASATp2Us_caNux0Gv4Wia-UBv3YNH41VppDGcz-LxoV/s1600/IMG_2774.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5yU-D3pO72FDUefabOqssLOreoJdMItOChyphenhyphenS6YiuWpKV8e5zN-II73xXMjVK0Gs5h3oq5ka4URkIjzrPat5JoYKpLfBfsjbRYOASATp2Us_caNux0Gv4Wia-UBv3YNH41VppDGcz-LxoV/s320/IMG_2774.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hn2og-we9HgCgg4lSsI3NpibExO3Yo7pAeofvaqj5HsEyuCU-0pYnChBVGoMQlgWHQ9NbSbEArYPpr9ePHswgXInqhDEtqHtHVSrvdgbVVcMA9jKlzL0QgioNkqwjAkc98p6uU5otq7s/s1600/IMG_2775.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9hn2og-we9HgCgg4lSsI3NpibExO3Yo7pAeofvaqj5HsEyuCU-0pYnChBVGoMQlgWHQ9NbSbEArYPpr9ePHswgXInqhDEtqHtHVSrvdgbVVcMA9jKlzL0QgioNkqwjAkc98p6uU5otq7s/s320/IMG_2775.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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<b>The location of Karnak Lab, tucked behind the Khonsu Temple</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPIXHLeMkrGmapnZ-g2rvdXOutbmnx6_R25jBz3hS2oT84PEANBJbv48h-NNNzVxeIk9MIiYZElqZntYbIVzTMCGjATMipKCuNOZ8X6i4uElvfShYdJXkS6KZWJVKNPrdMopSKRmJ46jyZ/s1600/IMG_2953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1035" data-original-width="750" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPIXHLeMkrGmapnZ-g2rvdXOutbmnx6_R25jBz3hS2oT84PEANBJbv48h-NNNzVxeIk9MIiYZElqZntYbIVzTMCGjATMipKCuNOZ8X6i4uElvfShYdJXkS6KZWJVKNPrdMopSKRmJ46jyZ/s400/IMG_2953.jpg" width="288" /></a></div>
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<b>Reis Mahmoud and Mostafa display the breakfast spread</b></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifv7SUcLujYa9xQ9jb6F7C13ksOKoG0Elmt38MRnJOW2RXHrGVxu8UMsrPv9t2BFDybzJJxhTwukGd8rxCKqNjHnXvdNrfXiGRFbTCSIeDGpGIbZ0oO8wvEnS2qw3QZig2UZ6tJ6t7Yggh/s1600/23213219_1486932781427619_8688035546023135077_o.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifv7SUcLujYa9xQ9jb6F7C13ksOKoG0Elmt38MRnJOW2RXHrGVxu8UMsrPv9t2BFDybzJJxhTwukGd8rxCKqNjHnXvdNrfXiGRFbTCSIeDGpGIbZ0oO8wvEnS2qw3QZig2UZ6tJ6t7Yggh/s320/23213219_1486932781427619_8688035546023135077_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><b>JJ's daily reaction to Abu el-Yazid's customary </b></o:p></div>
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<o:p><b>free-association riff at morning tea</b></o:p></div>
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After breakfast, but before returning to the digital
teaching, our students Nadia and Shaimaa who had completed 4 months of training
at Chicago House as artist trainees, displayed their portfolios, including
many of their practice pieces and explained the Chicago House “method” to their
fellow students. Will confirmed that he had learned in exactly the same way
when he was working at Chicago House in the early 2000s and had very similar
practice pieces framed to put on his walls at home. As Abu el-Yazid said, “he
never expected to see fellow Egyptian colleagues succeed in mastering the
extremely difficult, but highly respected, Chicago House style of epigraphy.”
We are very proud that they just happen to be our own students!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglIIgZ3DGFG3P2_kphjzUe5TBfVLEZngZOrXiiNkp3xT25jWxbWORl27mTwMVQxrY7oLMGUDDYmKFTNA-U0Aj4xaMgcYMZMExKCGSTf8QLWOZAAx7kEyEhLmjJrZJZoad9dyauzh5rUYgW/s1600/IMG_2764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglIIgZ3DGFG3P2_kphjzUe5TBfVLEZngZOrXiiNkp3xT25jWxbWORl27mTwMVQxrY7oLMGUDDYmKFTNA-U0Aj4xaMgcYMZMExKCGSTf8QLWOZAAx7kEyEhLmjJrZJZoad9dyauzh5rUYgW/s640/IMG_2764.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Nadia and Shymaa presenting their Chicago House portfolios</b></div>
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At the end of the workday we
surprised the students with an invitation to celebrate Sayed el-Rekaby’s
birthday with drinks on the roof of the Sharm el-Sheikh coffeeshop. A place that is
fast becoming our preferred post-Karnak Lab retreat. Abu el-Yazid took over the
role of Master of Ceremonies, and praised Sayed for his recent work at
re-writing Egyptological history at Kom Ombo. Stay tuned for the official announcement,
but here’s a hint – it has to do with Hatshepsut and Thutmose III! After the
coffeeshop, Will and JJ headed off for lunch at the Oasis, where we normally
dine in solitary isolation. But on Saturday we found we were sharing the green
dining room with another diner enjoying the quietude. As we were leaving she
enquired of JJ about the location of reliable ATM machines, and in the course
of the conversation we explained something of our work, and learned that she
herself was from New York and working temporarily in the Unicef office in
Cairo. An hour later, after a fascinating and insightful conversation with the
woman, whose name we learned was Kay, we made our way home, discovering that the
later departure from Oasis meant that we had a cool evening breeze coming off
the Nile as we walked the pedestrian Corniche. It had taken us two-and-a-half years to realize that this was the preferable walk home, as opposed to the 4-lane highway we had ordinarily used. And we wondered why we did not
do this sooner!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisjntsU4UBU-n6pijwPhoFn2n2nw8Cwbpm_uWJpmtIVojE3s0ugA6OsfyDOF3y9aIAwJ_3SwTbTPSEK5FyDrrURTgGp6JJwK0iMpg1STZ-nNGFu-bkwC9ts9U2ZIZdyPQ5sEWgoE1IOtzQ/s1600/_DSC0204_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1391" data-original-width="1600" height="278" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisjntsU4UBU-n6pijwPhoFn2n2nw8Cwbpm_uWJpmtIVojE3s0ugA6OsfyDOF3y9aIAwJ_3SwTbTPSEK5FyDrrURTgGp6JJwK0iMpg1STZ-nNGFu-bkwC9ts9U2ZIZdyPQ5sEWgoE1IOtzQ/s320/_DSC0204_crop.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilG5O11SqpNTEdurweci6VHjJmrCpFxxykDqxehkbb9ZzQWII7BWQHzvhJV3R4vRoapz6XjK4NfSRQFfVdBcGweNS_-06nvHt4Grey4BUMjYs_pDptAkBtaFcOYdxw9rgPgM17D-_R1WOI/s1600/Sayed+el+Rekaby+bday_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="516" data-original-width="719" height="457" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilG5O11SqpNTEdurweci6VHjJmrCpFxxykDqxehkbb9ZzQWII7BWQHzvhJV3R4vRoapz6XjK4NfSRQFfVdBcGweNS_-06nvHt4Grey4BUMjYs_pDptAkBtaFcOYdxw9rgPgM17D-_R1WOI/s640/Sayed+el+Rekaby+bday_crop.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTqyBmEWI8p8VlNm9BCywrsnfd_YgOUtpnEx2uRZvu9mu1fhPo8ejOzMDto5_Q7Z8dCgd5Z00a6QyGGP0qkU0mNMr9CbyslzdS7NcnC3hEvHEdlooJvx0g_7eiX5Maj36UkIGBxN32akNp/s1600/Sayed+el+Rekaby+bday3_crop.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTqyBmEWI8p8VlNm9BCywrsnfd_YgOUtpnEx2uRZvu9mu1fhPo8ejOzMDto5_Q7Z8dCgd5Z00a6QyGGP0qkU0mNMr9CbyslzdS7NcnC3hEvHEdlooJvx0g_7eiX5Maj36UkIGBxN32akNp/s400/Sayed+el+Rekaby+bday3_crop.jpg" width="310" /></a></div>
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<b>Celebrating Sayed el-Rekaby's birthday with selfies</b></div>
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Sunday proceeded much as Saturday had, with Hassan teaching the
students in Arabic, while JJ had an “office workday” at the back of the lab and
Will tried to remember his Illustrator skills and master his own tablet, failing miserably at the tablet and incapable of remembering Illustrator. At the
breakfast break we were pleased to see that Mostafa had taken our request to heart
and brought a spread similar to what Hazem’s uncle had provided the previous
day. Although we love having fuul and tamayya every day, it appears our students
are not quite as fond of it when working in a darkened lab at computer screens.
Instead, they requested a “light” breakfast of fruit, bread, and cheese; tamayya
and fuul makes them too sleepy for all the concentration required for digital epigraphy (we only discovered later that Abu el-Yazid considered chicken to be fruit - so much for “light lunch”)!
During the week of planning, there was a lot of discussion about why it was
never a good idea to have to cut a variety of acetate sheet sizes from a 60”
wide roll. So, we felt it necessary to show the students exactly how easily the
acetate can be torn, and at the end of the day, before we let the students
escape, Will demonstrated the ins-and-outs of cutting the acetate used for traditional
epigraphy; how to do it properly, and how doing it badly can cause it to tear,
repeatedly. There was many a gasp of astonishment at how easily a straight edge
can turn into a complete disaster! All-in-all it was a successful working day,
which Will and JJ celebrated by going to Pizza Roma for pizza and cold beer.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuqpJe2NYG38fQnQFaFUujq3FWmleBnTdgqzzQcXmz6BcyMhYaUt9D4xLybPeMAPUsrimwVNBweUnirOf71_u8Ri-mFK_2X18n2ZeJ86vq4pGGBYk6cOoGZwTfc38ejSUbJiFXKDARw5eg/s1600/IMG_2782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuqpJe2NYG38fQnQFaFUujq3FWmleBnTdgqzzQcXmz6BcyMhYaUt9D4xLybPeMAPUsrimwVNBweUnirOf71_u8Ri-mFK_2X18n2ZeJ86vq4pGGBYk6cOoGZwTfc38ejSUbJiFXKDARw5eg/s320/IMG_2782.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>Will trying very hard to enter the 21st century</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoD1jBtAo5CiImFTH57E6zfjHp65drZTKqRp4S2pDNfBE-Bwm1NocCNJQF6Yvbih3LVa9P4myrOAFuO7dV1-HwErA3bThXOJrafWI-8v6oh9CMjmVKIHW23vvs4d9EWKiFgU_sT-KL01F/s1600/IMG_2791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1071" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwoD1jBtAo5CiImFTH57E6zfjHp65drZTKqRp4S2pDNfBE-Bwm1NocCNJQF6Yvbih3LVa9P4myrOAFuO7dV1-HwErA3bThXOJrafWI-8v6oh9CMjmVKIHW23vvs4d9EWKiFgU_sT-KL01F/s320/IMG_2791.jpg" width="214" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizBRtrw1I2KRZG7igrGffRiWeyi3xszMle64UCRIo4nw_mUD0KK5iWhBv5kYeBfWyF5fBP29iqWFbIUE6TWzjoPQ2paccdyx4KcWpLPHHaKE3Auby4pHsVY5ruYUaFUtNIfmdgonvT5PnQ/s1600/IMG_2792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><img border="0" data-original-height="998" data-original-width="1600" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizBRtrw1I2KRZG7igrGffRiWeyi3xszMle64UCRIo4nw_mUD0KK5iWhBv5kYeBfWyF5fBP29iqWFbIUE6TWzjoPQ2paccdyx4KcWpLPHHaKE3Auby4pHsVY5ruYUaFUtNIfmdgonvT5PnQ/s400/IMG_2792.jpg" width="400" /></a><b> </b></div>
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<b>Will demonstrating the difficul</b><b style="text-align: center;"><b style="text-align: left;">ties of cutting the acetate</b></b></div>
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On Monday, after coffees and teas at Karnak, Will and JJ
bade a fond farewell to their students to head back to the west and TT110. While
our students continued in Karnak Lab under Hassan’s instruction, we spent the
morning taking detailed photographs in TT110 of all the cartouches and areas of
the tomb that had been intentionally hacked. This would give Will a clear
photographic reference to accompany the notes we had made last week when he
re-worked the inked drawings back home. Mission accomplished, we ended our
workday by visiting the wonderful tomb of the Huy, the viceroy of Kush during
the reign of Tutankhamun.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA8JcVRFL_ESg29p_oteys0j953pef94G6KGj5nTPxztA9JimqtT-aHNizn3n97AQCPaeQMzZB5Geg8qrJunmgZtguMRSf4RwkWQsYAee1JJh-uJf_K1gPRbie1NDb1gpo6ZyOSTuGuFVG/s1600/IMG_2766.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA8JcVRFL_ESg29p_oteys0j953pef94G6KGj5nTPxztA9JimqtT-aHNizn3n97AQCPaeQMzZB5Geg8qrJunmgZtguMRSf4RwkWQsYAee1JJh-uJf_K1gPRbie1NDb1gpo6ZyOSTuGuFVG/s320/IMG_2766.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgultS_fzVBYc0u6JunZHsm9peTqp6qtGJI4FIY_ZwKZ_jjxbp_UYz7_NKH_WBDJSaQMjESFEs9JC03oeJZ7rBot2b35KiXhXhzK0rS1mc_cGUmQ0sLl0iFwr_lZ9FGHNxLqARwbEOrDQZK/s1600/IMG_2769.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgultS_fzVBYc0u6JunZHsm9peTqp6qtGJI4FIY_ZwKZ_jjxbp_UYz7_NKH_WBDJSaQMjESFEs9JC03oeJZ7rBot2b35KiXhXhzK0rS1mc_cGUmQ0sLl0iFwr_lZ9FGHNxLqARwbEOrDQZK/s320/IMG_2769.JPG" width="320" /></a><img alt="Image result for tomb of huy" src="http://www.ancient-origins.net/sites/default/files/styles/large/public/nubians-tomb-hury-wall.jpg?itok=Pdz41t10" height="342" width="640" /></div>
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<b>A scene from TT 40, the tomb of Tutankhamun's viceroy of Kush, Huy</b></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">(from ancient-origins.net)</span></div>
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We headed back east towards Karnak for a brief meeting over
coffees with Hazem and Sayed at the lovely Sharm el-Sheikh café, catching up on all the days events and
generally discussing how the field school is going, which, by all accounts, is
great! We ended the day by having dinner at Hazem’s sister Ahlam’s new home, along
with the entire family. Ahlam showed off not only the beautiful new apartment
that she and her husband Abdullah have, which is located just across from Hazem’s
family home, but also her cooking skills. Everyone agreed that she is quite the
cook, and Abdullah makes a mean tahini. Having had so many wonderful meals
prepared by the wives and sisters of our team, we have decided to create a “TT110
Cookbook”, with each of our students as well as our teaching team and staff,
contributing recipes. It will fit in quite nicely with Djhuty’s title as royal butler,
seeing as part of this job was overseeing the foodstuffs that came into the
palace!<o:p></o:p></div>
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On Tuesday a new member of the team joined us, having
arrived the night before from Italy, Marco Repole, a student at the university
in Florence who is here to investigate the possibilities of pursuing a PhD
research topic involving 3D modeling of ancient remains. It is his first time
in Egypt and he came into Karnak amazed to actually be arriving in a place he
had known only from photos. Every time we turned around we realized he was
heading the opposite direction taking pictures, and we had to drag him back
with promises that he would get time to properly visit and photograph the
temple, but as far as we were concerned it was just a shortcut to the lab! He
had no sooner met the students and other members of the team, and drunk his first
cup of heavily sugared Egyptian tea, before we dragged him back out of Karnak
to take the boat across the river to the west so that he could visit the tomb.
With eyes wide with wonder, Marco was amazed to find that our commute took him
the length and breadth of the Nile with vistas of Luxor and Luxor Temple to the
east and the Qurn rising, pyramid-like, over the tombs of the west. Quickly
completely the prerequisite paperwork and collecting Amany at the teftish, we
reached TT110 in time for, guess what, breakfast! Marco was introduced to yet another
Egyptian tradition, with Abu Hamada providing a mini-buffet of tamayya, fuul, batates,
sliced vegetables, and eggs, along with aish balady. As he was to find out
throughout the course of the day, we need to eat every 3-4 hours! We spent the morning
giving Marco a crash course in Egyptology 101 with TT 110 proving the ideal
time capsule to explain something of ancient Egyptian funerary beliefs,
architecture, and decoration, as well as a brief history lesson. Before we knew
it, 1pm and our car had arrived, meaning it was time for lunch. Today it was a
working lunch at the Oasis, bringing together all the disparate members of the
team, in that the last two additions, Owen Murray and Hilary McDonald, had just
arrived in Luxor. Working as freelance photographers for many projects, we had
asked them to advise our students about the use of photography in digital
epigraphy, so the meeting allowed all the older and newer members to meet and
begin to thrash out a teaching syllabus for the remaining 10 days of the
school. Ayman reorganized the furniture and set aside the entire green room as
our boardroom, allowing all 9 of us (JJ, Will, Marco, Owen, Hilary, Hassan,
Sayed, Yaser, and Hazem) to sit together and talk whilst having giant fresh
lemon drinks and eating the Oasis’s delicious food. Two-and-a-half hours later
we staggered out, fed and watered, as well as having a teaching program sorted involving
work for the students both back in the tomb and the lab.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wednesday the students continued on their merry way with
Hassan’s teaching, and we introduced Hilary and Owen to TT110. The purpose of
their visit was to sort out how best to instruct our students in “quick and
dirty” photography in order to prepare digital images for epigraphy, but they
also advised as to how to potentially photograph the tomb for additional
digital epigraphy as well as utilizing ImageJ and D-stretch enhancement, which
might allow us to include drawings of the walls that were too fragile for the
conservators from which to remove the soot and oils. After talking it all though,
and enjoying a lovely second breakfast spread thanks to, guess who, Abu Hamada,
Will and JJ spent a working morning under the tent going through applications
for next year’s field school while Hilary, Owen, and Marco returned to TT 110
take test shots using 3 different camera types – proper camera, iPhone camera,
and ordinary cell phone camera. The goal was to see what kind of rectified images
could be obtained from the three different camera types so they could better present
the possibilities to the students on Thursday. Seeing as it was Marco’s birthday
(happy 28!), and he has not been in Egypt before, we decided to treat him to
birthday drinks at the open terrace bar of the Old Winter Palace, and time it
in order to watch the sunset over the Nile. Sayed, Hassan, and Hazem all joined
us, and a lovely evening drink was had.<br />
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After drinks, Will and JJ left to have dinner with Jen Kimpton
and Keli Alberts (both from Chicago House) at The Lantern, our other favorite
Luxor restaurant. It gave us all a chance to catch up while eating wonderful British home cooking very much out of context in Luxor, which is part of its
surreal charm. Particularly the desserts – sticky toffee pudding and apple
crumble with custard. While we were indulging in a calorie binge, who knows what
the boys were getting up to. Hazem had promised at the Winter Palace to show
Marco an “Egyptian evening,” and as we left them they were discussing which
Egyptian restaurant would be the best at which to have dinner, the evening almost
certainly concluding with shisha at Om Kalthoum café in the souk. This had led
to an explanation to Marco as to who Om Kalthoum was, with everyone explaining
her role as an Egyptian cultural icon from the 40s and 50s, one of the greatest
vocalists ever produced in the Arab world. An impression sorely compromised by Hazem’s vocal
rendition of Om Kalthoum’s most famous songs!<br />
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Still digesting the night’s dinner, Will and JJ finished off
the week conducting interviews for potential students for the next year’s field
school, facilitated by Hazem and Yaser at the Luxor Museum. Yaser, acting on behalf of the Scientific Centre, represented the Ministry, as had been done in previous years by Ms. Hamsa
Dwidar and Mr. Shabaan Abdelgawad. Traditionally, we always ask the Ministry
representative as to where they would like to have lunch, and in the past it had ranged from McDonald’s to the Oasis. This year, Yaser suggested a local
Egyptian café called Om Hashem, within easy reach of the Luxor Museum. It offered
some of the best local Egyptian food, including a rare delicacy – pigeon soup! <o:p></o:p></div>
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Meanwhile the students headed west with Owen and Hilary, who
spent the day with them at TT110 giving instruction as to how to take photos that
would be suitable for digital epigraphy. Marco joined them in this process,
adding his own digital expertise and experience to the mix. By all reports it
was a successful morning, and the students came away with a solid sense of how
to use any camera available to them to take pictures that they could then use
for epigraphy purposes.<br />
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<b>Photographic training on site at TT110</b> </div>
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Rather than end the day at the tomb, the students headed
back to Karnak Lab to round out the photography instruction by learning to
create rectified images from the photos they had each taken in TT110. However,
they also apparently took a 3-hour lunch featuring an all-you-could-eat buffet of
shwarma sandwiches, a traditional Middle Eastern sandwich of chicken or lamb
that is shaved off a spit. And this after we were told that eating meat in the
middle of the day made them sleepy and unable to concentrate on their digital
epigraphy. More fool us! The lengthy lunch meant that they were working right
up until the bitter end, only leaving the temple precinct around 5, upon threat
of being locked in for the night!<br />
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Will, JJ, Hazem, and Yaser joined the students at Karnak Lab,
finishing off the day by announcing the location of the fieldtrip tomorrow (Friday).
We had managed to keep it a secret for nearly 2 weeks, and the suspense was
driving everyone crazy!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Stay tuned to find out where we went …<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-857873444526777632017-11-03T12:52:00.001-07:002017-11-03T12:52:42.083-07:00Field School Week 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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When we left off last week we were about to head to Hazem’s to
meet up with all of our students over a dinner prepared by Hazem’s mother. Like
the infamous Egyptian plague of locusts, our students descended upon the
wonderful meal spread out in traditional fashion upon the floor, and as with
locusts, within 20 minutes they had decimated nearly everything in sight,
leaving nothing but a trail of destruction and dozens of dirty plates.<br />
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<b>The before and after photos of the meal</b></div>
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Well-fed and watered the group re-assembled for the inaugural
group photos of the combined Season 1 and Season 2 field schools, newly
christened Season 3.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvi3Ic84tg_Mme968HDr62Vt5hLMnf0beNUQG2_gfkXr6smI81hZTUTtviYKUdvnlpO__grRno4T4gHEwIoTYshS_iD-bIw_MlMhfAVM2DeeKW7NPQP11XZQiYoBubuv3mZYQjh3KbrmQN/s1600/_DSC0065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1600" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvi3Ic84tg_Mme968HDr62Vt5hLMnf0beNUQG2_gfkXr6smI81hZTUTtviYKUdvnlpO__grRno4T4gHEwIoTYshS_iD-bIw_MlMhfAVM2DeeKW7NPQP11XZQiYoBubuv3mZYQjh3KbrmQN/s400/_DSC0065.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Back row: Mahmoud, Sayed, Abu el-Hagag, Peter, WIll, JJ, Alaa, Shaimaa, Nadia<br />Front row: Abd el-Ghany, Sayed el-Rekaby, Yaser (Hazem is taking the photo)</b></td></tr>
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Now down to business. The real work began with the students
converging on TT110 first thing Saturday morning. Following the renewal of the
traditional morning tea and coffee, as well as biscuits and <i>chato</i>, prepared by Abu Gomaa with Abu Hamada
assisting, we utilized the well-equipped tent to begin the instruction of the
students with a review of what each group had done at the end of the earlier
field schools. Mr. Will had created an additional 5 steps as a “prequel” to
the 5 steps of epigraphy the students had learned in the past. The new 5 steps
are designed to provide a system that the students can use to prepare their own
program of epigraphy, be it in a tomb, temple, or on a large block. Seeing as in the
initial field schools this preparation had been done for the students we
decided that we needed to give them the means to do it themselves. The remainder
of the day was spent back in TT 110 demonstrating how we had initially created
the drawing plan for the tomb back in 2014.</div>
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<b>Tea and coffee making in progress</b></div>
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<b>Teaching at the tent</b></div>
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<b>Teaching in TT 110</b></div>
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Saturday evening we met Yaser for a coffee, though JJ opted
for ice cream, so that he could bring us up-to-date about all that had happened in
his professional life over the past 18 months. He explained that he is now the
Director for the Scientific Centre for Archaeological Training and Continuing
Research (SCATCR), which the Ministry has set up as an umbrella organization to
facilitate the training of Inspectors. This is ideal
for Yaser, as he has had so much experience with this type of work. Already being downtown,
it seemed expedient to have dinner at our favorite Italian restaurant, Pizza
Roma. We were welcomed as returning family, and JJ had to apologize profusely
for not bringing Declan, as he was known and adored by everyone working in the restaurant.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sunday and Monday were spent in a larger adjacent tomb which
provided an opportunity for JJ and Will to demonstrate to the students the 5
steps of epigraphy preparation on a wall that was new to both the students and teachers.
As is always the case with our students, the 5 steps produced 15 steps of
discussion, which is no bad thing! The students were then paired off and each
pair assigned a specific wall to which they would need to apply the 5
steps. The idea of pairing them was so that they would need to work together and
share information, ask one another questions, etc., rather than coming to their
teachers for assistance. Will and JJ disappeared from the tomb when the students
weren’t looking in order to ensure that they truly worked on their own.
While the students were thrashing out their approaches Will and JJ returned to
the tent to drink cocktails out of tall iced glasses, you know, the kind with
the little umbrellas – just joking! In fact, we returned to TT 110 to thrash
out in our own way the issues of hacking and possible re-carving in the
cartouches, as well as the names and epithets of the god Amun, the one area that we
had left in some doubt at the end of the last field school, in order to
finalize the conventions necessary for publication.</div>
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Monday evening we were invited to dinner at Yaser’s home which
he made clear was at the invitation especially of his wife Manal. We realized
it was the first time we had ever visited Yaser at home, though we had met
his family previously when they made a fantasia on our boat Isis during our
previous field school. Manal made an amazing buffet of delicious foods, some of
which we had not had before in Egypt. We were re-introduced to their two children:
Mohammed who is now 6 and Tokaa who is 4. Just as we were sitting down to eat
we heard what distinctly sounded like a baby’s cry from the adjoining bedroom,
and almost immediately we realized that Manal had left the table, only tor return
with the newest addition to the family – 4 month old Lamar. Yaser in typical
fashion had forgotten to mention the birth of his third child, and second
daughter, to us! After dinner we were treated to multiple desserts, including homemade
basbousa and fruit salad with jello. Manal, seeing how Will kept surreptitiously
having seconds and thirds of the basbousa, sent a plate of the dessert home with
him. As I type this he is snacking on it!<o:p></o:p></div>
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After several days of tamayya and fuul trials, with the
students deciding as to which was the best source of breakfast, a decision was
made to bring everything from one particular place and the meal expanded into a
general buffet with many options. By Monday’s breakfast we had not only the
staples of tamayya and fuul, but also batates (french fries swimming in
oil and mixed spices), roasted beitangan (aubergine swimming in oil and mixed
spices), a variety of salads, homemade gibna abyad (white cheese) coming from Gomaa’s home, and even mish (fermented salty cheese swimming in its own slimy
secretions of putrification), a true Egyptian delicacy that all the Egyptians love.
We thought mulikhaya separated the Egyptians from non-Egyptians, but it’s
actually <o:p></o:p>mish! Apparently, word of our fabulous breakfasts had gotten
out, as on Monday we were joined by Ramadan, Ezz, and Ahmed Boghdady, resulting
in, of course, more group photos!</div>
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By Tuesday’s breakfast the students had finished planning
their walls, allowing them to begin presenting their work to Will and JJ along
with their fellow students. This continued through Wednesday, when Fathy
Yassin, the Director on the West Bank joined us for a short while to listen in.
He was quite impressed! Breakfasts, as you will have noted, have become a key
feature of our work on the west, and Wednesday’s breakfast was no different. In
honor of the arrival of Hassan Ramadan Aglan, who had reached Luxor from Berlin
late the previous night, Abu Hamada brought fatir, which is the exact opposite
of mish – a delectable Egyptian delicacy of layered sweet bread to be either
eaten with white cheese, or dipped in sweet thick molasses, a by-product of the
sugar cane refining. An Egyptian tradition both JJ and Will approve of wholeheartedly.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><b>Breakfast including Hassan Ramadan (far right)</b> </o:p></div>
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The student’s presentations were completed by the end of the
day Wednesday and the degree of informed questions and discussions elicited by
the presentations confirmed what both JJ and Will had been perceiving through
the course of the week. That the students really did understand the
complexities of planning a comprehensive drawing program for a wall, and by
extension a tomb, and they appreciated that the methodology was applicable not only
to drawing traditionally as they had already been trained, but also in organizing the photography they might rely upon in digital work. Therefore, we saw little
need to send them to other tombs for additional practice. Instead, we
felt the time could be better used on Thursday by setting up the digital component
of the program at the Karnak Lab, now that Hassan Ramadan was here. So almost before we
realized it, our week in the west had come to an end, and we would need to
shift operations to the east and Karnak. This meant transporting our tea and
coffee supplies to the east, as well as unfortunately having to say goodbye, at
least for the time being, to Abu Gomaa and Abu Hamada, who have other work on
the west.</div>
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<b>Last day for the school on the west bank</b></div>
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<b>Examples from the students' notebooks showing their planning work</b> </div>
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At the end of the work day Wednesday, the students escaped,
while JJ, Will, Sayed, Hazem, Hassan, and Yaser (who joined us after his work
day ended at the Sphinx Avenue), gathered in the much loved – by Egyptologists – garden at
Sheikh Ali’s for a working lunch primarily to discuss how to go about the
digital teaching at Karnak, what approach Hassan preferred to take, and how
best to integrate it into the teaching we had already done. Seeing as we now
had the following day, Thursday, available to set up all of our equipment at
Karnak, it would mean that Hassan could truly start teaching at the beginning
of the next week. As is so common, we were not the only Egyptologists there! We
learned that Hourig Sourouzian had arrived earlier than usual to begin her
season at Kom el-Hetan (Amenhotep III mortuary temple), and it was delightful
to see her once again.<o:p></o:p></div>
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On Thursday we met the students at the side entrance to
Karnak Temple, and discovered that Saad Bakhit will be our Inspector while we
are at the Karnak Lab. This is beneficial for all of us, as we get to spend
more time with a good friend, and Saad will have the opportunity of learning
some of the digital epigraphy from Hassan. After spending some time setting up
the lab for our teaching needs, and organizing the kitchen for teas and
coffees, Hassan made a good start in helping the students install the necessary
drawing software on their laptops as a preliminary step to learning to use
their tablets. Breakfast was had in a shady spot under the trees near the lab,
and while the food was nothing by west bank standards, our new tea man Mostafa
promises to do better next week! Hazem is guaranteed to help him raise his
game, seeing as the students have all been spoiled by Abu Gomaa and Abu Hamada.
Hassan taught until nearly 2pm, by which time the students had become familiar
with the tablets and were keen to continue the instruction on Saturday.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Will and JJ chatting in the back of the classroom</b></div>
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Thursday saw the end of the first week of teaching for the students, and the occasion of the famed Chicago House Halloween party for JJ and Will. The
afternoon was spent fine-tuning our costumes which JJ had especially brought
from the US. The only thing you need to know are the words Star Wars. The rest should be
obvious! We leave it up to you to identify who we are.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>A long time ago, in a galaxy far far away ……….</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-29771538486609392012017-10-27T06:45:00.000-07:002018-10-30T07:17:09.696-07:002017 Advanced Field School "Prep Week"<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">After nearly 18 months away from Egypt, we are back! That
is, JJ and Will, sans Declan, the latter much to the dismay of all and sundry
in Luxor. Halloween was just too important an occasion to miss, so Declan and
his brothers are home celebrating. In compensation, JJ will be back in time for
Thanksgiving.</span><br />
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<b>Declan, Shane, and Xavier in their dinosaur costumes</b></div>
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<b>JJ's pumpkin-carving expertise on display</b></div>
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In between the two holidays, we are engaged in a short, but
intense, 3-week advanced field school offered to our students from the past two
seasons. Seeing as Mr. Will is digitally impaired when it comes to epigraphy,
we have agreed to pass the teaching baton to one of his former illustration
students, Mr. Hassan Ramadan Aglan, who will be joining the TT 110 team in
addition to Hazem, Sayed, and Yaser, all of whom you will remember from
previous seasons. Hassan is currently studying for his PhD at Humboldt
University in Berlin and
has agreed to join us for two weeks of the field school. Mr. Will, on the other
hand, will focus the first week of teaching in familiarizing the students with the
process of planning an epigraphic program, whether it be using traditional
methods, as taught in our previous schools, or the digital method, to be taught
by Hassan. This season’s field school will, in a sense, book-end what we have taught
in previous years, so that the students will know how to begin an epigraphic
program, as well as publish their work.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Mr. Hassan Ramadan Aglan</b></div>
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As in previous years, JJ flew in from Philadelphia and
rendezvoused with Will at Heathrow, and from there they traveled directly to
Luxor, arriving on time but quite late on Monday the 23rd. Hazem and our driver
Ayman met us, and quickly delivered us to Dr. Betsy Bryan’s flat behind Chicago
House, where we have stayed in previous seasons. All was going so well, only to
find that the newly cut keys did not open the downstairs front door! Before we
could even panic, Hazem noticed a light on and window open from the 3rd floor
apartment of the building. And as luck would have it, it turned out to be the
window of our kindly landlady, Mrs. Fekhry, who had waited up for our arrival.
The Egyptian gods had smiled upon us! Mrs. Fekhry threw the keys down and we
were able to enter the building. Leaving unpacking to the morning, thus ended
our first few – eventful – hours in Egypt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EMwil84jvpFflGK4BEmvKibMWb7RyHsWqeRTPlfcBNgNj93_liAqXpx0jjAN7ryE14Jee0R-hOkqxFKczbTewTOEYGxPC9IQ-G1qknZmDKNFvrekdt7ZMGVqiVWUr1G8AO_6dnm8NzpW/s1600/IMG_2538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8EMwil84jvpFflGK4BEmvKibMWb7RyHsWqeRTPlfcBNgNj93_liAqXpx0jjAN7ryE14Jee0R-hOkqxFKczbTewTOEYGxPC9IQ-G1qknZmDKNFvrekdt7ZMGVqiVWUr1G8AO_6dnm8NzpW/s320/IMG_2538.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<b>Outside our apartment building at midnight</b></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Tuesday dawned much too early with a maximum of 5 hours
sleep – in bed at 2 and up at 6. Hazem insisted on an early start in order to
meet with all the necessary officials in the teftishes on the west and east
banks. It seemed as if we no sooner touched ground on the west bank, then we
were being greeted by Sayed Mamdouh, who joined us to make the requisite
courtesy calls. First it was to see the new Director of the Foreign Missions
Department, and JJ’s old friend, Ramadan, whom she has known from her time tomb
crawling 20 years ago in Luxor in preparation for her PhD. It was lovely to see
him, and congratulate him on his promotion! From Mr. Ramadan’s office we headed
to see the General Director of Antiquities on the West Bank, Fathy Yassin. No
sooner had we been seated in his office, then we were joined by former student,
and currently head of the Southern Area, Abu el-Hagag, brandishing his
1000-watt smile and hugs all around. After finishing up our paperwork, and the
first of what was to prove a long series of teas, we took our leave only to
find John Shearman just outside the teftish, thus saving us a visit to the ARCE
office to greet him.<o:p></o:p></div>
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All of our visiting and paperwork finished on the west,
seeing we’re on a roll we headed to the East Bank teftish to do it all again.
As we approached the office, we saw Dr. Ray Johnson (Chicago House) leaving who
told us to make haste because <span style="line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">Mr. Talaat Abdel-Aziz</span>,
now the <span style="line-height: 107%; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 12.0pt;">General Director of Antiquities in Upper Egypt</span>, was
still in his office, but preparing to leave. Fortunately we caught him, and
there was more tea drinking, hand shaking, and congratulations on another
friend’s and colleague’s promotion. As is so often the case in Egypt, we
learned that Yaser was literally next door working at the Avenue of the
Sphinxes, and if we were to linger over our tea he could be at the office in a
matter of minutes. Cue happy reunion!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Both west and east bank business accomplished successfully,
and Hazem, Sayed, and Yaser carrying on with the respective days, we retired to
the Oasis Palace café for lunch in the hopes that a) it would still be there,
and b) it would be unchanged. Having been away for 18 months, one can never be
sure of these things! Lo and behold, we were in luck. Not only Oasis, but also
our favorite waiter Eyman, who greeted us at door, escorted us to our
traditional table, and prepared our personalized fresh lemon drinks. While the
menu was even enlarged with yet more tempting offerings to explore, we – of course
– had what we always have. The remainder of the afternoon was spent with Will
unpacking while JJ caught up on a lost night’s sleep and after a few hours,
both were feeling much better and looking forward to the evening with Hazem’s
family.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jIAHcfIR6Ch6DCpbO-34dryhodmzZE70d1UrBXsRU40iMM-1ypUWGTCJdVG-ukkScM4NWj-8kMZtBDhoVfqMUZQnmyJ23SQ0wajrR7UVzQCjU3Nwoq-qQrCzhU-k9nFDzz8UwiHYFT9q/s1600/IMG_2514_oasis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-jIAHcfIR6Ch6DCpbO-34dryhodmzZE70d1UrBXsRU40iMM-1ypUWGTCJdVG-ukkScM4NWj-8kMZtBDhoVfqMUZQnmyJ23SQ0wajrR7UVzQCjU3Nwoq-qQrCzhU-k9nFDzz8UwiHYFT9q/s320/IMG_2514_oasis.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>The </b><b><i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Belle </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">É</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">poque </span></i></b><b>reception area of the Oasis Palace Restaurant</b></div>
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The big news as far as Hazem’s family was concerned was the
arrival of Noha’s twin boys Backat and Billel 7 months ago. Though they were
disappointed not to welcome Declan back, JJ had brought a suitcase full of
Declan’s outgrown close to pass on to Noha’s babies, so by the end of the evening
they were both dressed as mini-Declans, to the delight of everyone.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2gSRV0Kya18OWCfk_tVomKhxRvnqoaiIZF2P0WOEqQmuNtHSWkbZlPN0sEwTbIHOOiCC0ENiLMXHq8BCyKRQm4TfJyUlJehM02biS3RYyVDz4SBBjnEzc-fWQQwfABO2Z_Uwy0MfnTl3/s1600/22879255_1110710132392242_1497811964_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1334" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2gSRV0Kya18OWCfk_tVomKhxRvnqoaiIZF2P0WOEqQmuNtHSWkbZlPN0sEwTbIHOOiCC0ENiLMXHq8BCyKRQm4TfJyUlJehM02biS3RYyVDz4SBBjnEzc-fWQQwfABO2Z_Uwy0MfnTl3/s400/22879255_1110710132392242_1497811964_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Hazem's nephews Belal and Bara'a wearing Declan's hats</b><br />
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After a wonderful and filling meal prepared by Omm Hazem,
including all of our well-remembered favorite foods, the evening of surprises
continued. At the end of our last season Will was reminded of a suitcase that
he left at Chicago House over 15 years earlier, and which he then transferred
to Hazem’s unable to open it, seeing as it was locked and he didn’t have the
key with him. As fortune would have it, Will being Will, found the key back
home and remembered to bring it with him. So there was great suspense as
everyone looked on to see what would be in this time capsule. And though the key
worked perfectly, this being a Delsy suitcase, it demined a 3-digit code in
addition to the key. Desperately thinking of all significant 3-digit numbers
from his entire life, having no memory whatsoever of having set the code, Will came
to the final 3-digits of his 6-digit phone number which he has had ever since
he moved to England. By that point, everyone had become bored with the event,
and while no one was actually looking, the suitcase popped open as if by magic
to gasps of amazement all around. The suitcase was exquisitely packed and
filled with not only his clothing (which still fits!), but also a selection of
traditional Egyptian handicrafts all in pristine condition. But the crowning
glory (at least according to Will) was a much loved vintage Arsenal (Will’s
preferred UK football team) backpack circa 2000. A collector’s item if ever
there was one.<o:p></o:p></div>
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An early start on Wednesday found us heading back to the west
via our old motorboat Isis and its trusty pilot Abu Galan. We were met on the
opposite bank by our old friend and driver Abu Hamada, who has passed along the
driving duties to his nephew Mahmoud, but will join u in the work nonetheless.
Along the way to the tomb we picked up Sayed and were joined by the truck Hazem
had organized bringing all the equipment, tables, and tea making necessities to
the tomb so that we could set up the facilities for our site. As we pulled up
to the tomb, we were joyously met by Abu Gomaa, who will again work for us,
taking care of all our coffee, tea, and food needs whilst on site. Our newly
assigned Antiquities Inspector is a young woman named Amany, who seems interested
in what we are doing. We spent the morning reacquainting ourselves with TT 110,
and happily drinking tea under our tent, for which we were joined by our
colleague Afaf, who brought us tea and Nescafe – a good thing as Hazem had
forgotten to buy Nescafe for the site! Afaf saved the day, and JJ’s need for
caffeine. While we were having tea, eagle-eye Sayed spotted our returning
student Mahmoud heading along the gebel to Davies House. We waved him over, and
as with Abu el-Hagag yesterday, there were hugs and kisses all around as friendships were renewed.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4phFvTEk33pBhgPjcgDDm2_1U5fFiMbFwtX1YLZgFb328Ht1JtxedVLRMPxsrxE-y6CoOB3uZv77r1ncBqNLywYJI3Zzz1hA-APRF3d3EMEcNGY6KenDxFcVu-1SznAMMgXyxS9V9FjI/s1600/IMG_2532_dahabiyya.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="933" data-original-width="1600" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP4phFvTEk33pBhgPjcgDDm2_1U5fFiMbFwtX1YLZgFb328Ht1JtxedVLRMPxsrxE-y6CoOB3uZv77r1ncBqNLywYJI3Zzz1hA-APRF3d3EMEcNGY6KenDxFcVu-1SznAMMgXyxS9V9FjI/s400/IMG_2532_dahabiyya.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>NOT the SS Isis</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPenQZhEBfRdFvu9gm1R2paFEEdEzThupMIl1klGhjh1dvco3r4KbCIWl_ejv1LV5oC_Bp7KC3ZVSYOZRY9zJk8Ym8s71XIWfcFstCQhZPQIN_xHBChvVEMNfcJvakp0-RFjRaH-w6OjQ/s1600/22751332_2183318695027536_32880094_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1334" data-original-width="1000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHPenQZhEBfRdFvu9gm1R2paFEEdEzThupMIl1klGhjh1dvco3r4KbCIWl_ejv1LV5oC_Bp7KC3ZVSYOZRY9zJk8Ym8s71XIWfcFstCQhZPQIN_xHBChvVEMNfcJvakp0-RFjRaH-w6OjQ/s320/22751332_2183318695027536_32880094_o.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwWjd5qfM7BITXeMnQeCNuNA3Vk0PDKpAJdSCDqzo8EQX3Hsf-tt-ocBuPsbkLSeWCLkwQmMMGPz8JSyCeSqOuIiDCQhJhk_05TObGrLDdv5-DJLsUJV9OABEtEYbDbdaxsEnKwGcbzbKW/s1600/IMG_2501_site+arrival.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwWjd5qfM7BITXeMnQeCNuNA3Vk0PDKpAJdSCDqzo8EQX3Hsf-tt-ocBuPsbkLSeWCLkwQmMMGPz8JSyCeSqOuIiDCQhJhk_05TObGrLDdv5-DJLsUJV9OABEtEYbDbdaxsEnKwGcbzbKW/s320/IMG_2501_site+arrival.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b> </b></div>
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<b> </b><br />
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<b>Truck bearing site supplies and setting up the tent</b></div>
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<b> </b><b style="text-align: right;"> </b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_fm9SfR_W2kGDpROb7dyCocCHgzygAVTjPC68ENLQu1aMYqPhUC52NzRtG3aGlvpycQlzL30E1jF51OzM7e99SbOpd6lJrjvw9YPmu3i9RCFUCglwwycbl5YRlH7M_RenHVzAXmjKJbIV/s1600/22751105_1540679732636965_510123721_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="751" data-original-width="1334" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_fm9SfR_W2kGDpROb7dyCocCHgzygAVTjPC68ENLQu1aMYqPhUC52NzRtG3aGlvpycQlzL30E1jF51OzM7e99SbOpd6lJrjvw9YPmu3i9RCFUCglwwycbl5YRlH7M_RenHVzAXmjKJbIV/s640/22751105_1540679732636965_510123721_o.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Home at TT 110</b></div>
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Having accomplished so much on the west on our first day, on
Thursday we changed gears and transferred our attention to Karnak in order to
investigate the ARCE Lab and available facilities for the digital training
portion of the field school. Meeting Hazem and Sayed along the way to the
temple, once inside we were joined by our old colleague Saad el-Bakhit, who was
the Chief Excavator for ARCE’s work in the forecourt of TT 110. His excavation
concluded, he has re-joined the Antiquities Organization and is now working at
Karnak Temple. It was wonderful seeing a familiar face in an unfamiliar
location to welcome us and escort us to the lab. The teaching space of the lab
seems well-suited to our needs, and after a brief survey and discussion of how
best to organize our tables, we adjourned to a lovely café, called, of all
things, “Sharm el-Sheikh”, and located just outside the temple. There we sat
and chatted with Hazem, Sayed, and Saad, and Saad brought us up-to-date with
the details of his new position and plans for the future. Noting that the café
provided cappuccinos for future reference, we moved on to a working lunch with
Hazem at Oasis to finalize the arrangements for the beginning of the field
school on Saturday.<o:p></o:p><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDn_ZPzfyzK12TpjdQGtS6bwklcfboJiyZ68nX0_mFY0IGDbLTOlARtL_r-sWVWg4yon733jEP9IwcrF1GGchh1761kI8RmnPPyUyCB53mD26MJ4Ekebg-f819g0jnkMPyp8wmGMmPQOvn/s1600/IMG_2511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDn_ZPzfyzK12TpjdQGtS6bwklcfboJiyZ68nX0_mFY0IGDbLTOlARtL_r-sWVWg4yon733jEP9IwcrF1GGchh1761kI8RmnPPyUyCB53mD26MJ4Ekebg-f819g0jnkMPyp8wmGMmPQOvn/s640/IMG_2511.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
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<b>4 generations of epigraphers: Hazem, Sayed, Saad, and Will</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPhIdh9tBjT1QEtij4RKGF5FXtbJxR8_oMxLP-ZIwfTC1xSOy15xjhgMGe9mFka_gPrS1pcOggJAFSsG_HD49bMLy9dsgGisELUjNzA6bhxQWKSMNmdjeAxbqJR-I8gbDY8ly4u99cRlsS/s1600/IMG_2517_Oasis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPhIdh9tBjT1QEtij4RKGF5FXtbJxR8_oMxLP-ZIwfTC1xSOy15xjhgMGe9mFka_gPrS1pcOggJAFSsG_HD49bMLy9dsgGisELUjNzA6bhxQWKSMNmdjeAxbqJR-I8gbDY8ly4u99cRlsS/s400/IMG_2517_Oasis.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>Working lunch at the Oasis Palace</b></div>
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The work week complete with so much accomplished, we felt we
could celebrate by accepting the invitation from the Mexican Mission in TT 39
of Puiemra for a fiesta that evening. We had earlier met the Mexican Director
Gabriela in, of all places (ha!), the west bank teftish, where, as you know, everyone
pays a courtesy call. As you may remember from 2016, Gabriela had kindly
invited us and our students to visit their tomb, which is contemporary with TT
110. The party was lovely and we met many Mexican, Spanish, Polish, French, and
Egyptian colleagues. But the highlight by far was the opportunity to dine on
homemade Mexican cuisine, including molé!<o:p></o:p></div>
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As is our custom, we spent part of Friday at Chicago House,
enjoying the quietude of the library to make our final field school preparations, and of course, meeting our Chicago House friends
and colleagues during their delicious buffet lunch. All is in readiness for the
arrival of the students this evening for a welcome meal at Hazem’s, a chance
for everyone to catch up and renew friendships before the field school begins
Saturday morning.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMbabdG3q9jtmw7oWnoNk6WmsxigahSBDmZA-8JRFYpc3IcLSMiYjLVQwpKHN9qpQIhIyIC4-CBH3cWOV0NHuUioTTiB14lRFeNhZ_s9x3MUMYeM3G8nng8u8-BpIbrf265yhQp_Jan7zG/s1600/IMG_2526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMbabdG3q9jtmw7oWnoNk6WmsxigahSBDmZA-8JRFYpc3IcLSMiYjLVQwpKHN9qpQIhIyIC4-CBH3cWOV0NHuUioTTiB14lRFeNhZ_s9x3MUMYeM3G8nng8u8-BpIbrf265yhQp_Jan7zG/s320/IMG_2526.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>The entrance to Chicago House</b></div>
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</div>
Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-7148844840606799152016-03-26T06:18:00.000-07:002016-05-04T11:42:06.478-07:00Our Last Friday<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">Our
last Friday, and as with all the others there was no time to rest!</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">The graduation ceremony was scheduled for the
evening, with dinner in the garden of the Hotel Marsham, the same venue as last
year. Though officially meant to kick off at 5:00 pm, because of the success of
the digital session the day before it had been decided to have a “digital
working session”’ including the three assistants and Ahmed an hour before. This
meant that Mudira JJ and Mr. Will had to get their skates on to make
arrangements for the evening. Fortunately, Hazem had already booked the
restaurant and warned them about what we had planned for the graduation
ceremony. But special gifts still needed to be purchased for the students. Like
last year we intended to give the students copies of Richard Parkinson’s
informative work on the New Kingdom tomb of Nebamun. But of course leaving it
to the last minute, we learnt that the local bookshop, Aboudys, had only 3
copies. Starting the night before Hazem arranged with the shop manager to scour
all bookshops in Luxor for an additional 3 copies, for all 6 of our students. With
only minutes to spare, they arrived at Aboudys, much to our relief. Peter and
Shaimaa, as advanced students, received copies of the reprinted Prisse
d’Avennes </span><i style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: 12pt;">The Atlas of Egyptian Art</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">
edited by Maarten Raven. For Yaser, Sayed, and Hazem, Will had had a
brainstorm. Earlier in the season he had collected the last of his personal
effects from storage at Chicago House where he had worked as an artist from
2000-2003. The boxes had remained unknown to anyone but Tina de Cerbo, who
amongst her many other responsibilities is also the house manager. In one of
the boxes he found 3 carved limestone plaques which had once hung in his
studio, 2 of which were based on his own drawings of Amenhotep III from the
publication of the Temple of Merenptah. They would make perfect gifts for all
three assistants.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;">With
the afternoon spent organizing, collecting and </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">wrapping the gifts, 4:00 pm was
coming around far too soon. JJ, Declan, Will, and Hazem met Yaser and his
family and Ahmed at the ferry landing at 3:30. One last journey together with
boatman Mahmoud across the Nile. Sayed joined us at the Hotel Marsham for an
excellent session discussing the possibilities of carrying on with the digital
aspects of the inking via email and skype over the next year. Both Yaser and
Ahmed were willing to experiment using different computer programs to introduce
sun and shadow lines to the scans of the students’ work that Will would be able
to provide. It opens up exciting possibilities for the future!</span></div>
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the meeting was breaking up, the students and their families were already
arriving. Hamsa Dwidar as guest of honour agreed to announce the names of the
students in the ceremony. Our other special guest, Essam Shihab, offered to
present the diplomas. Mudira JJ and Mr. Will could sit back, so to speak, and
join in the general applause. The presentation took place on the terrace with
the Nile cultivation as an appropriate backdrop. Since this year we began
before dinner, we actually managed to finish before dark!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt;"><b>Digital Epigraphy Session</b></span></div>
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<b style="font-family: 'times new roman', serif; font-size: 16px;">Certificate & Gift Presentation</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4U9fKV741lK2r7eWvudRcDuC19RV6DzyhNXELp9xdH8Zfz8ZosT0Yi-CFEaupdQd9xU07-VsgUjsx3ndu3OHghRRUHI6dR3QfMesRQqaQiku_TL-cEuGyaS_9U1PO62mZTN4YMXtyQFRr/s1600/DSC_1415_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4U9fKV741lK2r7eWvudRcDuC19RV6DzyhNXELp9xdH8Zfz8ZosT0Yi-CFEaupdQd9xU07-VsgUjsx3ndu3OHghRRUHI6dR3QfMesRQqaQiku_TL-cEuGyaS_9U1PO62mZTN4YMXtyQFRr/s400/DSC_1415_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>From left to right: Yaser Mahmoud, Sayed Mamdouh, JJ Shirley, <br />Will Schenck, Essam Shihab, Hamsa Dwidar</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Field School Students, 2015-2016</b></td></tr>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Some Family Shots</b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Women on one side ...</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>And men on the other</b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;">The
evening was enjoyed by all, not least the children, including Declan, who
turned the Marsham’s garden into a playground. It was hard to say good bye and
the party kept breaking up and reforming as everyone seemed to find the chance
for one last conversation.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Peter with some of the children</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Ahmed's shoulder providing a pillow at the end of a long evening</b></td></tr>
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as with all things eventually we were piling into the respective minibuses
trying to determine who was taking the one to the West and who to the East.
Those who have been following this season’s website will not be in the least
surprised that amidst the general confusion was a good measure of general
rejoicing until all found themselves in a bus whether the right one or not. Abu
el Yazid was meant to be in the East bus to catch a lift to the rail station
for his journey home to Sohag. But as it turned out, he had failed to actually
pack! So plans were changed, he was dropped off at his rooms on the West Bank,
and must make his own way later to the station. Or perhaps as with the rest of
us, he couldn’t actually bring himself to say goodbye to an extraordinary field
school and an amazing group of students who had all become such good friends.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-11896930923799608332016-03-25T23:55:00.000-07:002016-05-04T11:41:52.599-07:00Field School Week 5<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After the fun but exhausting field trip to Hierakonpolis,
Mudira JJ opted to have a working day in the flat in order to prepare for the
evening’s lecture at the Mummification Museum. Meanwhile, everyone else went to
the site for a regular working day. Mr. Will was back in the tomb with the
students continuing their tomb drawings, while Yaser gave his students their
drawing exams. This involved each student being given an object that they had
to draw correctly and with all of the required information, in a limited amount
of time.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheHbnwF5B89tYHM6jLT_kXqRVCqwrpgcMoeCbnIZzG8DsnOxWE242g-rETtTvX6DaFED2tkKG7rGZDXZgfaSnFH0x0LzGlcB6o8jgWZjqzGu68H5zzfCuU9O3GeYZy0J0F_PUgAxX1nbWF/s1600/IMG_7951.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheHbnwF5B89tYHM6jLT_kXqRVCqwrpgcMoeCbnIZzG8DsnOxWE242g-rETtTvX6DaFED2tkKG7rGZDXZgfaSnFH0x0LzGlcB6o8jgWZjqzGu68H5zzfCuU9O3GeYZy0J0F_PUgAxX1nbWF/s400/IMG_7951.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Shaimaa drawing a wooden winged scarab as part of her exam</b></td></tr>
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Mudira JJ having finished her lecture prep while drinking
several pots of coffee, headed off to the usual lunch spot to wait for Mr. Will
to return from the site. She had no sooner ordered their iced lemonade drinks
than the phone rang with a frantic and barely intelligible Hazem on the other
end. The phone was quickly passed to Yaser who explained that Mr. Will had
fallen getting off the boat and they were taking him to hospital! Drink order
cancelled, JJ impatiently waited for the taxi to come and get her so she could
go to the hospital and see exactly what had happened. As it turned out,
crossing over several boats, which is the usual crazy form of embarkation, one
of the boats had decided to leave while Mr. Will was stepping from it to the
next and Ahmed was stepping from our boat onto the now moving boats. Needless
to say, Will fell between the two boats and Ahmed nearly fell into the Nile!
Unfortunately, after having decided to move the boat, the kid (yes, kid!)
decided to move it back, thereby catching Mr. Will’s leg between the two boats
and crushing it. General panic ensued, and though no evident blood, Mr. Will could
not stand. Yaser and Ahmed carried him up the gangplank and stairs to the taxi
waiting above, which had been intended to take him to lunch. Instead, it took
Mr. Will and the students to the hospital, with Ahmed following on his motorbike.
Much nervous hilarity ensued in the waiting room, as the students who return
east with us each day, Ahmed, Peter, and Shaimaa, as well as Hazem and Yaser
all joked about making a drawing of Mr. Will’s leg and how to define the
different areas of “damage”. Fortunately, despite having his leg crushed
between two boats, the x-ray and doctor exam showed that Will was basically
fine. A sore and very bruised leg, with a good-sized chunk out of his shin, but
no breaks or bone chips, Alhamudulillah! The doctor even proved to be a friend
of Peter’s – small world, which is not unusual in Egypt!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hospital trip settled, Mr. Will and Mudira JJ made their way
to a rather late lunch at Oasis and retrieved their iced lemon drinks. In all
too little time it was off to the Mummification Museum to make sure all was
ready for the lecture. Although we left plenty of time for any unforeseen problems,
we didn’t need it, as the lecture hall was perfectly prepared for the event.
Instead we spent the pre-lecture half hour greeting attendees and chatting. It
was with great pleasure that we saw a steady stream of Egyptian colleagues,
Inspectors, foreign missions, and many old familiar friends appearing, some
quite unexpectedly, so that by the time the lecture was to start the hall was
full and the atmosphere lively. After a lovely introduction by John Shearman,
Director of the ARCE Luxor Office, Mudira JJ presented the 2 seasons of work by
the Field School to the crowd. The lecture was very well received <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">and once it ended Sayed took the stage to impersonate Mudira JJ giving
the lecture. After much </span>photo taking and general rejoicing, all those still standing retired to a
local coffee shop overlooking the Luxor Temple for ice cream.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>JJ with old friend Ibrahim Soliman</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Full House</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>John Shearman introducing the lecture</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>JJ in full flow</b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLiPqozbVNS0-bgJxjdladnYtJJRxDamrKjWrs6k8PnXHPTW3tblRsmO-1tFuzOG97fBp8cqwHo3GPKHtqZCBjlXV6-jlcxMXqMEVRN6_Bzjm2mPj-y7pf_vxj2xoq5_H2GL2ioZGsA4fz/s1600/DSC_0136_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLiPqozbVNS0-bgJxjdladnYtJJRxDamrKjWrs6k8PnXHPTW3tblRsmO-1tFuzOG97fBp8cqwHo3GPKHtqZCBjlXV6-jlcxMXqMEVRN6_Bzjm2mPj-y7pf_vxj2xoq5_H2GL2ioZGsA4fz/s320/DSC_0136_cropped.JPG" width="164" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1sB-FX7yYvearAF1FIYSoCvuuHkg7NFbA_mCFTM_xqShDj5HoXzvbteqwgETIASr2OxpKkLZxXPrPJCeoP2bO-j5q7xvEvui0pPR5ZIMXK6GixFS1fuUtgRn2BR8gNSwN-OCyNINSse1/s1600/DSC_0135.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1sB-FX7yYvearAF1FIYSoCvuuHkg7NFbA_mCFTM_xqShDj5HoXzvbteqwgETIASr2OxpKkLZxXPrPJCeoP2bO-j5q7xvEvui0pPR5ZIMXK6GixFS1fuUtgRn2BR8gNSwN-OCyNINSse1/s320/DSC_0135.JPG" width="180" /></a></div>
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<b style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sayed's take on mudira JJ's talk</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwfJ5WF1-y1XODtHYpmMvrzvqjVXcU1NIg4OEvjv0RFo84Mc_7OtOpC4BjZ9VyZ0uM-uxs4h5DaGztEvX9yQ_ASOlOLBNxYFkIED_nPBBtqAT16G4eZZcsNEjD7vuUHBjm8bGnYo5FMLx/s1600/DSC_0127_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCwfJ5WF1-y1XODtHYpmMvrzvqjVXcU1NIg4OEvjv0RFo84Mc_7OtOpC4BjZ9VyZ0uM-uxs4h5DaGztEvX9yQ_ASOlOLBNxYFkIED_nPBBtqAT16G4eZZcsNEjD7vuUHBjm8bGnYo5FMLx/s400/DSC_0127_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Shimaa Montser, Lamia el Hadidy, Abu el Yazid, and Mohammed Osman</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdW80r43m4io1NbCeHhFKUG7hTsG_LOquvPJTuH3XfS5rGctfwzPOqOThBXed_LxWYRYqFWbstUjehJcYmGDaVqawDPcmwZwD_O-mEwfWooaMUO0LiFHeAnelwDMYsy5h-JQKlDBZ0k1Q/s1600/DSC_0122_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzdW80r43m4io1NbCeHhFKUG7hTsG_LOquvPJTuH3XfS5rGctfwzPOqOThBXed_LxWYRYqFWbstUjehJcYmGDaVqawDPcmwZwD_O-mEwfWooaMUO0LiFHeAnelwDMYsy5h-JQKlDBZ0k1Q/s400/DSC_0122_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Abd el Ghany, Alla Hussein, Sayed el Rekaby, Moamen, Will, and Yaser</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Peter photo bombing</b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMFj9ECf3X3gsXZk8noZnHS6Djo_AwXtil4hrPZWH0MvdDo4ChbpVD4cqMfbTzc1RM8KIkhIRTGkd_ia1PsO_1Vs0un77BMqLB5AxKDRiMwvqdiStwpFLJNtslBiior4uJBNHlGHNxvdb/s1600/IMG_8173.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMFj9ECf3X3gsXZk8noZnHS6Djo_AwXtil4hrPZWH0MvdDo4ChbpVD4cqMfbTzc1RM8KIkhIRTGkd_ia1PsO_1Vs0un77BMqLB5AxKDRiMwvqdiStwpFLJNtslBiior4uJBNHlGHNxvdb/s400/IMG_8173.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHoRDvqmd2AYAQ99hcw5LnRH0nwYWtwaRq4lfJJsYNOQit-xQ7_t89Jm0wO3Iw2KVLAvQqJC3-wWoVJBH-jR6WhXpZOe71O8t1PhM_8u14ol-qKQjP7VSAb6YTIcBAXYLVVfPNjcYHt-4/s1600/IMG_8187_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHoRDvqmd2AYAQ99hcw5LnRH0nwYWtwaRq4lfJJsYNOQit-xQ7_t89Jm0wO3Iw2KVLAvQqJC3-wWoVJBH-jR6WhXpZOe71O8t1PhM_8u14ol-qKQjP7VSAb6YTIcBAXYLVVfPNjcYHt-4/s400/IMG_8187_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Post-lecture coffee shop gathering</b></td></tr>
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Having survived the late night, it was back to the tomb on
Sunday so Yaser’s students could finish their exams and the remaining students
could spend their last day drawing in the tomb. We also had a visit from the
Mexican Mission directed by Gabriela Vértiz who is working in the nearby tomb
of Puiemre (TT39), a contemporary official of Djhuty, and a tomb which Davies
had also published, like Djuhty’s TT110. Monday the group split, with Yaser
taking his students to Chicago House so they could examine and critique
published examples of pottery and object drawings, while the other students
spent the day preparing for their tomb presentations. This gave Mr. Will,
Sayed, and Ahmed a chance to finish their drawings in the tomb, and Mudira JJ a
chance to really look at the drawings they have been working on over the course
of the Field School. She was thoroughly enjoying this when she was called out
of the tomb for “something important.”
Mild annoyance by this random interruption to the work quickly turned to
surprise when she arrived at the tent to discover Yaser and his group not at
Chicago House as she had assumed, but waiting at the tent. After chastising
them for their premature departure from the library, she was overwhelmed to
realize that the purpose of their appearance was in honor of the Egyptian Mother’s
Day and that all the students had secretly gathered in order to present her
with a gift – a beautiful bracelet. After many hugs and general rejoicing
everyone put their hands together for the customary group shot. At the end of
the work day Will’s old friend Iman Abdulfattah and her mother visited us. Iman is a Research Fellow at ARCE in Cairo, studying Mamluk architecture, and they had come to Luxor as tourists for a few days. Our colleague Antonio
Morales, currently a Lecturer in Egyptology in Berlin and working on several
Middle Kingdom tombs located around the cliff bay of Deir el-Bahari, also visited with his team. Check out
their<b> </b>Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/MiddleKingdomThebanProject/</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic9PtZn9zRYGijfyv_eaoTjj2XhbRjyvTWGata9nhbVKTdxiI4UqMEsCn5-_NNNBOMQi2sY2X1KUZrSVokNR_oDGLfkHKMqV5Bnq_Td1FolNuLsUUNhJtCccV3wFPvvr3AA81ljsGo_l_e/s1600/IMG_8169.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic9PtZn9zRYGijfyv_eaoTjj2XhbRjyvTWGata9nhbVKTdxiI4UqMEsCn5-_NNNBOMQi2sY2X1KUZrSVokNR_oDGLfkHKMqV5Bnq_Td1FolNuLsUUNhJtCccV3wFPvvr3AA81ljsGo_l_e/s400/IMG_8169.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mudira JJ explaining TT110 and Djhuty to Gabriela Vertiz and her team</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP44DjayQcKvVKqHQy5TZgRpix_0VcAhYd_uy4pTFGsqXqzPeF_DNvBDThK15-6cTBR3VKKZ6u2naYA2Fnx-zNTad5A9tyZPHILfApFP6S095RHJ381EIRKZdvLljBEbgEks7c8FabNct/s1600/IMG_8160_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqP44DjayQcKvVKqHQy5TZgRpix_0VcAhYd_uy4pTFGsqXqzPeF_DNvBDThK15-6cTBR3VKKZ6u2naYA2Fnx-zNTad5A9tyZPHILfApFP6S095RHJ381EIRKZdvLljBEbgEks7c8FabNct/s400/IMG_8160_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A Mother's Day group photo</b></td></tr>
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Tuesday the day started with a visit from our friends Keli, our Chicago House colleague, and Owen and Hillary who are photographers that have
worked in Luxor for both ARCE and Chicago House. They had friends visiting, so
it was a chance to show off our work and the tomb as we are always happy to do.
Wednesday started with a visit to the tomb of Puimre (TT39) – a quid pro quo
for the team working there having visited us on Sunday. It was wonderful to see
the students look at the walls with an epigrapher’s eye, and also quickly grasp
the similarities to TT110 in terms of “reading” how Puiemre included both
Hatshepsut and Thutmose III in his tomb. And it was a treat to see a bit of
graffiti left by Davies outside the tomb – his initials and the date he worked
there.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFegwBBDn6ghhv9iQSIDTz9zS95LTZsmchbv6Q_PvL0XLKCbKHwndOB0GNcIjS04yA4E66EXt5rC0HKC4jB-MvKrJgkDxbj0N4C04IVxLgXkNprjwW4IKpDJSmh5-vaZx0QbkljJdexS_q/s1600/IMG_8012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFegwBBDn6ghhv9iQSIDTz9zS95LTZsmchbv6Q_PvL0XLKCbKHwndOB0GNcIjS04yA4E66EXt5rC0HKC4jB-MvKrJgkDxbj0N4C04IVxLgXkNprjwW4IKpDJSmh5-vaZx0QbkljJdexS_q/s400/IMG_8012.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Gabriela Vertiz speaking with our group at Puiemre's tomb, TT39</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxLnfMtvhxCvRLrZSUrHWTXczPe09HhsInh7n6PCvlRbK96Ka-cobowZLf-bhuJ_0gBdRW0zYDaalH_eXRINYZnIE2th4SbK0T0hstsi1DGs0UI1kn5KZ2KtjNWtC_AqnmFerpMIhInuSg/s1600/DSC_1385_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="449" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxLnfMtvhxCvRLrZSUrHWTXczPe09HhsInh7n6PCvlRbK96Ka-cobowZLf-bhuJ_0gBdRW0zYDaalH_eXRINYZnIE2th4SbK0T0hstsi1DGs0UI1kn5KZ2KtjNWtC_AqnmFerpMIhInuSg/s640/DSC_1385_cropped.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Field School and Mexican Mission at TT39</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdrbuMsBh4ZoGssOtmG1CGfs_hxTRQDcScqIYJSi1LwUTajmcDndG4NYB6-5d2Tc8FH-27nmeeEBXMgx-tj3IH9Cj4FmQOl4eaVEnQKv7T6ccykIYT2ls2mfEQWurtE7WLa9P_14h006kD/s1600/IMG_8015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdrbuMsBh4ZoGssOtmG1CGfs_hxTRQDcScqIYJSi1LwUTajmcDndG4NYB6-5d2Tc8FH-27nmeeEBXMgx-tj3IH9Cj4FmQOl4eaVEnQKv7T6ccykIYT2ls2mfEQWurtE7WLa9P_14h006kD/s400/IMG_8015.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Davies Graffito: N.[D.] 19[20]</b></td></tr>
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Following the morning visits on Tuesday and Wednesday it was
back to work, with Mr. Will in the tomb for the last two drawing days with Sayed,
Yaser, Peter, Shaimaa, Hazem, and Ahmed, while Mudira JJ listened to the tomb
presentations by the rest of the students. This was the culmination of their
independent study of their assigned tombs, and it was wonderful to hear how
confidently they explained in Arabic to their colleagues what they had each
learned through their research. <o:p></o:p>After each presentation the students were given a one-on-one
evaluation by Mudira JJ, Mr. Will, and Sayed in lieu of a formal grade. At breakfast on Wednesday Abu Hamada, our West Bank driver,
treated us all to homemade fatir, a filo-like sweet bread that you dip in “black
honey” (i.e., molasses from the sugar cane). It was delicious and much appreciated
by all who got to eat it!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mahmoud giving his presentation at the tomb f Menna, TT69</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnNQD0jVxmiyS6aL8A_nRvmAobz4eknA1NXbg17u9GveF_kvDcEXD8eE9JjrNuybzzO0Lm94SB2SA89ASyDqQSlkyAk_vsTIfIsEm4BHF0jnu-YL_rUcdMIsavaiq53WgB06PA92eslJP/s1600/IMG_7995_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAnNQD0jVxmiyS6aL8A_nRvmAobz4eknA1NXbg17u9GveF_kvDcEXD8eE9JjrNuybzzO0Lm94SB2SA89ASyDqQSlkyAk_vsTIfIsEm4BHF0jnu-YL_rUcdMIsavaiq53WgB06PA92eslJP/s400/IMG_7995_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Abu el Hagag explaining details in the tomb of Nakht, TT69</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Nadia's lecture by torchlight in the tomb of Kheruef, TT192</b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7H8sK5lMbUtWNU1R0MYRvlO_6Xy-4Py9ZVZuYv27MMLO4fQfKeRMf0iKnk55HJg_5xYJgZ4w-_piWZaIzvwhiZx8pqL8IsdGk12UZVl2rWFYE9efkYHyUMQlJ7XYMPGyXqajpqkax98NJ/s1600/IMG_8041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7H8sK5lMbUtWNU1R0MYRvlO_6Xy-4Py9ZVZuYv27MMLO4fQfKeRMf0iKnk55HJg_5xYJgZ4w-_piWZaIzvwhiZx8pqL8IsdGk12UZVl2rWFYE9efkYHyUMQlJ7XYMPGyXqajpqkax98NJ/s400/IMG_8041.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Sayed pointing out the unusual carving in the tomb of Ramose, TT55</b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtKTA3hHjRNm1s1AkjGb6AG3ItHh1D2UI2Zeo6fzfh3sXnQBrD25bewD3geNhyphenhyphenyej5qzESP36CpLuuI8ahrP96L5rKdzYzAjtREJWTGl_qAs4fT_tHMDBE7MYt0TY80sqA9xwFBS-4d2g/s1600/IMG_8069_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVtKTA3hHjRNm1s1AkjGb6AG3ItHh1D2UI2Zeo6fzfh3sXnQBrD25bewD3geNhyphenhyphenyej5qzESP36CpLuuI8ahrP96L5rKdzYzAjtREJWTGl_qAs4fT_tHMDBE7MYt0TY80sqA9xwFBS-4d2g/s400/IMG_8069_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsi0-5sKLSRp4oPdScH-NMzZ1JblYenaIYl23yeUwJ_WRZQprWb100OOYs7gcbRAmpPc3yYhSc2jNoGzX1y1i_2rzoeQBpjgBfAiEfdOb9J2i0vfIWgRBdeqTrR1nbe81Y8dPFIUr458f1/s1600/IMG_8100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsi0-5sKLSRp4oPdScH-NMzZ1JblYenaIYl23yeUwJ_WRZQprWb100OOYs7gcbRAmpPc3yYhSc2jNoGzX1y1i_2rzoeQBpjgBfAiEfdOb9J2i0vfIWgRBdeqTrR1nbe81Y8dPFIUr458f1/s400/IMG_8100.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Abu el-Yazid's presentation of his research on the tombs <br />at Athribis in the ARCE roof-top tent</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>General rejoicing following Abu el-Yazid's successful evaluation</b></td></tr>
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Thursday was the last day of the field school and full of
activity. Everyone needed to clean and collate their drawings, Mr. Will and Mudira
JJ needed to sign off on them, evaluations needed to be finished, pictures
needed to be taken, the tomb packed up and locked, and all of this with a visitor
for the day! We had invited Hamsa Dwidar, who had helped us with the interviews
and since become a fast friend, to come down from Cairo and join us for the end
of the season and the certificate ceremony. So she spent the final day with us,
learning about the field school, the history of Djhuty and his tomb, and
watching the students work. Essam Shihab, the Field Director at the ARCE Luxor Office, also visited us, which was extra
special as he and Hamsa are also old friends. The official work day finally ended
at 2pm. Then it was off to a local restaurant – Mosht – located in the basement
of a garage, but which despite the location everyone swore had excellent
roasted chicken on spits. The chickens were carried in on their spits from the
roaster outside and presented on platters with rice and various side dishes.
Everyone dug in and indeed, it was delicious! The lunch was the result of a “harama”
as several of our students had failed to attend Abu Hamada’s breakfast the day
before and thus had to pay for the lunch. After lunch we went for tea, coffee
and shisha at Mahmoud’s local hangout. At the beginning of the lunch Mudira JJ,
Mr. Will, and Sayed were still finishing evaluations, with the last one finally
being given at the coffee shop. It was realized in the course of the afternoon
that with all of the work to close the tomb we had forgotten that Ahmed had
brought his computer so that he could give a tutorial in digital illustration.
So our students turned the coffee shop into a classroom with Ahmed
demonstrating various tools on the computer and Yaser discussing the digital
illustration work he had done in Photoshop. The day ended at 4:30 with a tired
but very happy Field School heading home.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvU-KoqjOq7fm4fKPsUitcr5IdPGogyt3CfV1Co37jvuYOe3KijQvkBUxTGX2x8-__tUWW7rN2ser6-Y1V9i1Du5mvyLSWlZ_ukro9LKFWI366icn5UXwnFhAl7c4pnvnoE-_Ifggl4641/s1600/IMG_8150_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvU-KoqjOq7fm4fKPsUitcr5IdPGogyt3CfV1Co37jvuYOe3KijQvkBUxTGX2x8-__tUWW7rN2ser6-Y1V9i1Du5mvyLSWlZ_ukro9LKFWI366icn5UXwnFhAl7c4pnvnoE-_Ifggl4641/s400/IMG_8150_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mr. Will demonstrating how to collate</b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqBVjBtXySNNSmdPWy3DT7YdIYwpvE7_5HOZuCEprlYOMEyWGMdPF6Hr7B9nVrADZ0yh8fUTDIw6ZRhZXYqXAy_eDQClVKjhm8xubyV3eFm02fLGYXO-7QTTf2N4a6LjmsuIrHGVFtOs0/s1600/IMG_8118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuqBVjBtXySNNSmdPWy3DT7YdIYwpvE7_5HOZuCEprlYOMEyWGMdPF6Hr7B9nVrADZ0yh8fUTDIw6ZRhZXYqXAy_eDQClVKjhm8xubyV3eFm02fLGYXO-7QTTf2N4a6LjmsuIrHGVFtOs0/s400/IMG_8118.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ6bcy7q2hV25I4SkaygpYYijZlyDZHBpTfign94irgmMt12-yqxHAtYTM5GlymYHEok0cS6rh1vmmde5sSC2exBhLHEVb_3RLQectOjqaDSe9fIsiHJlcKNchbn4MAeCcRy_hF0w3MCM/s1600/IMG_8116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ6bcy7q2hV25I4SkaygpYYijZlyDZHBpTfign94irgmMt12-yqxHAtYTM5GlymYHEok0cS6rh1vmmde5sSC2exBhLHEVb_3RLQectOjqaDSe9fIsiHJlcKNchbn4MAeCcRy_hF0w3MCM/s400/IMG_8116.JPG" width="300" /></a><o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQuNey93zdXVli9x_RgYAOpwBSOgSC_HnI1TaP_pzew6ypFKJuS8iOgZX99stE94RWq_WIcYRhDPFxuVu_TBR2lkwkEhRQZP0SEtjFy4tbayGrbDWve9pGuISC6-nurYfTQGCCDpuNUjA/s1600/IMG_8122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuQuNey93zdXVli9x_RgYAOpwBSOgSC_HnI1TaP_pzew6ypFKJuS8iOgZX99stE94RWq_WIcYRhDPFxuVu_TBR2lkwkEhRQZP0SEtjFy4tbayGrbDWve9pGuISC6-nurYfTQGCCDpuNUjA/s400/IMG_8122.JPG" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB59mc1isuhWQ75XEb75I9vDGuypctGGG-Spr0RnnH-_amm2JCss-wwNiUyZbnOk7jiIwCqz42a9H696bFUTKWmsZCk7dYnMgv7jQzI5CuxD42Iuq9q-63ValApdFYDS7QHEFqiccjKArB/s1600/IMG_8120.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB59mc1isuhWQ75XEb75I9vDGuypctGGG-Spr0RnnH-_amm2JCss-wwNiUyZbnOk7jiIwCqz42a9H696bFUTKWmsZCk7dYnMgv7jQzI5CuxD42Iuq9q-63ValApdFYDS7QHEFqiccjKArB/s400/IMG_8120.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKu6joAUyKSiisLZJPokxpotwl6PXtbk2rEqhaME4cHhVZyexRr_PaNM062yrfcrU6Pnrn-4F07-jWC61Bwes01ltC79_0Bj-hY0QVQoDzyJEN6jYxoVMLdniAYZ_r028rPDrJN7Ha54vM/s1600/IMG_8126.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKu6joAUyKSiisLZJPokxpotwl6PXtbk2rEqhaME4cHhVZyexRr_PaNM062yrfcrU6Pnrn-4F07-jWC61Bwes01ltC79_0Bj-hY0QVQoDzyJEN6jYxoVMLdniAYZ_r028rPDrJN7Ha54vM/s400/IMG_8126.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The students cleaning and collating their drawings</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy5lcZpdOYKnr5ucdObwMwFPdbPchnNSX8W5qrWDFPlDxKlvX-rfs2JUhGcKyqCDRKwxUn2zI3ilqRI4bU9y_p9HRUQPgLtaycxMK0-wH9lZCB00mQ_dFHOBGlHOAGThDmtfooJxXU8hWU/s1600/IMG_8143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy5lcZpdOYKnr5ucdObwMwFPdbPchnNSX8W5qrWDFPlDxKlvX-rfs2JUhGcKyqCDRKwxUn2zI3ilqRI4bU9y_p9HRUQPgLtaycxMK0-wH9lZCB00mQ_dFHOBGlHOAGThDmtfooJxXU8hWU/s400/IMG_8143.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Mudira JJ modeling the scarf gifted by Abu Gomaa</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpxvQZc1UnHz7JCH1Su6TERwBoubg16MZN4txStphvBR6OhM1g4bJT53I_1YauajBgcneH8XkdbAQCtRgiNZXV44lyp90PJ_PJ8XsqjRJgdCFkrXQQf76-CdVCqBwEXMrhHY3xMg6mvSP/s1600/IMG_8170.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCpxvQZc1UnHz7JCH1Su6TERwBoubg16MZN4txStphvBR6OhM1g4bJT53I_1YauajBgcneH8XkdbAQCtRgiNZXV44lyp90PJ_PJ8XsqjRJgdCFkrXQQf76-CdVCqBwEXMrhHY3xMg6mvSP/s400/IMG_8170.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Last goodbyes at the tomb</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Digital epigraphy demonstration and discussion at the coffee shop</b></td></tr>
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One final note about this last week. The late evening at the
coffee shop following the lecture kick-started a week of dinners. On Sunday,
Mr. Will and Mudira JJ met Iman and her mother for dinner. Iman had
also graciously acted as courier to bring the printed Field School certificates
for the students form the ARCE Cairo office (please don’t tell the students!).
Monday we joined Hazem and his family at their house for a lovely Mother’s Day
meal. Tuesday we had a “double dinner”, starting at 4:30 with a wonderful late
afternoon meal at a local Luxor restaurant with Essam Shihab, and followed by drinks and dessert at
Lantern with our Keli Alberts and Jen Kimpton. Wednesday we were treated to dinner
out at the Indian restaurant (one we hadn’t tried yet!) by Sayed and his
family. His daughter Jenna and Declan had fun playing together, especially
after we left the restaurant and went to a wonderful outdoor coffee shop
located within a garden. And on Thursday we had dinner with Will’s former
student Moamen Saad and his wife Shaimaa and daughter Doora, along with Abu
el-Yazid, at their flat outside Luxor. It was a lovely evening, and Declan and
Doora entertained each other, and us, all night.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Declan feeling right at home in an Egyptian tea garden</b></td></tr>
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Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4884532431854348387.post-30917607286305048222016-03-19T13:14:00.000-07:002016-05-04T11:41:25.930-07:00Hierakonpolis Field Trip<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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This Friday we were up even earlier than on a work day as it
was time for our field school fieldtrip. Last year we went to see the New
Kingdom shrines at Gebel Silsilah (see the Week 4 2015 post), but this year we
took Dr. Renee Friedman up on her offer to visit the site of Hierakonpolis, where
she has been working for many years. Although mostly known for its rich
Pre-Dynastic and Early Dynastic history, including the famous HK Tomb 100 or “painted
tomb” and the 2nd Dynasty “fort” of King Khasekhemwy, it also boasts several New
Kingdom tombs cut into the terrace of a natural sandstone outcrop and called
locally the Burg el-Hamam, or “hill of the pigeons”. While it would have been nice to see everything there,
this was a working fieldtrip, and so our goal was to focus on the New Kingdom
tombs and the epigraphy drawings done of them.</div>
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After loading up our “custom” bus with plenty of food and
drink at 6:15 am, we went to the ferry site where we met all of our students. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">By 7 am all 14 of us were</span> loaded up and on our way, on schedule. Everyone was wearing their new field school t-shirts, except, and despite explicit instructions, Yaser. But
fortunately Hazem had an extra so everyone could be outfitted in the
appropriate kit. TT110 Field School hits the road! We no sooner left the limits
of the city of Luxor than the boys in the back of the bus was demanding
breakfast, which left the girls in the front of the bus having to prepare the
sandwiches and pass the food back. Despite clear indications of gender
inequality, the girls were much more efficient at making the sandwiches and thereby
making less mess in the bus. Thereby a fed and watered happily contented field
school made its way to Hierakonpolis via the Eastern Road, crossing to the west
at the Edfu bridge. Having made such good time the boys in the back of the bus
voted to have a tea break, which meant that after passing through a colorful
market scene we all piled out of the bus and into a local balady tea shop not
far from Hierakonpolis. Other than Mudira JJ, the girls chose to stay on the bus
and be served tea & coffee by the boys, a just reward for having made them
sandwiches!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Happily fed at the back of the bus</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Tea Break</b></td></tr>
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Thanks to a clever bit of organizing by Hazem and Yaser our
bus driver had been in communication with a friend of Yaser’s who is a local
inspector and could provide explicit directions as to how to find the correct unmarked
dirt lane which led off the main road through the cultivation to the edge of
the desert. Upon approach we stopped briefly at the edge so that Mr. Will could
give an impromptu description of the local landscape, including the original city
mound of the ancient town of Nekhen and its famed Temple of Horus, none of
which is visible any longer. Fortunately, off-setting that lack the moment the
bus reached the desert edge the massive mudbrick enclosure of the “fort” came
into view and across the desert plain one could also see the Nubian-styled dig
house of the Hierakonpolis expedition. We were in touching distance of our
goal!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpY95QH_-jGh27IqKH6XLoKbMNTVDHwbEBux9jq62uC6z8CkXoBdX6EJJAmDuQtXWuO2MGOY-zmyygO6QbcB59neWm6nsaskwUQZGDYtJk9LE6sntGuwhWC9gyN-MsHXaJ5Ta_L5zIcGz/s1600/IMG_7898_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="323" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilpY95QH_-jGh27IqKH6XLoKbMNTVDHwbEBux9jq62uC6z8CkXoBdX6EJJAmDuQtXWuO2MGOY-zmyygO6QbcB59neWm6nsaskwUQZGDYtJk9LE6sntGuwhWC9gyN-MsHXaJ5Ta_L5zIcGz/s640/IMG_7898_cropped.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The 2nd Dynasty Khasekhemwy "Fort"</b></td></tr>
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Renee and her team warmly welcomed us we tea, imported
Italian coffee (!), fresh fruit, and fig cookies, and despite having just
stopped for tea, we all gladly drank more. This proved an opportunity for Renee
to bring out photocopies of the drawings Mr. Will had made of one of the tombs that
we were planning to see during our visit. This gave the students an
introduction into not only the decoration but some of the epigraphic difficulties
of the original work. After having been fed and watered, Renee joined us as we
piled back into the bus and made our way across the desert, complete with a
local inspectorate motorcycle escort, to the tombs, which could be seen
prominently on the distant horizon. After an amazingly quick journey of mere
minutes we reached the base of the hill and piled out, beginning our ascent to
the upper terrace to view the tomb of Hormose, the largest and latest of the
New Kingdom tombs, and the one which Mr. Will had drawn.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Dr. Renee Friedman welcoming the group</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Motorcade to the tombs</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_23_k63QQgzHjxm2fPluiPjqtWfTBJMUu_F_LQFmIlFZMtdfXtlWvX_fYaxAyDxbK0UXlxwhMDTEoktiyX5A-Bj65R3-adzcLxZvYLhUcUIyjQU7UCZJlbOz9RrXvQlgLsQE6mlvCDj-/s1600/DSC_1286.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-_23_k63QQgzHjxm2fPluiPjqtWfTBJMUu_F_LQFmIlFZMtdfXtlWvX_fYaxAyDxbK0UXlxwhMDTEoktiyX5A-Bj65R3-adzcLxZvYLhUcUIyjQU7UCZJlbOz9RrXvQlgLsQE6mlvCDj-/s400/DSC_1286.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Arrival at the base of the Burg el Hamam</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Walking up to the tombs</b></td></tr>
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Hormose is one of the latest decorated tombs of the New
Kingdom, dating to the reign of Ramesses XI, and was plastered and painted by
artists who were based in Thebes. The tomb had been severely damaged and
blackened over time with much of the plaster falling away. The epigraphy program
undertaken by Mr. Will thus had to tackle many of the same difficulties which
our students were finding in TT110. Mr. Will’s famed “5 steps” of epigraphy
grew out of the recording method he had developed to copy this time. AS a result
the students had a field day critiquing Mr. Will’s drawings thanks to Rene and
finding in fact blue crosses still on the wall indicating the original base
line used to measure and orient the scenes, but unfortunately, to Mr Will’s
chagrin, also examples of tape and blutack he had failed to remove over 15
years before!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Renee explaining the decoration in Hormose</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Will explaining how he drew the curved edge of the wall</b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMcGNB71WTdRLhTcEK_8DnHuA_M-A8OLqSRB-vyN_E7RH7t-m0jtktF_ut33WIWm8RzxnSB7XgMUad0YTGTUv5iooJk7XLVsICcxeDj2ZMJzuwiFR4a7vDUCwErlTMSMGG7AA5GdCN0Cd/s1600/IMG_1001_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaMcGNB71WTdRLhTcEK_8DnHuA_M-A8OLqSRB-vyN_E7RH7t-m0jtktF_ut33WIWm8RzxnSB7XgMUad0YTGTUv5iooJk7XLVsICcxeDj2ZMJzuwiFR4a7vDUCwErlTMSMGG7AA5GdCN0Cd/s400/IMG_1001_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Comparing Will's line drawings to the tomb wall</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Moving right along, the group exited Hormose and made their
way along the cliff face to a group of tombs dating to the earliest part of the
New Kingdom, the beginning of the 18th Dynasty. Whereas Hormose gave the
students insight into the recording of painted plaster, the Thutmoside tombs,
which were both carved and painted, allowed the students to see earlier examples
of sunk relief inscriptions reminiscent of the 2 stelae they have been drawing
in TT110. The students were so taken by the even smaller size of the carved
hieroglyphs that they crowded round to discuss similarities and differences
with the TT110 stelae, probably greatly relieved that what they thought had
been difficult could have been even worse.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxw4yPWi1yFlasM6sARG7aau_a7n7Gu9HknK_DE3zAqk2_yw3mFUbikO19yzURJbYORjG4vEJGWTEjPrNXFxq3baEhilcZfwuP4QRdzYr1S_b69OXW_2K7BwmB6i0ZiAjYhPZbpDygAV_N/s1600/IMG_1017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxw4yPWi1yFlasM6sARG7aau_a7n7Gu9HknK_DE3zAqk2_yw3mFUbikO19yzURJbYORjG4vEJGWTEjPrNXFxq3baEhilcZfwuP4QRdzYr1S_b69OXW_2K7BwmB6i0ZiAjYhPZbpDygAV_N/s400/IMG_1017.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Moving right along</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiaXvLm_dzfqr30ZA9MdaKWzA4OcrdmwDio99fjp6B1TRzEGU7MVdl5C0zVb9vkXOYyBEEQefNfjotSHcQlM1v7UTXyidtHu11SS2VyVxyRVdAK2JxZIdMkVdR8Ne5cgYgPyTSRkFsxzRV/s1600/IMG_7910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiaXvLm_dzfqr30ZA9MdaKWzA4OcrdmwDio99fjp6B1TRzEGU7MVdl5C0zVb9vkXOYyBEEQefNfjotSHcQlM1v7UTXyidtHu11SS2VyVxyRVdAK2JxZIdMkVdR8Ne5cgYgPyTSRkFsxzRV/s400/IMG_7910.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>One of the earliest 18th Dynasty tombs</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTV0pF04s2GOfTGwE5fnVY3ubgS7pnKc1ELcrQQpPdXSzM_IuK5zoWWUqDURPI4x1PLWA4GhXJPhx5RaB_G1n7QzlSp-N7bYoLSvnGDtwAeG7zfzB1QRI5s3bRSTl0HhafXO6A84dfTNRb/s1600/IMG_1020_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="601" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTV0pF04s2GOfTGwE5fnVY3ubgS7pnKc1ELcrQQpPdXSzM_IuK5zoWWUqDURPI4x1PLWA4GhXJPhx5RaB_G1n7QzlSp-N7bYoLSvnGDtwAeG7zfzB1QRI5s3bRSTl0HhafXO6A84dfTNRb/s320/IMG_1020_cropped.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Renee discussing the date of one of the early 18th Dynasty tombs</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4DYIM6O5TpZf5ZwhbLNZHA1H_AVtYbuytBRhHB12KoLbpd9PJ-U-EGiNL5ZqTkCgiFI7KT4kBRxTaQS4Mlcn1EZf_fST9-aYQ4s8MUA7gI3gszVgsHXGKuE7KYbqi5mkOK7rfDcDrBCf/s1600/DSC_1308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM4DYIM6O5TpZf5ZwhbLNZHA1H_AVtYbuytBRhHB12KoLbpd9PJ-U-EGiNL5ZqTkCgiFI7KT4kBRxTaQS4Mlcn1EZf_fST9-aYQ4s8MUA7gI3gszVgsHXGKuE7KYbqi5mkOK7rfDcDrBCf/s400/DSC_1308.JPG" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Shaimaa making salutations</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZxQHNh-MPDSkoSgomd2xQ35ksK53qCq2SUF_A-GivEPvMcOYan748GtFBgXwmXiI7AnaAJc421_O5-CuMN8lVz7uyoSIK4iIWc4JavFjd7_PLUJ-fklPm-MbnmxCWP7hlHMCk__SkepM/s1600/IMG_7916_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZxQHNh-MPDSkoSgomd2xQ35ksK53qCq2SUF_A-GivEPvMcOYan748GtFBgXwmXiI7AnaAJc421_O5-CuMN8lVz7uyoSIK4iIWc4JavFjd7_PLUJ-fklPm-MbnmxCWP7hlHMCk__SkepM/s400/IMG_7916_cropped.JPG" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The tomb owner and his wife making salutations to the sun</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Before the climb back down to the bus we took a short break for
the mandatory group photo, and then headed back to the dig house for our picnic
lunch after the boys had made their way back from the local village mosque for
the mid-day prayer. A veritable feast ensued within a wonderful semi-enclosed
cloister space located along one side of the dighouse courtyard. Much laughter
and general rejoicing could be heard throughout the enclosure, causing Renee
and her team to wonder at what fun they were missing. The feast culminated with
homemade cakes provided by Nadia and Shaimaa, which amazingly we all still had
room to eat. After a final round of tea and coffee generously provided by
Renee, it was back to the bus and the long road back to Luxor, this time via
the Western Desert Road. But we couldn’t leave this amazing site without a
quick “shouf” of Khasekhemwy’s “fort”, and yet another group photo. The Abydos/Sohag
members of the team, Yaser and Abu el-Yazid, began an animated discussion
comparing the fort with the Shunet el-Zebib, a massive mudbrick enclosure built
by the same king at Abydos, with Mudira JJ jumping in occasionally as she had
worked there many years ago. The discussion continued on the bus with Yaser
giving an illustrated talk of his own excavation work in a cemetery of similar
date at South Abydos. At 5pm an exhausted but contented field school group
returned to Luxor, knowing only too well that we all had to be back at work
first thing Saturday morning.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkgxQg8Xe5kiWwyt1n9kRfBYb0zp-xsqQrcj3J2UTCWeAosHgiHdKiLPTvdajfG_YnWaMVU5nwFHhPkClU9HbUIZ5SnXWkcHB6dQC9UW23bZBd8Mw9Ys0wOGTCdMTga7jGUb2P7KdAITu/s1600/DSC_1304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkgxQg8Xe5kiWwyt1n9kRfBYb0zp-xsqQrcj3J2UTCWeAosHgiHdKiLPTvdajfG_YnWaMVU5nwFHhPkClU9HbUIZ5SnXWkcHB6dQC9UW23bZBd8Mw9Ys0wOGTCdMTga7jGUb2P7KdAITu/s640/DSC_1304.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>The field school team in front of the New Kingdom tombs</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocuD8QPlkBbdCs7dcPRpYePMi8AsxLndiPv0T_Vdn-b6xxUIshlDX7yj5UCFVuRvfxmpRH9cG5GabJ2aEG8oZUBLkoaDXsbeOc1a_XL0z7pAo6tyWVVHf0P1WXynyDzqjrmgOK7MSZq54/s1600/IMG_1058_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiocuD8QPlkBbdCs7dcPRpYePMi8AsxLndiPv0T_Vdn-b6xxUIshlDX7yj5UCFVuRvfxmpRH9cG5GabJ2aEG8oZUBLkoaDXsbeOc1a_XL0z7pAo6tyWVVHf0P1WXynyDzqjrmgOK7MSZq54/s400/IMG_1058_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Heading back to the bus</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJK8bwlQZUbK5T8oNseqVnvs4hNy0yN_vHRvHHQE8FN_6c4pauIe0uSwfcLRmFY6jnMn25vUhDJjjTSf6nyHzeILVNKtgIUTh-HHP-j7_EGYC3aW12-5L97jnQbdrRcw1tQ_Z1ujKsRpqs/s1600/IMG_7925_cropped.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJK8bwlQZUbK5T8oNseqVnvs4hNy0yN_vHRvHHQE8FN_6c4pauIe0uSwfcLRmFY6jnMn25vUhDJjjTSf6nyHzeILVNKtgIUTh-HHP-j7_EGYC3aW12-5L97jnQbdrRcw1tQ_Z1ujKsRpqs/s400/IMG_7925_cropped.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>At the Khasekhemwy "fort"</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHwQDRgXMrMkASEqocbHtMI6jFienOxI5yqRv-yznAIA-rsMAczdt_PAxQvbGkz66Isz8qyF32Xrmc4T4EwHdP1sfSadkpMllqc_rfVjtTHOxaxDANjTTq9R3iSLI-zMm3pQjLjvOqkxiw/s1600/IMG_7932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHwQDRgXMrMkASEqocbHtMI6jFienOxI5yqRv-yznAIA-rsMAczdt_PAxQvbGkz66Isz8qyF32Xrmc4T4EwHdP1sfSadkpMllqc_rfVjtTHOxaxDANjTTq9R3iSLI-zMm3pQjLjvOqkxiw/s400/IMG_7932.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Yaser lecturing on the bus</b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Having survived the first day of our marathon, check back to
see what happens next!<o:p></o:p></div>
</div>
Dr. JJ Shirleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14744379165339462818noreply@blogger.com